Variations
I have a collection of favorite recipes that I like to make year round by simply substituting other vegetables that are at the peak of their flavor. Here are some of my seasonal variations on recipes in this book.
| RECIPE | SPRING | SUMMER | AUTUMN | WINTER |
| Dumplings (page 100) | Leeks and cellophane noodles | Tomato, chives and egg | Fennel, carrots and egg | Cabbage, mushrooms and tofu |
| Fried Rice (page 63) | English peas Pea shoots | Zucchini Tomatoes | Kale Chanterelles | Rainbow chard Cauliflower |
| Red Curry (page 54) | Asparagus Fava beans | Red peppers Eggplant Tomatoes | Kabocha, delicata or acorn squash | Sweet potato Parsnips Kale |
| Greens with Sesame Sauce (page 54) | Fiddlehead ferns Dandelion greens | Spinach Chrysanthemum leaves | Swiss or rainbow chard | Red Russian kale |
| Spring Rolls (page 50) | Bamboo shoots and mushrooms | Zucchini and fennel | Celery root and carrots | Turnip and carrots |
Seasonal Menu Suggestions
When planning your menus, it is important to think about how the flavors and textures will work with one another. For example, If you choose a spicy dish, contrast that with one that is more bland. Or if you chose a dish with lots of sauce, combine that with a drier dish. There are so many different types of rice available on the market today red rice, pink rice, green-tea rice, black forbidden rice, and so on. Each of them has distinct qualities that make them suitable for different occasions and seasons. Here are some Ideas for family-style menus.
| SEASON | STARTER | RICE | MAIN DISH 1 | MAIN DISH 2 |
| SPRING | Crispy Spring Rolls (page 50) | Jasmine brown rice | Fresh Artichoke Hearts, Green Beans and Bell Pepper in Thai Red Curry (page 54) | Broccolini with Seasoned Soy Sauce (page 57) |
| SUMMER | Fresh Salad with Sweet, Sour, Spicy Sauce (page 70) | Pink rice | Spicy Fried Okra (page 83) | Grilled Vegetable Kebabs with Two Marinades (page 76) |
| AUTUMN | Green Apple Salad with Tangy Thai Dressing (page 94) | Sticky (glutinous) rice | Red and Golden Beets in Green Curry (page 106) | Cherry Tomatoes Simmered with Tofu (page 107) |
| WINTER | Tofu, Spinach and Fennel Wontons (page 118) | Red rice | Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sweet Chili Sauce (page 128) | Sweet Soy and Black Pepper Cauliflower (page 129) |
Equipment And Utensils
You don’t need exotic equipment to cook Asian food—only a minimum of utensils, many of which are already found in a Western kitchen. If you do own a wok or a bamboo steamer, by all means use them. Here’s what I use regularly.
Wok
The wok is the most versatile cooking vessel in my kitchen. I use it mostly for stir-frying, but also for deep-frying, steaming and much, much more. Mine is a 14-inch (35-cm) carbon steel wok, which is perfect for home cooking for a family of four. A flat-bottomed wok works best for electric ranges; a round-bottomed one is best for gas. They’re great, but there’s no need to buy a wok if you don’t have one already (although you could put it on your wish list). A large skillet or sauté pan also works fine for stir-frying.
Cast-Iron Frying Pans
I have two cast-iron frying pans: A small one (6½ in/16.5 cm) for toasting seeds and spices, and a larger one (10 in/25 cm) for frying sunny-side-up eggs, pancakes, potstickers and more.
Dutch Oven
My two Dutch ovens (2.2 quart/liter and 3.75 quart/liter) bring cheer to my kitchen with their bright red color. Aesthetics aside, they are very useful for braising, making curries, congee, soups and stews, and deep-frying too!
I prefer using the smaller vessel for deep-frying, even though it holds fewer items at a time. It lets me better control how quickly the food (spring rolls, green beans, etc.) cooks, and I use less oil. A heavy-bottomed saucepan or pot can do the same job.
Pots
If pots could talk, my trusty 6-quart/liter stainless-steel stockpot would have lots of stories to tell, mainly about stocks—vegetable, mushroom, chicken...you name it. Yes, I make stock in it, and congee as well. It makes a great steamer, too, whether with my steamer basket (above right), which fits inside perfectly, or by channeling MacGyver (see page 14).
I have smaller 2- to 3-quart/liter pots with tight-fitting lids, which I use for cooking rice on the stovetop and boiling noodles in single-serve quantities.
Steamer Basket
Ever since I burned a hole in the bottom of my mom's metal steamer (always, always check to make sure there's enough water in your steamer), I've relied on my steamer basket. Made from stainless steel, it expands from 6 to 9 inches (15 to 23 cm) and fits a wide variety of pots. At its widest, the basket holds six to eight dumplings at a time, which is fine by me. To make it non-stick, I’ll brush it with oil or cut out a piece of parchment to size.
Wooden Spatulas
The wooden spatula is my favorite cooking utensil-1 have about six of them in different sizes and shapes! You may have heard that a metal wok spatula is ideal for stir-frying, because it has a wide shovel shape that matches the curved surface of a wok. Personally, I find it heavy and cumbersome, not least because the handle keeps falling off!
Wire-mesh Skimmer
My long-handled wire-mesh skimmer is another favorite tool. I use it for deep-frying, as well as for removing noodles, wontons, dumplings, etc, from boiling water. The wire mesh allows oil to drain from the food, and the long handle helps protect your hand from the heat. However, a slotted spoon can work just as well.
Wire Rack Sheet
After deep-frying things—sometimes even after pan-frying bacon or other greasy foods—I always drain them to get rid of excess oil. My go-to method was always paper towels until I bought a wire rack and set it atop a baking sheet. I discovered that the food turns out less soggy this way.
Food Processor
When I was a little girl, I would sit by my mom on the kitchen floor as she pounded herbs and spices into a smooth paste in her stone mortar. She would methodically add the firmer, more fibrous herbs like turmeric and lemongrass first, followed by hard spices like coriander and cumin, and finally the softer ingredients like garlic and shallots. It looked like a lot of work! Nowadays, she just uses a food processor, and I’ve followed suit. My 4-cup (4-liter) food processor is perfect for grinding spice pastes and making sauces. Any bigger, and your ingredients won’t be ground properly. Use a spatula to scrape down the sides and add water a little at a time if the paste does not turn over as expected. Be observant and keep checking the consistency of the paste between your fingers.
Mortar and Pestle
When
