and peajackets disappeared from among the crew, and finally white duck trousers and shirts were alone seen. The southeast tradewind did not unequivocally set in until we had arrived in the latitude of 16°, and longitude 102°.
ENGANO—BENCOOLEN.
On the twenty-third of August we made the island of Engano, the southernmost of the chain of islands which runs parallel with the west coast of Sumatra, and which is inhabited by a vile race. From Engano, the winds were very light and variable from the southeast, accompanied with lightning, thunder, and rain, till the twenty-eighth, when we anchored in the bay of Bencoolen; about midway between the Ratones or Rat island and the point on which the Doosoon, or village of Bencoolen or Marlborough is situated, and about three and a half miles from either place.
This settlement was ceded by the English to the Dutch government, with all the British possessions in Sumatra, by the treaty of the Netherlands in 1824, in exchange for Malacca and the claims of the Dutch to the island of Singapore. Rat island basin is resorted to by vessels intending to remain some time, more particularly during the prevalence of the northwest gales from October to March; but coasting craft always resort there during the southeast winds, which last through the other half of the year.
A boat, with acting Lieutenant Sinclair, was despatched to the town, and in a short time a very polite invitation was received from J. H. Knoerle, Esq., the Dutch resident, to breakfast with him the next morning, and to Captain G. and myself to reside with him during the ship’s stay. By this boat we heard of the entire destruction of Qualah Battu, by the Potomac, which happily precluded the necessity of an unpleasant visit, and saved the officers and crew the painful duty which would otherwise have devolved on the Peacock. The demolition of this place struck terror into the inhabitants of all the native ports on the coast, and will doubtless produce a salutary effect.
RAT ISLAND.
In the afternoon, we took a boat, and landed at Rat island. Two acres of dry land would cover it; the coral reefs, which extend northward and southward, are very extensive and dangerous. The island contains four or five wretched huts, including a stone building now in a state of much dilapidation, and a godown or magazine at the building, which is open at the sides. In heavy westerly gales, the spray of the sea breaks over this speck in the ocean. Fish is the chief food of the inhabitants. The teeth of these islanders (possessed by few of them) are of a deep black colour, and show that they are frequently employed in chewing areca, &c. The chief man, called Rajah Mundo, is a Malay, about seventy years of age, but still active and healthy, with features so brown and deeply furrowed as to resemble a piece of soleleather. When we entered his abode, a stone building, it reminded me of Hogarth’s picture of the last day, when every thing has fallen into decay. The steps were nearly all broken down; one of the two wooden pillars which supported the portico was decayed, and had fallen; the roof was gone, and the walls were falling; two half-starved monkeys stood as sentries, at the door, having something which was intended as an apology for a tail. The other articles of furniture in this abode consisted of two Chama gigas, or the great giant clams, the root of a tree for seats, two broken earthen pots for cooking, and a joint of bamboo instead of a water-bucket, which latter served likewise the purpose of a drinking-vessel, as we found in asking for some water. The floor, apparently, had never been washed; the ceiling was of coal-black; and centipedes, lizards, and snails, were crawling in every direction over the walls. In the only dry corner, lay a sick daughter, between two mats; but the mother of the rajah formed the consummation of this dreadful picture: at the back door stood what I suppose must be called a human being. We started back in amazement on seeing this frightful object, thinking her to be deranged; the horror of Macbeth, on seeing his chair occupied in the banquet-scene, by the ghost of the murdered Banquo, could not have been surpassed by our own on this occasion. The words of the royal thane rushed upon my memory, and I instinctively uttered—
“Avaunt and quit my sight! let the earth hide thee:
Thy bones are marrowless!
Thou hast no speculation in those eyes.
Which thou dost glare with.”
“Take any shape but that, and my firm nerves shall never tremble.”
The only article of dress on this singular being was a filthy, ragged waist-cloth, apparently covered with vermin, from the belt of which was suspended a long knife; her gray elf-locks scattered by the wind—her eyes running with rheum—her face and hands covered with dirt—her body loathsome with leprous spots; contrasted with her dark Malay skin, gave her a truly hideous appearance; added to this, a solitary long black tooth projected over her under lip, and her trembling and attenuated frame displayed the influence of that baneful narcotic, opium, to which she was addicted. Wretchedness could not portray a more faithful picture: imagination had nothing to conceive. We gladly left this loathsome habitation, upon a ramble about the coral reefs for shells, and shortly embarked for the ship, rejoiced at being removed from a horrid object, which long after haunted my imagination by night and day. I have since learned that she is a fiend in human shape, living by means the most diabolical.
BENCOOLEN—NUTMEGS.
The next morning we landed at Bencoolen, and found in waiting a neat carriage, in which we were conveyed into a handsome park, and subsequently to the government-house. Here we were received, at the lower end of a long staircase, by the resident, and ushered up stairs into the great hall, through two lines of soldiers, as fierce in appearance as were ever exhibited on a stage: they consisted of Malays, Sumatrans, and Javanese, from Neas and Borneo, and from the bay of Bengal, turbaned, whiskered and mustachoed, and in some cases furnished with long beards, armed with swords, the cris or crooked dagger, pistols and muskets.
A most substantial breakfast was quickly served in great variety, and placed in the verandah, for the benefit of the air. With a cloudless sky above, the most beautiful scenery surrounding us, and a hospitable reception, we had nothing more to desire. The government house is situated in a park, embosomed in flowers, fruit, and forest-trees, guarded by line hedges and a neat bamboo fence. The road around the grounds was lined with the male and female nutmeg-trees, the clove-tree, and the graceful areca-palm, laden with its yellow fruit, hanging in large clusters under the branches. Here and there were interspersed beautiful flowering trees in great variety, and creeping plants intertwined among the branches. The female nutmeg was loaded with fruit resembling, in colour, a straw-coloured peach, but pointed slightly towards the stalk, like a pear. The fruit which had become ripe, had burst about half an inch of its outer-covering, and displayed a beautiful network of scarlet mace, covering a black shining hard thick shell, in which lay concealed the nutmeg itself. The bark of the nutmeg-tree is smooth, and of a brownish-gray colour; the branches are handsome and spreading; the leaves, elliptical and pointed, afford a very grateful aromatic odour: on the same tree may be seen the fruit in its progressive stages to maturity, and the white blossoms hanging in clusters, encircled by the yellow leaves from which they have burst. From the centre of the flower proceeds an oblong reddish knob, which is the fruit. I was told that a tree which produces, daily, throughout the year, one nutmeg, is considered very productive and profitable, even at the present low prices. At the Dutch company’s late sales, they brought from fifty-two to fifty-six dollars the pecul, equal to one hundred and thirty-three and one third pounds avoirdupois; and the mace, from ninety-two to ninety-five dollars. The male nutmeg-tree, being necessary to the propagation of the fruit, cannot be dispensed with; it is generally filled with white blossoms, and interspersed among its female companions. The operation of loosening the inner shell of the nutmeg is a tedious process, and is performed over a slow fire; when the shells are sufficiently loose to rattle they are broken, assorted, soaked several times in water and lime—then placed in dry boxes or small rooms to sweat; and finally, are packed in dry chunana or lime made from seashells. The small and oblong fruit is not merchantable; the best kind is large, round, heavy and firm, of a lightish-gray colour on the outside; a strong fragrant smell; and when pricked, the oil should readily ooze out.
Very
