is quieter on paths and roads, but has sufficient infrastructure to make backpacking and trekking enjoyable without the need to carry many days' supplies at a time.
Geology
The Maurienne valley was carved out long ago by an enormous glacial system. Its numerous tributaries formed the long side valleys leading into the main Arc valley. Many of these valleys still have glaciers in their upper reaches but these are retreating at an alarming rate and some will be lost in the coming decades. Climate change and glacial retreat are more apparent here than in most other parts of the Alps.
The rock here is mainly metamorphic and consists of reasonably well compacted schist and gneiss on the upper slopes. Conglomerate features in the valley, especially around Sollières where climbing on the localised pudding stone can be as much a lesson in geology as sport.
Near Sardières are two particularly unusual geological features, the Monolith and the Microlith. These impressive fingers of rock reach for up to 90m into the sky and host some challenging rock climbs within the capability of reasonably experienced climbers. The towers were formed by the dissolution of the surrounding beds of gypsum, leaving behind the limestone pillars.
Wildlife
The more remote valleys and high Alpine pastures of the Haute Maurienne are a haven for wildlife. The bouquetin (or ibex) population of the higher valleys is of national importance and their population is growing steadily. Animals from here are also being used to repopulate other mountain areas in France. Bouquetin are magnificent animals that move in herds and are easily identifiable from their dark brown coats, muscular build and iconic horns. Chamois are also in abundance and are likely to be encountered above the treeline on mountain slopes. Smaller than bouquetin, with longer legs and shorter horns, they will frequently be seen clambering among rocky outcrops and grazing on seemly barren slopes.
Bouquetin above l'Ecot
Marmots will be heard before they are seen. Their shrill alarm calls echo around the valley and these members of the rodent family can be seen standing atop rocky outcrops on sentry duty. An adult marmot will weigh around 5–7kg, and they live in communes of two or three generations. Once used for meat, fur and medicinal purposes, marmots are now a protected species. They hibernate during the winter and can be seen from late April onwards once the snow starts to melt. One particularly pleasant place to observe them is from the veranda of the Femma Refuge, although any open sunny mountainside will host any number of marmot family groups feasting on berries.
Less frequently seen are the large birds of prey. Golden eagles and bearded vultures live in the mountains and may well be seen soaring on the thermals. Ptarmigan and black grouse (tetras-lyre) also populate the mountains, along with nutcrackers, choughs and snow finches.
Lizards may well be spotted basking on rocks in the sun from Easter onwards, along with a whole host of butterflies and insects.
KEEPING SAFE AROUND THE PASTOU
Not strictly wildlife but an animal almost certain to be encountered is the pastou. These are large, white dogs that roam the mountainsides with flocks of sheep. Their role is to protect the flock from predators and threats, so they will be interested in your presence. The advice from the National Park is reprinted below.
A pastou coming to investigate
Keep your distance, making a wide detour around the flock.
Remember these dogs are guard dogs, don't try to pet them, feed them or do anything they might misinterpret as a threat.
Behave calmly when passing them; avoid loud noises and sudden movements – this is probably particularly important if you have children with you.
If one comes towards you stand still and allow it to work out what you're doing, avoid eye contact as dogs interpret eye-to-eye communication as a challenge. Walking away calmly and quietly is very effective.
Plants and flowers
The Alpine meadows are a riot of colour in the summer months, and a lazy picnic amongst the multicoloured carpet of wild flowers can form the centrepiece to a relaxing ‘day off’. Many of the flowers will be familiar to keen gardeners; others will be recognisable to even the least skilled flower spotter. Edelweiss can be spotted in sunny open places high above the treeline. Great splashes of white St Bruno's lily and a range of anemone, Alpine gentians and campanulas are frequently discovered on the high mountains, while in the valleys orchids are also found in damp spots. The meadows near Bonneval-sur-Arc and l'Ecot are carpeted with orchids, polygonum and dianthus in the summer months.
Alpine gentian
Oeillet Negligée
Edelweiss
Mix of Alpine blooms in the high pastures
Trees are limited to the lower slopes and many walks are above the treeline, but the forests of Arolla Pine will provide welcome shade on valley walks and rides. These trees regularly live to over 600 years but are slow growing and as a result are vulnerable to deforestation. Careful management of the forests is very important, and the wood is popular with artisans because it has a good grain and is easy to work with. The larch is another commonly seen tree growing abundantly in the upper valley. It is unique in the conifer family as it loses its needles each winter.
History
Since the earliest of times the Maurienne valley has been occupied by human beings, and there is ample archaeological evidence stretching back to the Bronze Age and earlier. Much of this early history is explained in the museum at Sollières. The valley has served as a thoroughfare for travellers since Roman times, if not earlier. It is possible that it was the route Hannibal took to cross the Alps in 218BC on his famous journey, although no definitive archaeological evidence has ever been found of his crossing anywhere in the Alps. The route, via Col Clapier (Route 4), was still used as a main thoroughfare into the 16th century but once a more suitable route had been forged, over the Col du Mont Cenis, this old route fell into disrepair.
The region's economy has always been a mixture of agriculture and transport/tourism. The first road suitable for motor vehicles crossing the Alps was the Mont Cenis road. This was an improvement on the magnificent road constructed in the early 19th century on the orders of Napoleon to ease traffic over the pass to Italy. The modern-day road takes the same line, and the uniform gradient and sweeping curves make the 700m climb a joy, even on a bicycle. Technical innovations in transport were also tried and tested in the valley. The Fell railway, which was built from Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne to Susa, was described by the English illustrator, climber and explorer, Edward Whymper, as ‘a marvel’.
Roman remains in Susa
This used a system to climb steep slopes, a precursor to the funicular railway; it followed the
