Pura Lingsar Temple in Lombok
20 Lombok’s Senggigi Beach
21 Taman Narmada Gardens, Lombok
Making the Most of Your Visit
You obviously know the limits of your time and budget, but we can help you choose a base. Bali and Lombok are compact, so while it is possible to day trip from one place to another, traffic, poor roads, and mountainous terrain will seriously affect traveling times. While finding a quiet, remote base with few tourists sounds tempting, hotels will have cold water and, maybe, squat toilets; menus may be limited to only rice and noodles; and you’ll probably need to rely on jam-packed public transport. Buses and mini-vans called bemo cater exclusively for locals, so they travel to non-tourist hubs like Denpasar and Gianyar, while services are, for example, poor in Ubud and non-existent for Kuta. So, base yourself in locations that have the wide range of facilities you want, the sort of transport you need, and the type of places you wish to visit.
Bali: The overwhelming majority of people base themselves near the southern beaches or Ubud, which means that vast areas, including tourist centers along the east and north coast and the smaller islands, are comparatively quiet; even more so during the low season. If you’re mostly interested in shopping, surfing and clubbing, Kuta is popular, although its claustrophobic lanes and traffic-clogged roads may not appeal to kids and mature-aged visitors. For what Kuta has to offer, but with more space and fewer people, head to the adjacent beaches of Tuban (also known as South Kuta) and Legian, or to Seminyak for a little more sophistication.
Sanur has no waves–and, therefore, no surfers–and limited nightlife, but certainly has more than enough tourist facilities to satisfy most, and it is the departure point for the charming island of Nusa Lembongan. Further around the southern peninsula is Nusa Dua, a gated zone of four- and five-star resorts where guests rarely want (or need) to venture far from their vast hotel complexes. To the north, Tanjung Benoa is a more affordable version of Nusa Dua and the center for water sports.
Ubud is the undoubted cultural and spiritual heartland of Bali and also geographically convenient for day trips to the beaches in the south and east, and the numerous temples, villages, lakes, and volcanoes of central Bali. Also, Ubud is cooler and cheaper than the southern resorts. The east coast, which is increasingly popular as it becomes more accessible, offers quiet beaches, un-touristy villages, and revered temples. The major east coast bases are Padangbai, a jumping off point for speedboats to the Gili Islands and ferries to Lombok, but also a charming village in itself; and Candidasa, which is a beach resort without much beach. Further along the east coast, Amed is an extended collection of laidback fishing villages with rocky, gray beaches unsuitable for swimming, but excellent for underwater exploration. Similarly, along the northern coast, Lovina is spread over many kilometers, and while the beaches are unattractive many love the village atmosphere and numerous attractions nearby.
Lombok: Facilities across the strait in the tourist centers of Senggigi, the Gili Islands, and Lombok’s own Kuta beach are as good (but not as numerous) as Bali, but the range of transport, hotels, and restaurants is far more limited elsewhere and often caters for Indonesians, not western tourists. Senggigi is a perfect base: a likable beach resort close enough to explore western Lombok. Many zip across to the Gilis from Bali and never set foot on Lombok, which is a shame. Adorable and astoundingly undeveloped, Kuta is an increasingly popular holiday destination and base from which to discover the rugged southern coast.
1 Tanah Lot Temple Sunset, cliff-top dining, temples and… touristy crowds
Tanah Lot is unquestionably one of the most visited places on Bali—by tourists for its dramatic setting, and by Hindus as one of six revered, cardinal temples. Built some 500 years ago by a Javanese priest and dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea, Tanah Lot seems more dedicated these days to the God of Souvenir Stalls. But it’s all about the location, especially at sunset; the temple itself is 100m (320ft) offshore and only accessible to Hindus, and unreachable by anyone at high tide. The cliff-side path to the north passes the Pura Enjung Galuh temple (behind which are the best views of Tanah Lot), then some steps down to a wave-swept beach, and later to Pura Batu Bolong temple perched atop another rocky headland. Continuing to a clearing where a spectacular Kecak dance is held every evening after sunset (6.30pm; 45 mins), the path finishes at the recommended Melasti Tanah Lot restaurant (see page 82). The path south of Tanah Lot weaves through a handful of eateries (set up for sunset drinks and meals, but open all day) and ends at the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort and golf course, controversially built higher than the temple. To avoid the hordes, come during the day; in fact, before 9am you may have the whole complex to yourself. Visiting during the day allows you more time to admire impressive padi fields along the way and detour to rugged beaches such as Pantai Seseh. Traveling with your own transport is not recommended: roads are poorly-signed and traffic is reminiscent of a football final. Join an organized tour or take a taxi (which will wait).
Times Daily 7am–7pm Dress As you wish (you can’t enter) Getting There From Seminyak, turn left to “Canggu/Tabanan” and follow the signs. Public transport from Denpasar is limited and not available after sunset. Tip Inside the complex are two mid-priced hotels, while Astiti Graha homestay is 500m (546yds) before the entrance Also nearby Taman Ayun temple at Mengwi
2 Lake Bratan, Bedugul Highlands Speedboats and seafood; tourism Indonesian-style
One of Bali’s most underrated attractions, the gorgeous volcanic lake of Danau Bratan (Beratan) is incredibly popular with Indonesian tourists but surprisingly ignored by foreigners. While many understandably visit the striking Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple, there’s much more to see and do at the southern edge of the lake. Taman Rekreasi Bedugul (Bedugul Recreation Park) is one of the best places on Bali for water sports such as canoes, banana boating, parasailing, and jet-skiing—and without the waves and high prices found along the southern beaches. The obligatory souvenir shops sell different brands of tacky stuff to Kuta, and at fixed prices designed for Indonesian (not western) tourists; and just as mandatory is the tiny temple (closed) at the western end surrounded by pesky monkeys. A walking path which starts opposite the fruit stalls skirts the lake and heads along a ridge to the top of Mount Mangu (2,020m/6,627ft), a six hour return hike. Opposite the turn-off to the park, The Strawberry Hill Resort (0368-21265) can arrange guides for hikes to nearby waterfalls and vanilla plantations, and around Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. Most visitors to Bedugul take a 15 minute whirl around the lake on a speedboat passing upmarket villas, farms growing an unpalatable combination of strawberries and garlic and, of course, that famous temple. Then they settle down to lunch at the restaurant (see page 83) overlooking the lake and under the towering volcanoes. But what makes Bedugul really special is that it caters exclusively for Indonesian tourists, so on weekends and public holidays the place is packed and perfect for watching Indonesians enjoying themselves—a great spectacle itself; while at other times the lake and park are eerily empty.
Times Daily 9am-8pm Address Turn-off is 1km (0.62 miles) down from Candikuning, then another 300m (328yds) to the entrance Getting There Public transport between Denpasar and Lovina; or shuttle bus between the southern beaches and Lovina Also nearby Jatiluwih rice terraces
3 Jimbaran Beach Seafood Dinner
Sunset, candles, fireworks, and serenading buskers
Despite its magnificent beach and proximity to Kuta and the airport, Jimbaran remains surprisingly undeveloped. This relative
