of this great article in commerce, are in the vicinity of Bencoolen. Those which belong to the Dutch government are twelve miles distant, on a fine road extending towards the mountains, about one hundred miles long. I visited some Parsees, who were busily employed in curing nutmegs and mace. Large quantities of the latter were spread on mats, exposed to the sun, where they remain to dry, from six to ten, and from four to six o’clock. The extreme heat of the day dries them too much and renders them brittle and deficient in fragrance; if placed in too moist an air they are subject to decay and will breed worms; they should be chosen fresh, tough, oleaginous, of an extremely fragrant smell and of a bright reddish-yellow. The rind of the nutmeg when not too dry, is preserved in sirup and the entire fruit, when nearly ripe, made into a delicious and ornamental sweetmeat; it is cut part of the way down, at regular intervals and fancifully ornamented by neat scollops, peaks, and leaves, showing at one view the straw-coloured outer-covering, the scarlet mace, and the inner black shell, covering the nucleus of the whole, the nutmeg.
Pepper, another article of export to a great extent, is cultivated throughout the island. It is propagated by cuttings or layers, as we raise grape-vines: if suffered to trail on the ground, it produces no fruit, and support is consequently necessary: it climbs from twelve to twenty feet high: the blossom is white; the berries, when at maturity, are red and much resemble branches of red currants. In a favourable season it produces two crops.
The only fortification which Bencoolen possesses, is at Fort Marlborough—it is in excellent order, and situated but a short distance from the landing-place. There are not more than fifty or sixty Dutch soldiers in the place. The town is built on a point of land named Onjong Carang: it is of moderate elevation—falls back into low swampy ground, and is at times severely visited by that fatal disease, the jungle fever: the liver complaint is also very general. Bencoolen and the ten doosoons or villages, contain about eighteen thousand inhabitants, consisting of a few Dutch, some of the descendants of Englishmen, who speak the English language—Chinese, Javanese, Bengalees, Parsees, Sumatrans, Malays, &c. The Chinese occupy an enclosure in the centre of the town, and have a Budhist or temple: they bear the same characteristic marks here as elsewhere, being industrious, frugal, and thrifty. Each doosoon is governed by a rajah, who is chosen from among themselves, and if approved by the residents, he cannot lose his office during life, unless for the commission of some flagrant crime. The residents and a certain number of Rajahs form a court for the trial of all cases requiring legal investigation. If a criminal is condemned to suffer death, a copy of the trial is sent to the governor-general of Java, and if approved by him, the sentence is carried into execution. It is degrading to humanity to see the abject air with which the resident is addressed by the lower order of Sumatrans. They stand, when they enter his presence, with an aspect of humble submission: their bodies are bent—the palms of their hands are seen resting on their knees, and fear is strangely marked on their countenances.
The Dutch Government has two schools here—they are conducted upon the Lancasterian plan; the first, which is kept in an outer room of the government-house, contains about twenty-five scholars. The pupils were learning arithmetic, to write on sand, and to read from certain portions of the New Testament printed in the Malayan language. The translation was made and published, many years since, at the expense of the pious and well-known philanthropist, Robert Boyle, when the place was under the jurisdiction of the British Government, and was sent forth into various parts of the island. The second school is in the orphan-house, about a mile from the resident, on a piece of high ground sloping towards the bay, of which it has a fine view: in front of this building are several acres of land, substantially walled in with brick, and covered with fruit-trees and vegetables. The boys are educated in this school for agents, writers, &c. The principal articles of export from Bencoolen, to which may be added Trippany or Bichos do Mar, and some edible bird’s-nests, have already been named. Coffee and rice are raised here only in small quantities; they are imported from Padang for home-consumption, and consequently are not articles for export.
All the fruits common to tropical climates, and many which I am assured are not known in any other part of India, flourish here in great abundance. The animal used for domestic labour is the carbou, called here carboo: he resembles the buffalo without any hump between the fore-shoulders: although naturally of a dull, obstinate and capricious nature, he acquires a habit of surprising docility; at the command of his master, he lifts the shafts of the cart with his horns, places the half yoke (which is secured at the end) across his neck, and then stands quietly until he is secured.
I have several times been amused to see three or four children climbing on his neck, and seating themselves on his back, to take a ride. He was easily governed, after they were seated, by a rope which passed through the cartilage of the nose. He is a stout-built and strong animal, but cannot endure much fatigue, and has shorter legs and larger hoofs than the ox, with a thick sinewy neck. The horns of this animal are very large and generally turn backward, being nearly square at the base. Like the hog, he is fond of wallowing in the mire, and embraces every opportunity to cover himself with it—being thus cooled and protected from the heat of the sun, and from troublesome insects.
The bay of Bencoolen is extensive, and so much exposed that, when the sea-breeze commences, it throws in a heavy sea, and renders it impossible to carry off sufficient water for a large number of hands without causing a long delay. Owing to this cause, we were unable readily to obtain the required supply of water; and yams and bread-fruit being scarce, both of which we much needed, we took our departure, leaving instructions for the “Boxer” to follow us to Manila.
DEATH OF THE RESIDENT.
Having taken leave of the very kind and hospitable Mr. Knoerle, the resident, and of his companion, the Rev. W. C. Slingerland Conradi, pastor of the Dutch Church, I shortly found myself once more on board. I have lately received the afflicting intelligence that Mr. Knoerle, while on a journey to Palembang, was murdered at the instigation of some of the principal rajahs of Bencoolen. His body was literally cut in pieces, and then burnt with great exultation, by the perpetrators and their friends. The question naturally occurs, what could have incited the rajahs to commit so atrocious and fiend-like an act? The answer is—revenge, which is always deeply seated in the heart of a Malay.
Mr. Knoerle, imprudently, injured the happiness of many families by his unrestrained passions, and thereby sealed his horrid fate. He should ever have borne in mind that he lived among
“Souls made of fire, and children of the sun,
With whom revenge is virtue.”
CHAPTER III.
SAILING FROM BENCOOLEN—ARRIVAL AT CROKATOA AND FORSAKEN ISLANDS—SCENERY—BEAUTIFUL SUBMARINE GARDEN—BRITISH FRIGATE—ARRIVAL AT ANGIER—SAILING FROM ANGIER—BAY AND CITY OF MANILA—BUILDINGS—POPULATION—PROVISIONS—LABOUR.
On the last day of August, we weighed anchor at nine o’clock in the evening, from Bencoolen bay, and aided by the current and a land breeze, about midnight we once more found ourselves at sea. Owing to light head-winds from the southeast, calms, contrary winds, and violent squalls from the high mountains of Sumatra, accompanied with thunder and lightning, we did not arrive at our anchorage ground, off the north end of the island of Crokatoa, in the straits of Sunda, until the eighth day after our departure from the bay.
At daybreak the following morning, a boat was despatched in search of inhabitants, fresh water, and yams; but, after three or four hours’ search, returned unsuccessful. Two other boats were then sent under the command of the first lieutenant Mr. Cunningham: after a fruitless search, that officer returned at sunset, after visiting Long Island and Crokatoa. It was found difficult to effect a landing any where, owing to a heavy surf and to the coral having extended itself to a considerable distance from the shore. Hot springs
