his successors, lasted until about 550 B.C. when it was defeated by Cyrus.
Under Cyrus, the lands of the Medes, the Lydians, and Asia Minor (which included the Phrygians, Syrians, Parthians, and Amazons), were all conquered and thus the Persian Empire was established. Further conquest between 530 and 522 B.C. under Cyrus’ son Cambyses, resulted in the acquisition of most of Egypt. The Persian Empire passed into the hands of Greece when defeated by Alexander the Great about 331 B.C.
THE NEAR EAST 600 B.C.
Arts and costumes of Babylonia, Assyria, Mycenae (a Greek city), and even of Egypt in the early centuries, were so merged that it is very difficult to distinguish them individually.
In contrast with the simple garments of wool worn by the Sumerians, the costumes of Babylonian and Assyrian monarchs were very extravagant. During the most prosperous times, garments were practically covered with jewelry and woven embroidery.
The expression “to tie the nuptial knot” originated among the Babylonians. The priest, when conducting a wedding ceremony, would take two threads from the outer garment of the bride and two from that of the bridegroom and tie them together as a symbol of union.
About 550 B.C., Cyrus brought the long robe or sleeved tunic of the Medes to Persia and encouraged his people to adopt it. The Persians brought pantaloons to the other civilizations.
The Phrygian cap was used as far westward as Venice and the Doge wore it until the last days of Venetian independence in 1797, The myth of King Midas, a Phrygian ruler, no doubt was due to the wealth of gold in that country.
The Hebrews, who were inhabitants of Palestine, a territory situated to the Southwest of Syria in Asia Minor, adopted a costume with drapery and fringe which showed the influence of Babylonia, Assyria, and Persia. The costume worn by the Greeks after their Persian victory was dominant until 164 B.C. when Rome took over Palestine.
In most of the Asiatic countries the woman had very little freedom. Marriage at an early age originated as a protective measure since the conqueror of a country usually carried off many of the women and girls to his native country. Gradually this protection became an enslavement of the Hebrew woman. She was veiled and not permitted to uncover her head before any man who was a stranger. Before the exile of the Hebrew people, a daughter might be sold either as a concubine or a slave. In spite of these rigid rules, a woman was able to excel in certain professions; judges are listed among women of that time.
Greater freedom was enjoyed by the woman of Babylon since her role in this country was an influential one. In more ancient times she was esteemed as a prophetess, performed the religious ceremonies, and had authority to manage the property of the deity. The famous code of laws of Hammurabi lists laws of marriage similar to those of today. Although the father of the bridegroom paid the price of the bride, marriage was really more like a contract between man and wife. It is true that there were slaves, but a woman usually had economic independence and a good legal position with the right to be a scribe, judge, or witness. A married woman was permitted to take her husband’s place and property. Some of the women who lived in the city of Babylon achieved considerable power and some girls became secretaries. The making and using of dyes were important household duties of a woman. Research work was carried on by both men and women. The wealthy woman was philanthropic and sometimes bestowed sums of money on each citizen of the city in which she lived. She gave money for the construction of public buildings and made contributions for the enjoyment of her fellow citizens. At times she presided at public games and over religious ceremonies.
The man in the Asiatic countries engaged in agriculture and in the arts and crafts, which were well established. The title of shepherd taken by the early Chaldean princes shows the importance given to the pastoral habits of the people. The traveling salesman held an essential place in life; raw materials brought into the country were manufactured into finished products and sold in the countries farther to the north and west. The banker was also very important and was vital to the successful financing of the various businesses of the country.
The Sumerian slave was not considered as an inferior since he had been usually a freeman captured from another country. He was given many rights, including that of purchasing his freedom.
DRESS
A. Sources of information: coins, engraved gems, monuments, sculpture from palaces, temples, tombs, and stelae, bronze, marble, and fictile vases, illustrations by J. J. J. Tissot, the French artist who visited Palestine in the 19th century and made a series of water colors of the life of the Old and the New Testament, from the landscape and people of the time and suggestions from ancient and new manuscripts.
B. MEN (Early Babylonian, 1900-1600 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: nude torso.Outer lower: skirt reaching to calf or ankle, sometimes of sheep skin.Cloaks and overgarments: shawl with or without fringe, of soft material worn over left shoulder.Hair: shaven head and upper lip, short chin-beard.Headdress: cap similar to fez.Footwear: barefoot.Accessories: walking stick or staff; wide belt; sword.Jewelry: gold and bronze bracelets and ornaments; chain with pendant of coin-like seal.Typical Colors: no doubt indigo, madder, and purple.Typical Materials: finely woven cloth of flax or wool.Make-up: apparently none.
C. WOMEN (Early Babylonian, 1900-1600 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: scant garment to ankle; low neckline; unbelted tunic, short tight sleeve; later, ankle length dress with flounce.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed cape, gathered and tied at neck.Hair: low on forehead, separated in bandeaux and held down on the forehead by a ribbon; elaborate coils or braids; thick, short braids pinned up over nape of neck when wearer was away from home; hair drawn back from ears occasionally, falling down in ringlets over shoulder; sometimes long hair braided with gold bands.Headdress: crown with gold rings across forehead and triangular decoration in back composed of 7 long thin points each topped by a gold rosette; close-fitting cap with linen band or veil rolled around it; elaborate conical tiara worn by wealthy woman.Footwear: usually barefoot.Accessories: belt; hairpins.Jewelry: gold rings, necklace of fine workmanship, beads of lapis, agate, onyx, and carnelian; gold and bronze bracelets, earrings and ornaments; brooch.Typical Colors: Refer to B. 7.Typical Materials: Refer to B. 8.Make-up: eye emphasized by use of kohl on lid and at corner; skin made smooth with finely powdered pumice; white lead used on face.
D. MEN AND WOMEN (Phrygian, 1100 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper and outer lower: long, flowing or close-fitting tunic with long sleeve worn by woman; 2 tunics worn by man, knee-length undertunic with sleeve, outertunic reaching to hip or to knee; tight or loose pantaloons terminating at ankle.Cloaks and overgarments: fringed mantle fastening at right shoulder with brooch.Hair: short bob, bang over forehead, full beard and mustache, by man; hair low on forehead with long curl on side extending almost to shoulder by woman.Headdress: richly ornamented helmet with 2 or 4 flaps in the back. Phrygian bonnet or cap with band around head, point of cap made of leather or metal.Footwear: half-boot laced across the front, sometimes with flying flaps.Accessories: belt.Jewelry: brooch; bracelets; silver, and gold ornaments.Typical Colors: beautiful rich colors including purple.Typical Materials: fine linen often embroidered in harmonious colors; mantle edged with beautiful designs or an all-over pattern; exquisite needlework; leather or skin of animal used for cap; flap on each side of cap or helmet often made from skin of leg of animal.Make-up: apparently none.
D. MEN (Hebrew, c. 1000 B.C.)Garments:Outer upper: loin cloth only in the early part of the period; short-sleeved, ankle-length tunic, girded, fringed around the lower edge, later, 2 tunics; long outertunic with long sleeve, short undertunic; sleeved cafton or kafton with fringe or purple tassels; robe unseamed, left side held in place by cord.Outer lower: breeches of fine linen worn by priest and Levite.Under: long shirt-like tunic.Cloaks and overgarments:
