wax-oil lipst...Figure 2.13 DSC thermograms of 15% PE wax in polar oils (esters) during (a) cool...Figure 2.14 Effect of relative permittivity (polarity) on the relative crystalli...Figure 2.15 Effect of relative permittivity (polarity) on the wax melting peak T...Figure 2.16 Effect of oil viscosity on the melting temperature Tm of PE wax crys...Figure 2.17 Effect of oil viscosity on the hardness of lipstick structure contai...Figure 2.18 Effect of the relative crystallinity Xc (%) obtained from crystal me...Figure 2.19 SEM micrographs of PE wax-oil lipsticks at fixed 15% PE wax in ester...Figure 2.20 Effect of PE wax amount on hardness of the HPIB-wax system (HPIB vis...Figure 2.21 Effect of PE wax amount on the (a) cooling and (b) heating curves of...Figure 2.22 Effect of PE wax amount on the melting temperature Tm in HPIB oil wi...Figure 2.23 Effect of PE wax amount in selective viscosity oils on the hardness ...Figure 2.24 Effect of the thickness of deposit on lipstick hardness on Bioskin.Figure 2.25 Effect of oil polarity and oil viscosity on sensorial perception (S+...3 Chapter 3Figure 3.1 Free radical polymerization: photoinitiators absorb light energy that...Figure 3.2 Photoinitiation: UV light hits the 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenyl-propan...Figure 3.3 Electromagnetic spectrum. UV-C (shortwave) starts at 254 nm, UV-B (mi...Figure 3.4 Absorption/transmission spectrum of rutile ((TiO2)) that is important...Figure 3.5 Emission spectrum of gallium-doped (Phillips-60 W TL03) low-wattage l...Figure 3.6 Absorption curves for photoinitiators used. a=Benzoinether absorbs in...Figure 3.7 UV through-cure of various rutile ((TiO2)) formulations; Pendulum Har...Figure 3.8 Depth of penetration by ambient oxygen in a UV cure coating. This oxy...Figure 3.9 Gallium-doped low-wattage long wavelength fluorescent bulb (GA-FL).Figure 3.10 UV Cure Light Emitting Diode (LED) nail gel Unit.Figure 3.11 Chain termination of the free radical initiator (see PI in Figure 3....Figure 3.12 High throughput primary screening results based on the evaluation of...Figure 3.13 Chemical structures of methacrylates and acrylates that could be con...Figure 3.14 BAPO (bis-acylphosphine oxide) as a two-photon photo-bleachable PI. ...Figure 3.15 Pigment selection. The through-cure window is important for UV nail ...Figure 3.16 Typical UV Curable Polyurethane Dispersion Synthesis [12].Figure 3.17 Elastic modulus (E)and (%) elongation at break (ɛB) values for the c...Figure 3.18 Correlation of gel fraction data (after 72 hours of soak-off) of the...Figure 3.19 UV nail gel construction: Human nail, UV nail gel base coat which is...
4 Chapter 4Figure 4.1 Anatomy of nail polish: Typical polymer additives like nitrocellulose...Figure 4.2 Optimal rheological response of nail polish formulations. (a) Shear r...Figure 4.3 Schematic for Dripping-onto-Substrate (DoS) rheometry. The set-up inv...Figure 4.4 Nail polishes with different brands and colors. (a) OPI Infinite Shin...Figure 4.5 Apparent shear viscosity as a function of shear rate for different co...Figure 4.6 Flow curves for CND nail polishes. A fixed time of 10 s is used betwe...Figure 4.7 Shear viscosity vs. shear rate for Essie Nail Polishes. Shearing time...Figure 4.8 Apparent shear viscosity as a function of shear stress, and shear str...Figure 4.9 Visualizing volume entrained by brush loading and patterns formed dur...Figure 4.10 Image sequences showing application of nail paint onto a fingernail ...Figure 4.11 Image sequences showing application of nail paint onto a fingernail ...Figure 4.12 Tack test of nail lacquers. (a) Stress as a function of strain at co...Figure 4.13 Dripping, following brush loading via withdrawl of brush at a consta...Figure 4.14 Characterization of capillary-driven and pinching dynamics of nail l...Figure 4.15 Extensional rheology characterization of nail lacquers using DoS rhe...Figure 4.16 Radius evolution and neck shapes obtained using DoS rheometry protoc...Figure 4.17 Radius evolution data for Essie and CND nail lacquer formulations. (...Figure 4.18 (a) Shear rate ranges associated with diverse processes that nail po...
5 Chapter 5Figure 5.1 (a) Skin structure, and (b) schematic of outermost layer stratum corn...Figure 5.2 Different MQ resin structures. (a) M4Q (M:Q = 4:1), (b) M6Q2 (M:Q = 3...Figure 5.3 The model presented by Wengrovius et al. [69] postulating the molecul...Figure 5.4 MQ resin dispersed in thermoplastic PDMS/polyamide copolymer. Adapted...Figure 5.5 Schematic structure of (a) Bisethylhydroxycyclohexyl Methacrylate Dim...Figure 5.6 (a) Molecular structure of Bis-Carboxydecyl Dimethicone, (b) Hypothes...
6 Chapter 6Figure 6.1 Diagram illustrating the model structure of the lipid layer of 18-MEA...Figure 6.2 Left. Example forces measured between two bleached hair fibers in 1mM...
7 Chapter 7Figure 7.1 Hair architecture (a) and cuticle lamellar structure (b).Figure 7.2 Schematic of a typical AFM instrument (redrawn after [12]).Figure 7.3 Two possible usages of AFM for investigating surfaces.Figure 7.4 Surface of a keratin fibre (human hair) imaged with AFM (a) and with ...Figure 7.5 Schematic showing an idealised force versus distance curve. Regions A...Figure 7.6 Longitudinal AFM imaging. (a) 20 µm by 40 µm tapping mode image of a ...Figure 7.7 Striations observed with AFM on the surface of human hair [43].Figure 7.8 Micropores on hair surface (picture kindly provided by Roger McMullen...Figure 7.9 Lateral force image obtained with AFM [47]. The image is created by s...Figure 7.10 Friction coefficients corresponding to various substructures of the ...Figure 7.11 Experimental set-up for examining hair-to-hair interaction (redrawn ...Figure 7.12 AFM images of Brown Caucasian hair before and after bleaching (topog...
8 Chapter 8Figure 8.1 AFM elastic modulus maps for the all tested formulations on hair and ...Figure 8.2 Mean elastic moduli derived from the hair and glass slide elastic mod...Figure 8.3 Ratio of the measured elastic modulus of the formulation-treated hair...Figure 8.4 Selected AFM topography and elastic modulus maps. Number of “Shp.” re...Figure 8.5 Average elastic modulus for each tested hair sample type with the err...Figure 8.6 Collected enhanced topography, elastic modulus, and adhesion force im...Figure 8.7 Root mean square (RMS) surface roughness, elastic modulus, and adhesi...Figure 8.8 Acquired enhanced topography and elastic modulus
