Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat. Edmund Roberts
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The master of the ceremonies received us with great politeness and with much ceremony; he was habited in a robe of crimson, figured with velvet, having a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, and wearing a turban; his teeth were of a deep black, owing to his excessive use of areca and phunam, and his lips and gums were of a livid hue. Scarcely were we seated, at a table set apart for our own use, in the midst of many hundred hungry native revellers, ere twenty-seven dishes, composed chiefly of sweetmeats, (there not being a particle of meat or fish,) were upon the table. After tasting a little of each, to show that we were gratified with the whole entertainment, and partaking of a cup of tea, we took our leave; areca was offered, as is customary, on our entry and departure. During the repast, four Javanese stepped out between the orchestra and danced for our amusement; their movements were slow, but very graceful, the head looking downward, and the arms as much in motion as the feet; the former being extended occasionally rather above the head, and the palms being generally opened outward and placed in every position, excepting that of closing or clenching.
Two well-constructed piers at this place, running out from a shallow creek, make a convenient harbour for small-craft, and near its upper part, is an excellent place for procuring water, which is obtained by a simple and expeditious process: a hose is connected with casks in a boat beneath, the latter are filled in a few minutes, so that in twenty-four hours the ship obtained twelve thousand gallons of water.
Yams, sweet-potatoes, goats, fowls, and fruit were purchased in abundance, but neither flour or bread could be obtained. Several monkeys were purchased by the crew at Angiers. After the ship had weighed anchor a female animal of this tribe, having a young one clinging closely to the under part of her body, broke loose, ran with great swiftness to the end of the spankerboom, and plunged into the sea; a Javanese boat, towing astern, took them in; but not in time to save the life of the younger; the female was then secured but refused to eat, and remained till next morning in a state of melancholy. Believing the animal would die, she was unloosed and running with great precipitancy to the end of the boom, looked into the sea; but not finding the object of her solicitude there, she looked overboard, from every part of the ship, moaning most piteously. About this time, she observed a small gray monkey, differing in species from herself, having a very long tail; she at once seized the latter and hugged it with great, seeming delight. The attempt to remove it from her would have been in vain, had any one been disposed to make the trial; when any of the sailors or the monkeys approached her, she would hug her new object of affection with greater tenacity, run out her head, pout disdainfully, and show a formidable row of white ivory; chattering and scolding, at the same time most vehemently; occasionally she would allow it to wander a few steps, holding on by the tip of the tail, during the time; when too far, she would pull it backward, but if it attempted to go beyond the length of its leading-string, (the tail,) she would quickly drag it to her, box its ears, closely embrace it, and after being reconciled, would feed it with some dainty morsel, stowed away in her pouch.
On a cold, stormy day, during our passage from La Plata to Sumatra, the gun-deck being deluged with water, a Porto Praya monkey, a favourite of mine, came to the cabin-door, and in its most expressive manner solicited permission to enter; it stood shivering in the doorway, dripping with saltwater, and looking the picture of distress, at the same time snuffing up the warm air, proceeding from a stove; I called it in, at length; the first object of its attention was the stove, (never having seen one before,) but approaching too near, it slightly burnt its nose, and quickly retreated, looking with much astonishment at the cause; finally it sprung to the top of the table and skipping about from one place to another, unfortunately alighted on the stove, where it danced for a second or two, jumped precipitately down, and came to me, showing its paws, (which were scorched white,) and apparently asking for relief. I rubbed them with oil, at which the animal appeared to be relieved; it then quietly took its station as close to me as possible, testifying unquestionably, as much silent gratitude as any human being could have done in a similar situation.
SAILING FROM ANGIER.
We sailed from Angier roadstead, for Manila, on the afternoon of the following day, but owing to light airs we made slow progress to the island of Lucepara; here we were obliged to anchor to find sufficient depth of water to carry the ship into the straits of Banca. After sounding with several boats, there was, at length, found a channel, having about three feet more water than the ship drew. When passing through the straits we were compelled frequently to anchor, in consequence of the soundings disagreeing much with our miserable charts. A fine breeze wafted us through these waters with great rapidity, as far as Pulo Aor; from thence, until we were fairly to the northward of the great group of shoals, lying towards the coast of Palawan, we were more indebted to the current. On our passage from Sumatra to the Philippines we passed through a considerable portion of the archipelago of the east, where lie Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, the Molucca and Philippine islands; where the sea is like a smooth bed on which the islands seem to sleep in bliss—islands, in which the spice and perfume gardens of the world, are embosomed; where the bird of paradise, the golden pheasant, and a hundred other birds of brilliant plumage, have their homes amid thickets so luxuriant, and scenery so picturesque, that European strangers there find the fairy lands of their youthful dreams. But our pleasing anticipations were at times blighted with the apprehension of striking on some unknown shoal, or encountering one of those tremendous typhoons for which the northern coast of China, in the latter part of September, about the changing of the monsoons, is so notorious.
Thick squally weather attended by variable winds blowing sometimes from the northern, and again from the southern quarter, wafted us rapidly to the eastward, after doubling the shoals. We proceeded onward, assisted by a strong current, until two o’clock in the morning of the thirtieth of September, when a slight gleam of light appearing through the mist, discovered to us mount and point Calavité, on the northwestern extremity of Mendora islands. Shortly afterward, we descried Luban and Cabia or (Goat) islands. At ten in the morning, we dropped anchor between the island of Corregidor, and the mountain of Marivales on the island of Luconia or Luzon.
Our chronometers being useless, we were obliged for some time previously to entering the China sea, to depend on our “dead reckoning;” notwithstanding twenty-five or thirty miles a day was allowed for a current setting to the eastward, after passing Pulo Sapata, the allowance proved insufficient, as we had gained forty-five miles over our reckoning. During the past month, the diarrhœa prevailed among the crew, probably occasioned by a change of climate from cold to extreme heat, from rainy weather, excess in fruit, and frequent change in diet, but more particularly from the compulsory substitution of yams for bread.
Before we anchored, the ship was boarded by a Spanish officer, despatched by the Corregidor to make the usual inquiries. Our arrival was communicated by telegraph to Manila. The officer’s boat was rowed by sixteen Indians, and armed with four neat, small brass swivels, small-arms, pikes, &c., to enable them to combat with the pirates who occasionally frequent the bay, and to capture smugglers.
Having previously paid the commandant and family a visit, by whom we were received in a most hospitable manner, we landed in the morning at the base of Marivales, in search of adventure. The ship anchored the following afternoon, in the roadstead of Manila, about four miles from the low-stone lighthouse, situated at the embouchure of the river Pasig, and being only twenty miles from our first anchorage-ground. On the succeeding morning, the captain of the port paid the usual visita, (visit,) accompanied by Mr. Henry Sturgis, of the very respectable American house of Russell and Sturgis, and Mr. Edwards, the American consul. Having received a kind invitation from these gentlemen, to take up our abode with them, I moved on shore, bag and baggage, to the house of the latter gentleman, finely situated at St. Cruz, opposite the city of Manila, and directly upon the banks of that beautiful river.
MANILA.
The noble bay of Manila is about forty-five leagues in circumference and nearly