Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley
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Malachite—green ore of copper.
Mantle—cape-like garment draped under 1 arm and over the other, sometimes falling over both shoulders and fastened in front. This mantle developed into the short mantilla which was sometimes edged with fringe. Pl. III, 5.
Ostrich Feathers—emblem of a god or royalty.
Papyrus or Reed—standard of the Kingdom of the North; also paper made from the papyrus plant. Pl. IV, 7.
Pectoral—ornaments made of gold and enamel, with a cut-out design, which hung on a breast-length gold chain over the collar. This semiofficial ornament was worn by royalty and other important people. Pl. II, 1.
Pharaoh—royal title given the ruler in ancient Egypt.
Plumed Headdress—refer to Feather Headdress.
Postiche—false beard attached usually by a gold strap, worn as a sign of dignity.
Pshent—state headdress which combined the headdresses of the Northern and Southern Kingdoms. Pl. IV, 3.
Rectangular Cape—transparent cape clasped at the breast.
Reed—refer to Papyrus.
Robe—very full, rectangular-shaped garment which formed dolman-like sleeve when girded.
Royal Snake or Uraeus—refer to Asp.
Sacred Beetle or Scarab—symbol of immortality. Red carnelian, carved in design of sacred beetle, used as official seal by the pharaoh in place of lock and key. Pl. III, 6.
Sandal—refer to Chap. 1.
Scarab—refer to Sacred Beetle.
Scroll—symbol of the Nile River.
Shawl—rectangular—shaped fabric of varying size.
Stibium—mixture used for staining eyelid and eyebrow.
Symbol of Royalty—design significant of the nobility; realistic snake, or bird often worn on headdress. Pl. III, 1.
Toque—close-fitting cap.
Transparent Outerskirt—linen skirt lengthened in the back and looped up in puffs, used in latter part of Dynasty XVIII. Pl. II, 6.
Tunic—long, scant garment varying in length and reaching from the bust to the ankle, worn by man and woman. 1 or 2 straps over shoulders held tunic in place. Pl. IV, 6.
Uraeus—refer to Asp.
Vulture—sacred bird which was the protector of the king in time of war.
Vulture Cap—headdress topped with the outspread wings of a vulture. Pl. III, 3.
Wig—artificial headdress built upon a net-like surface which served as a protection from the heat of the sun. Pl. IV, 1.
Winged Clobe—symbol of the sun carried on wings through the heavens. This motif, shown over the entrance of the temples and tombs, signified the protection of the sun-god. It was also used as a decoration on garments, accessories and jewelry. Pl. IV, 2.
Wraparound Skirt—refer to Chap. 1. Pl. IV, 5.
Zig-zag—symbol of the Nile River which gave life to the crops.
Asiatic Empires
CHRONOLOGY
SUMERIAN PERIOD (3175-2425 B.C.): First Dynasty of Ur, 2575-2425 B.C. Royal tombs of Ur, epoch of city kingdoms.
DYNASTY OF AKKAD (2425-2270 B.C.): Founded by Sargon.
SUMERIAN AND AKKADIAN EMPIRE (2270-2150 B.C.): Guti supremacy in Babylon.
FIRST BABYLONIAN EMPIRE (1900-1600 B.C.): Hammurabi, a great ruler. Code of 285 laws, practically every kind of legal document found, mortgages, deeds of sale, guarantees, promissory notes, etc. Canal built.
KASSITE RULE IN BABYLONIA (1600-1150 B.C.): Much art destroyed.
PHRYGIANS SETTLED IN ASIA MINOR (1100 B.C.).
HEBREW KINGDOM UNDER DAVID (c. 1000 B.C.): Kingdom of Jews divided into Kingdom of Judah and Kingdom of Israel, 975 B.C. Famine in Israel. Israel, an Assyrian province, 741 B.C. Jews under Ptolemies, 323-198 B.C.
MEDIAN EMPIRE (835-750 B.C.)
ASSYRIAN EMPIRE (884-606 B.C.): First Period, 884-745 B.C. Second Period, 745-626 B.C. Kingdom of Israel destroyed by Sargon II, King of Assyria, 722 B.C. Assurbanipal, 668-626 B.C. Library founded in Nineveh, 630 B.C. Art highly developed. Fall of Nineveh, the Assyrian capital, 612 B.C. End of Assyrian Empire, 606 B.C.
CHALDEAN OR SECOND BABYLONIAN EMPIRE (625 c. 550 B.C.): King of Babylon (Nebuchadnezzar) destroyed Jerusalem, 586 B.C.
PERSIAN EMPIRE (550-330 B.C.): Cyrus, 550-530 B.C. Cambyses, 530-522 B.C. Egypt became Persian province, 528 B.C. Darius, 521-485 B.C. Persian conquest of Ionia, 494 B.C. Defeat of Persians, 479 B.C. Alexander conquered Babylon and destroyed Persepolis, 331 B.C.
CHAPTER 3
Asiatic Empires
HISTORY
Before 3000 B.C. the Sumerians—original inhabitants of Assyria—had founded walled cities and developed an elaborate civilization, but they were conquered by invading Semitic Akkadians, who took over political control about 2300 B.C. The wealth of precious metals that have been excavated denotes a prosperous civilization flourished in this section of the world.
The first Babylonian Empire, spreading over the valleys of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, was founded by Hammurabi, a Semite, about 1900 B.C. About 1600 B.C. Babylon, its leading city, was harassed by the Kassites who brought with them the horse and war chariot and established their own kingdom. In the meantime, a settlement of Ashur, in the northern part of the valley, had become very strong and assumed leadership, while Babylon became a lesser power. For centuries the power swayed back and forth between the two capitals, Nineveh of Assyria and Babylon of Babylonia.
Assyria became an empire as early as 884 B.C. and later was the most powerful Asiatic state. The private life of one of its rulers, Assurbanipal, and his queen is depicted on many bas-reliefs of this period.
In the 8th century B.C., under a line of strong kings beginning with Sargon II (who was also a Semite), Assyria dominated western Asia but maintained her supremacy for only about 150 years. The empire fell in 612 B.C. when the Chaldeans (a Semitic tribe that had already captured Babylonia), assisted by the Medes and Persians, took Nineveh. Two kingdoms were established, the Medo-Persian in the north and the Chaldean in the south. During the Chaldean (or second Babylonian) Empire, Babylon was rebuilt until it surpassed Nineveh. This great new empire, under Nebuchadnezzar