area of lush forest, more formally known as Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, is perched at the bottom end of a busy shopping street. It’s home to hundreds of cute but recalcitrant Balinese Macaques, which are tolerated, and even revered, as descendants of the monkey god Hanoman who saved the wife of King Rama (as told in the Ramayana epic). But beware: they can be menacing if they think you’re carrying anything curved or yellow. Tickets to the sanctuary include a useful map with locations and explanations of the three temples, each originally built in the 14th century. They are not, however, accessible to non-Hindus, but small enough to admire from the outside. One path leads up to Pura Prajapati temple, used for cremations and burials by the Padangtegal village nearby, and flanked by a leafy field of headstones. Another path heads to Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, the “death temple” used by the same villagers for ceremonies. And a third walkway goes over a medieval-looking stone bridge—seemingly held together by roots of banyan trees like a scene from The Lord of the Rings movie—to the Holy Bathing Temple. Also worth a look is the Community Art Exhibition under the bale pavilion, and check at the ticket offices about events and performances at the brand new amphitheater. Noteworthy for being well managed by the local community, the forest is also home to 115 species of rare plants used for religious and medicinal purposes. The main entrance is at the end of the road named after the sanctuary. Another gate, 200m (218yds) further east, is connected by a path (800m/874yds) to a third entrance that leads to the charming village of Nyuhkuning.
Times Daily 8.30am–6pm Address Monkey Forest Road (Jalan Wanara Wana) Dress As you wish; no sarong/sash needed Getting There By foot from Ubud; on organized tours from elsewhere Tip Quieter with less hyper-active monkeys before 10am Add in Shopping along Jalan Hanoman and lunch in Nyuhkuning
12 Gunung Kawi Rock Temples Majestic shrines chiselled into a solid stone cliff face
Gunung Kawi has it all: massive rock sculptures, gushing streams, lush rice-terraces, caves dripping with water, and a riverside temple. And steep steps. Lots of them. More than 250, in fact. If you don’t make it all the way down, only 40 or 50 steps will lead you to exquisite views of padi fields flanking the Pakrisan River under the shadow of the mighty Gunung Agung mountain. The steps do eventually end at The Royal Monuments, four massive façades shaped like temples and somehow carved into 7-meter (23-ft) high niches within a cliff. They may have been built as a memorial for King Airlangga, a powerful Javanese king, some 1,000 years ago, but no one really knows for sure. Across a quaint bridge, Pura Tirta Gunung Kawi temple is dedicated to the all-important Goddess of Rice. At the back of the pond crammed with fish are five more royal tombs built directly opposite the ravine from the other four. Walking paths behind the temple lead to storage and cooking sheds, and then continue to a shrine facing a mossy cliff, a series of watery caves (once part of a monastery) and the best views of the whole complex. But before you explore the area too much further: remember all those steps on the way back! Then you can reward yourself at Kafe Kawi, a delightful restaurant only 10 steps down from the main entrance, which offers a varied menu, including healthy breakfasts (from 9am) and, of course, more superb views.
Time Daily 7am–6pm Address 200m (218yds) from the main road through Tampaksiring Dress As you wish; sash/sarong included in entrance fee Getting There On many organized tours. From Ubud, bemo towards Gianyar, get off at the junction in Bedulu, then catch another to Tampaksiring. Ojek available at the site. Tips Better photos and fewer people before 9am. This shouldn’t be confused with Gunung Kawi in nearby Sebatu, which is also worth visiting (see page 46). Also nearby Walk up to Tirta Empul, or visit the other Gunung Kawi at Sebatu
13 Banjar Village, North Bali Hot springs and Bali’s only Buddhist monastery
Nestled in the foothills near Lovina, Banjar has a plethora of temples and a busy produce market that spreads across the main street each morning. But the village is more renowned for its well-maintained hot springs located in a lush, tropical setting. Visitors can splash about in the hot-water pools or stand under dragon-shaped spouts for a massaging spray. The complex is agreeably set up with lockers, showers, and massage rooms, but come early or late because the hot sun and hot water do not mix well, and there’s no pool with cold water. And avoid weekends and public holidays, although these are great times to watch locals enjoy themselves (which can be half the fun sometimes). Banjar is also home to Brahmavihara Arama (0362-92954), Bali’s only Buddhist monastery. Although not as impressive as those found in Thailand, it does offer the sort of serene location, extensive gardens, and coastal views that you’d find in a five star resort. Under the stupas, reminiscent of a miniature version of the Borobudur temple in Java, Buddhists are welcome to meditate, while others may contemplate in huts perched along the lower slopes. While tourists are welcome, this is a functioning monastery (though oddly devoid of monks) and not a designated tourist attraction, nor a retreat for foreigners. This may change, however, with the imminent construction inside of… yes, bungalows. Both attractions can be visited separately or together by walking, which is described further in Best Walks (see page 114).
Times Springs (8am–6pm daily); monastery (dawn to dusk daily) Dress Modest swimwear (springs); borrow a sarong there if you’re wearing shorts/skirt (monastery) Getting There Turn-offs to both are accessible by bemo from Lovina and then ojek. To the springs, follow signs to air panas (“hot water”). To the monastery, follow the road to Pedawa. The turn-off between the springs and monastery is at the market. Tip A homestay and warung at the springs Also nearby Sing Sing Waterfalls and Lovina
14 Mount Batur Natural Hot Springs Hot and cold volcanic pools by a spectacular crater lake
The largest lake in Bali is nestled inside the island’s most active volcano. Most stop along the crater rim of Gunung Batur to photo the lava-coated slopes, pig out at the buffet table and curse a hawker, but few realize there’s much more to enjoy inside the volcano. The road from Penelokan leads to the main lakeside village of Toya Bungkah, where three places offer pools of spring-fed hot water and contrasting cold. Each shares the same sources of water, features similarly magnificent views and provides massages (for an extra payment), but facilities differ markedly. And, despite claims, none provide spas with any “healing powers.” The public baths (also known as Tamba) are squeezed between the two resorts. While more palatable after recent renovations, the pools are small, not private, and smell of sulphur. There’s also nowhere to sit and relax, but it is the cheapest option (Rp50,000). Next door, Batur Natural Hot Spring (0366-51193; baturhotspring.com) charges Rp120,000 (including towel, snack, drink, shower, and locker); Rp160,000 including lunch. The uninviting car park belies an attractive, spacious setting, but there are few places to lounge about and it caters mainly for Indonesians, so you may be the only foreigner there. Visiting the lakeside restaurant doesn’t require a ticket, however, and bicycles can be rented. Toya Devasya (0366-51204; toyadevasya.com) is a luxurious Seminyak-style resort with a massive cold-water swimming pool and two hot-water baths. It’s excellent value at Rp150,000 (including towel, drink, shower, and locker), and with a pool-bar and plethora of lounge chairs it un-ashamedly caters for spoilt westerners. Onsite there are also some pricey villas and a lakeside restaurant called The Lakeside Restaurant.
Times All three open 7am–7pm daily Getting There To crater rim, bemo from Gianyar, Semarapura, or Singaraja, or Perama shuttle bus (minimum of two) from Kuta, Sanur, or Ubud; then ojek to Toya Bungkah and the springs Tip There are several places to stay and eat in Toya Bungkah, but places in Kedisan are further from the incessant
