Bali & Lombok Tuttle Travel Pack. Paul Greenway
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19 Pura Lingsar Temple in Lombok Sacred to Hindus and Muslims who “fight” with rice cakes
Not far from the capital, Mataram, and easily accessible from Senggigi, Pura Lingsar is the most important and sacred temple on Lombok. Built in the 18th century by a Balinese ruler and based on various animist beliefs, the temple is now revered by Hindus as well as followers of a minority sect of unorthodox Islam known as Wektu Telu (although followers are officially referred to as Muslims). But worshippers of Buddhism, Christianity, and orthodox Islam also come to pray, make offerings for a good harvest and bountiful rain, and to bathe in the holy waters. The more elevated Pura Gaduh Hindu temple has four shrines pointing towards the twin volcanic powers of Rinjani (Lombok) and Agung (Bali). The lower Wektu Telu Kemaliq building has two courtyards with Balinese-style architecture—one for praying, the other with a pond. Gates to the pond are opened if someone buys hard-boiled eggs at the entrance and a priest or guardian can be found to lure eels to the surface of the pond. (Observing the eels is regarded by locals as a sign of good fortune.) The setting is also delightful, with immaculate gardens, walking paths heading in all directions to padi fields and a large pool. (But be wary of stumbling into segregated and unsigned public bathing areas.) The temple is especially popular on Sundays and public holidays, and at its most colorful during Perang Topat (“Rice Cake War”). Part of the Pujawali festival in late November or early December, this is when Hindus and Muslims engage in good-natured rivalry by throwing food, mostly rice cakes called topat, at each other. Tourists are not immune from being targets and everyone is encouraged to participate.
Times Daylight hours daily Dress Rent sarong/ sash at temple entrance Getting There Bemo from Sweta (Mandalika) terminal in Mataram to Lingsar village. Tips A donation of Rp5,000 is enough. A guide is not compulsory, despite what you may be told. Also nearby Taman Narmada park
20 Lombok’s Senggigi Beach A resort with deserted beaches and quiet roads. No, really!
Stretching north from the island’s capital Mataram is a series of glorious, curved beaches interrupted by rocky promontories and backed by undeveloped hills covered with dense coconut groves. A popular spot for tourists to photograph the views (especially at sunset)—and for the sizable local Balinese population to pray—is the picturesque Hindu temple, Pura Batu Bolong, which faces the mighty Agung volcano on Bali. While supremely photogenic, the beaches are a mixed bag for swimming, and most sand is grayish. The two best beaches in Central Senggigi are in front of the Aerowisata and Sheraton hotels, but the public beach in between both is scruffy and impossibly busy on weekends. More alluring are the beaches at Mangsit, a few kilometers north, and between Café Alberto and Pura Batu Bolong temple, while you can almost feel Crusoe-esque along stretches of sand south of the temple. At breakwaters in front of the Aerowisata hotel, fishermen compete for the waves with local (not foreign) surfers; this is also the best area for snorkeling (and the only place to rent equipment anyway). Ignored by almost every foreign tourist, and only 1.2km (0.75 miles) from the main road, is the Taman Wisata Alam Kerandangan nature reserve, a dense sanctuary of hiking trails, waterfalls and, of course, monkeys. For many, the appeal of Senggigi is what it doesn’t have: tourist hordes, heavy traffic, and high prices. It’s more spacious and tranquil than the Kuta/Legian region of Bali, but also smaller and less developed. In addition, Senggigi is a perfect base for exploring western Lombok, but be warned: many hotel rooms in central Senggigi are within earshot of at least one (and often three) nightclubs.
Getting There Bemo (i.e., pick-up trucks) ply the main road as far as Kebun Roek terminal in Ampenan (western Mataram). Shuttle buses depart for all major tourist spots in Bali and Lombok. Tip Don’t stay in central Senggigi unless you’re a heavy clubber or heavier sleeper.
21 Taman Narmada Gardens, Lombok The closest you may get to Rinjani and its crater lake
Once upon a time, there was a bored king who lived in eastern Bali but ruled this part of Lombok, and had an obsession with Gunung Rinjani… King Anak Agung Ngurah Gede Karang Asem built what was probably used as a summer palace in 1727. It was designed to pay homage to the might of Lombok’s only volcano, the omnipotent Rinjani, which he could see but no longer climb for his annual pilgrimage. (Although it is just possible the King may have also enjoyed watching young girls bathe in the pools.) The park features the Pura Kalasa temple, described on the billboard at the entrance as a “mini Rinjani”—which is a slight exaggeration considering the original is 3,726m (12,224ft) high. To complete the “Rinjani replica,” the Asem Pool is shaped (sort of) like the Danau Segara Anak crater lake that sits on top of Rinjani. But, perhaps, the King would be most displeased that the pool is now used by canoodling couples in paddle boats. Taman Narmada is such an attractive place to wander around and admire the fountains, ponds and flowers, to swim in the pools, to relax under large shady trees and to appreciate the architecture featuring Sasak, Javanese, Islamic, and Balinese designs. And you can shop for souvenirs in the stalls on the way out. Like most places in this region, you may have the place to yourself during the week, but half of Mataram seems to flock here on weekends and public holidays, and anyone with a white face (if you have one) may become the center of attraction. The market at the bemo stop at the entrance sells a more noteworthy selection of handicrafts than usual.
Times 7am–6pm daily Getting There Bemo from Senggigi to Kebun Roek terminal in Ampenan in Mataram; then another to the Narmada market directly opposite the park entrance. Otherwise, charter a car or taxi. Also nearby Pura Lingsar temple
CHAPTER 2
EXPLORING BALI & LOMBOK
Almost every conceivable type of attraction and activity is available on Bali and Lombok. But perhaps you’re only interested in shopping, surfing, and partying, or you just want to relax away from the crowds along Bali’s northern or eastern coasts or on Lombok. Possibly, you’re yearning to explore the villages and temples of Bali’s spiritual heartland from Ubud, or maybe climbing volcanoes, rafting rivers, and snorkeling reefs are your thing. Whatever your interests, this chapter provides detailed daily excursions (and some vital extra special sections) that includes all the information you need to know about where to go, how to get there, and what to see.
1 Southern Bali
2 Ubud
3 Bali’s East Coast
4 Bali’s Highlands & North Coast
5 The Nusa Islands
6 Western Lombok
7 Northern Lombok
8 Southern Lombok
EXPLORING SOUTHERN BALI
This epicenter for tourism has more to offer than many realize
Also see Sanur and Nusa Dua & Tanjung Benoa insets on the folded map
Sometime in the 1970s, the Bali Big Bang occurred and a malarial fishing village called Kuta quickly turned into one of the most popular tourist destinations on earth. Maybe 70