when crowds rush there for the famed combination of seafood, beer, beach, sunset and more beer. During the afternoon, much of the long, curved stretch of white sand is set up with masses of tables. An extraordinary array of fish, lobster, prawns, and squid are available, although the days of cooking on the beach using traditional grills fired by coconut husks are long gone; meals are now prepared en masse in the back kitchen. Seafood is priced by the 100g or kilogram and should (but check) include rice, vegetables, sauce—such as garlic, sweet and sour, or bumbu Bali (Balinese spices)—and a fruit platter. Your culinary delights may then be enriched further by post-sunset entertainment including fireworks, Legong dances and parading musicians. Most restaurants offer similar meals, prices, service and setting, and are lumped together in four locations. (1) The southern Muaya Beach Café Area is quieter and closer to the resorts. (2) The cluster at the end of Jalan Pemelisan Agung is the most scenic and accessible by public transport. (3) The northern end at Kedonganan is where tour groups head so it’s always packed, but restaurants are more likely to offer wine, entertainment, and a Plan B if it rains. (4) Further north, the cafés along Kelan Beach are cheaper, with the added attraction of watching planes slide along the runway. Consider coming earlier than 5pm or even staying the whole day (see page 36).
Times Restaurants open daily 11am–9pm Getting There Organized tours (including food, transport, but not drinks); by taxi (which will wait, or get another afterwards); or infrequent bemo from southern Tuban (but not after dark) Tips Over-charging is not uncommon: check the price and weight of seafood before ordering; ensure there are no hidden extras (other than tax); and double-check your bill Also nearby Ulu Watu temple and Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park
4 Padangbai Village, East Bali This sheltered bay along the east coast is a delight
This compact and unpretentious village nestled along a scenic cove is often ignored, but Padangbai is much more than a departure point for ferries to Lombok and speedboats to the Gili Islands: it’s also a very appealing base from which to explore the east coast. Padangbai offers zero night-life and even less shopping, but that’s part of the attraction; and the ferry terminal is surprisingly unobtrusive—except for the horn-happy boat captains who delight in interrupting the serenity every hour, day and night. From the fork at the end of the main street, a path (200m/218yds) heads right at Topi Inn and finishes at the revered, millennium-old Pura Silayukti temple, regularly used for massive ceremonies. Steps down the other side of the headland lead to a cliff-side shrine with dramatic views towards Candidasa. The village beach is lined with jukung fishing boats and superb for photos, but less ideal for swimming. There are two excellent alternatives nearby, however, with cafés, deckchairs, and snorkeling gear for rent. At the fork, another path (a steep 350m/ 380yds) heads left to Blue Lagoon, an adorable beach that almost disappears at high tide. The other is Bias Tugel, about 800m (900yds) up from the other end of the village, past the morning market and in front of the skeletal remains of another unfinished resort. Snorkeling to other places, such as Tanjung Jepun, can be arranged with boatmen (who also rent gear) at stalls along the main (beach) street. More serious underwater exploration is available from scuba diving agencies, notably Absolute Scuba (absolutescubabali.com) and Geko Dive (gekodive.com). Topi Inn (topiinn.net) offers workshops in music, dance, and cooking, as well as guides for hiking.
Getting There Padangbai is 2km (1.2 miles) from the main road between Denpasar and Amlapura. Shuttle buses connect with the main tourist centers, and bemo go to/from Semarapura and Amlapura. Tip There are numerous places to stay, though most restaurants offer better views than the hotels Also nearby Tenganan and Semarapura
5 Ulu Watu Temple, South Bali
A stunning cliff-top setting with Bali’s best Kecak dance
Perched on a rocky outcrop along the southwest tip of Bukit Peninsula, Pura Luhur Ulu Watu temple is certainly less touristy than its sister at Tanah Lot, but also less impressive. The grounds aren’t nearly as extensive and the temple itself is underwhelming: small, newly-renovated, and closed to non-Hindus. But Ulu Watu is understandably popular for the cliff-top setting 80m (260ft) above the crashing waves and even more so for the extraordinary Kecak dance. The low-key atmosphere with zero souvenir stalls and hawkers is also definitely part of the charm. Constructed about 1,000 years ago (but rebuilt many times since) and dedicated to the gods of the sea, Ulu Watu is one of Bali’s six revered cardinal temples. It’s renowned for the arched gateway guarded by monuments of Ganesha, the sacred elephant-headed god, and particularly crowded and photogenic during the Galungan festival (see page 117). Ulu Watu is also home to hundreds of kleptomaniacal monkeys, so hang on to your hats, sunglasses, and handbags! But the main reason why the car park is overflowing from 5pm is the Kecak dance held in a special amphitheater at sunset (6–7pm). This show with its spectacular lights and music is more dramatic and entertaining than the one at Tanah Lot. (Tickets go on sale at 5pm at an unsigned counter near the temple entrance.) Unlike Tanah Lot, however, there’s nowhere to eat or drink inside the Ulu Watu complex, and the cliff-side paths peter out quickly, but they do offer the best photos of the three-tiered pagoda and the thunderous surf pounding the cliffs below.
Times Daily 8am–7pm Address Signposted from Pecatu in central Bukit Peninsula Dress Entrance fee includes a sarong and sash Getting There On organized tours; there’s no public transport or waiting taxis. Tips A few eateries around the car park offer basic Indonesian fare. The best time for views, photos, and serenity is before 10am. There are several nearby homestays along the road to Ulu Watu beach. Also nearby Jimbaran, Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park, and Ulu Watu beach
6 Pasir Putih Beach, East Bali One of Bali’s best beaches remains blissfully undeveloped
Only 6km (4 miles) northeast of Candidasa in Perasi village a small sign indicates a turn-off to “White Sands Beach,” the unimaginative name (translated into English) given to one of Bali’s very best. The calm waters are perfect for swimming and snorkeling—with no surf (or surfer dudes)—and the sand is white, a rarity along this stretch of the coast. It’s also an ideal place to lay down your towel and splash about if you’re staying at Candidasa, which is a beach resort without an actual beach. Pasir Putih is long and curved, flanked by cliffs offering shade and snorkeling, and backed by fields of coconut palms where kids playing soccer share the grass with cattle. The far end of the beach is lined with jukung fishing boats and huts where women weave nets and men build boats. Pasir Putih is a simple fishing village. There’s nowhere to stay (and hopefully never will be), but beachside food stalls do offer the freshest grilled fish possible and cold drinks, such as kelapa muda (young coconut) in its shell. You can rent deckchairs and snorkeling equipment and arrange a massage, so you could spend all day here—and come back again the next and the next… Another attraction is the gorgeous scenery along the 1.6km (1 mile) flat, shady, and deserted road from the sign in Perasi. Along the way, you’ll pass friendly locals collecting firewood, buffaloes ploughing rice fields, and paths leading into wild coconut groves. The road finishes at a small car park with a temple and entry post, where we beg, beseech, and implore you to leave any vehicle. From there, the 500m (540yd) path to the beach is very rough, so please walk there instead. The village is not a car park. Better still, park in, and walk from, Perasi.
Getting There Bemo to Amlapura from Semarapura or Padangbai to the turn-off in Perasi; from there, walk or there may be an ojek (motorbike taxi) Also nearby Tenganan and Ujung water palace
7 Tirtagangga Water Palace Fountains and lotus ponds surrounded by rice fields
