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Pad Thai rice noodles
BUCKWHEAT NOODLES
Thin and brownish in color, soba (the Japanese name) is made from buckwheat flour, often with wheat flour added. Buckwheat is not a true cereal grain, but is related to rhubarb and sorrel, making it suitable for those who are gluten-free. Buckwheat-only noodles are available-just read the labels. A striking green noodle called cha soba is made with green tea. Although soba noodles are often served cold with a dipping sauce (page 88), they can be used interchangeably in any udon recipe. Korean buckwheat noodles (page 113) are chewier in texture, and may also contain sweet potato flour or arrowroot. Soba noodles are usually available dried in the U.S.
CHINESE EGG NOODLES
come in various widths and diameters, and are available fresh or dried. I stock up on both thin and flat dried noodles
They should be pale yellow in color-bright golden-yellow noodles usually contain food coloring. After a quick boil, I'll use them in stir-fried noodles or toss them with peanut sauce for a quick noodle salad. Fresh uncooked noodles can keep in the refrigerator for about a week. You can also freeze them for about three months. Don't thaw them before using, or they will turn soggy; simply boil them for a little longer than directed on the package. Thin spaghetti makes an acceptable substitute.
CELLOPHANE NOODLES
Made from mung bean starch (hence their other moniker, bean thread noodles), these translucent noodles have a smooth and slippery texture, making them perfect for soup-noodle dishes (page 126). Cellophane noodles are commonly sold dried in packages containing eight to ten bundles, each ranging from 1.3 to 2 ounces (40 to 60 g). Look for a brand that contains only mung beans and water, with no additives.
FINE RICE NOODLES This variety, called vermicelli or maifun, is great for stir-frying. Deep-frying turns them into a crunchy garnish or a bed for sauces.
MEDIUM PAD THAI NOODLES
Versatile noodles about ¼ inch (6 mm) wide, these can be used in soups, stir-fries, salads—and, of course, for Pad Thai (page 66). Find them in the Asian/international aisle of your local grocery store.
RICE STICKS are flat noodles made from rice and water—they contain neither mung beans nor wheat. Extremely popular in Southeast Asia, rice sticks come in several different shapes and sizes, which can be roughly classified into thin/small, medium and wide categories. They are most often available in packages containing 14 or 16 ounces (400 or 450 g) of noodles. Don't worry too much about the size and shape for the recipes in this book.
ROUND RICE NOODLES (BUN)
come in various sizes ranging from small to extra-large. Small round rice noodles are used for Vietnamese Noodle Salad Bowls (page 62). They bear a very close resemblance to rice vermicelli; place the two side by side, however, and you'll be able to tell that rice vermicelli noodles are thinner. These noodles are sold dried as wiry flat skeins or straight sticks in clear plastic packages.
THIN BANH PHO NOODLES
These noodles are ⅛ inch (3 mm) or less in width, and are most often used in soups, especially the popular Vietnamese soup-noodle dish pho (page 136). Sometimes they can be found fresh in the refrigerated section of Asian markets.
Asian Herbs
Cilantro (coriander leaves), lemongrass, Asian (kaffir) lime leaf and Thai basil are my favorite Asian herbs. While cilantro is easy to find, lemongrass, lime leaves and Thai basil are usually only available at Asian markets. However, I have seen lemongrass and lime leaves sold fresh and dried at specialty markets like Whole Foods in cities with large Asian populations. If you do have to make a trek to an Asian market to purchase them, take heart: all these herbs (except cilantro) freeze well—as do chilies. You can store them in the freezer for three to six months and they'll still be full of flavor. Just run them under hot water before using, or simply drop them into your soup or stew straight from the freezer. This means you'll only have to make that trek once every few months and you can still cook your favorite Asian dishes in the meantime.
Another solution is to grow Asian herbs at home. They can be easily cultivated in the garden or in containers, according to Wendy Kiang-Spray, master gardener and author of The Chinese Kitchen Garden: Growing Techniques and Family Recipes from a Classic Cuisine (Timber Press). She gives some growing tips below.
ASIAN LIME LEAVES (KAFFIR, MARKUT) These glossy forest-green leaves are wonderfully aromatic. Crumple them before adding to coconut-milk dishes, soups and braises for a citrusy, floral undertone. The unmistakable double-barrel leaves are best when fresh or frozen. Don't buy dried leaves if you can help it, as they lack aroma and flavor. Asian lime leaves keep for ten days in the refrigerator and up to six months in a zip-top bag in the freezer. If you can't find them, try substituting lime zest, lemon thyme, lemon verbena or lemon myrtle. If you live in a tropical climate, you can plant Asian lime trees in your garden. In other climates, grow them in containers and bring indoors during winter to protect from frost. Lime trees enjoy indoor temperatures around 60°F (16°C) or above, especially during winter months. Prune while young to encourage branching and a bushier plant.
CILANTRO (CORIANDER LEAF, CHINESE PARSLEY) is used to flavor marinades and is also added to noodles, soups and stir-fries as a garnish right before serving. The flavorful, earthy-tasting stems and roots are minced and thrown into curry pastes and stocks. Look for whole cilantro plants with roots at farmer's markets. To grow, buy starter plants or start from seed. To harvest fresh cilantro all season, sow seeds every two to three weeks for a continuous crop. As soon as plants are 3 to 4 inches tall with cuttable leaves, snip them for cooking. Cilantro is an annual and will need to be replenished when mature.
LEMONGRASS These yellowish-green stalks have stiff, lance-like leaves and impart a delicate citrus flavor to soups, curries, and stir-fries. Choose plump stalks that are firm and tight with no signs of mildew or rot. Wrap fresh lemongrass in moist paper towels and store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Or freeze them in a zip-top bag for three months. Lemongrass is available dried (at many spice shops), minced (in the freezer section of Asian markets), and as a paste (in the refrigerated produce section of mainstream grocery stores), but ultimately fresh tastes the best. Lemon verbena has a similar flavor. The easiest, cheapest and most rewarding way to start lemongrass is by taking a cutting from a friend or by finding find fresh green stalks at an Asian supermarket. Place healthy stalks in a glass of water. Change the water every other day or whenever it begins to look murky. Roots should appear within two weeks. When the roots are a couple of inches long and there is no danger of frost, the lemongrass stalks can be planted directly in the garden. Lemongrass can grow to at least three feet tall. Harvest as needed by cutting larger outer stalks at soil level.
Thai basil
Asian (kaffir) lime leaves
coriander leaves (cilantro)
lemongrass stalks
Trimming lemongrass: Peel away the loose outer layers. Trim about 1 inch (2.5 em) from the hard root and cut off the woody top where green meets pale yellow, leaving 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 em) of the tender white core. Bruise the stem to release
