a good command of English and makes great efforts to welcome English visitors. As always, a game attempt in French is welcomed and the long tradition of catering for travellers throughout the ages means visitors are invariably welcomed and helped. A French phrase book will be a worthwhile investment! You are entering French France.
Rescue is professional and efficient; make sure you have sufficient insurance cover
Insurance and rescue
The European Health Insurance Card (replacement for the E111, forms are available online from Department of Health) allows access to the same standard of healthcare as a French national; this is not free at point of delivery like the NHS so good insurance is also required. Insurance needs to include mountain rescue cover and helicopter evacuation. The two most popular options are Snowcard or BMC. To access BMC insurance you need to be a member of the BMC; if not then the membership fees will need to be taken into consideration which will add to the costs. Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) membership also includes annual rescue and repatriation insurance cover with no age limit. Snowcard insurance allows cover to be customised; if you have house contents cover then possessions are probably already covered so it is possible to purchase medical only or medical with cancellation cover, which is significantly cheaper with Snowcard. If you are a couple then you only pay 1.6 times the single person's premium too. Don't forget to photocopy everything and keep it in a waterproof bag.
Make sure the appropriate Mountain Rescue phone numbers are in your mobile before you need them. This will make dialling them in the case of an emergency much easier than trying to dial a long number under extreme stress with cold fingers in the rain or snow.
European Emergency: 112 (118 in Italy)
Be aware, too, that in many parts of the mountains the phone network connects to the stronger Italian signal so a call to French Mountain Rescue may well be via the Italian emergency services.
Helicopter Communications
Do not wave to a helicopter. To indicate that help is needed hold both arms up in a Y shape (see below). To indicate that no help is needed hold one arm diagonally up and the other diagonally down.
Maps and navigation
The French IGN ‘Top 25’ 1:25,000 maps are excellent. They identify the main paths in easy-to-see red, and more difficult sections are marked as red dots. They are sold at supermarkets and many other shops and cost around €9 each. Alternatively, they can be purchased online before you visit and there is now the option of a laminated version. (This isn't available in France, just in the Aqua3 online map shop.) Termignon is one of those places that is on the join of three maps, so three maps are needed to cover the whole area. An alternative is the 1:50,000 map (the Carte de Randonnées A3: Alps Vanoise) which clearly identifies waymarked walking routes, climbing sites, via ferrata venues and mountain bike areas.
1:25,000 Maps
3534OT Les Trois Vallées Modane
3633ET Tignes, Val d'Isère, Haute Maurienne
3634OT Val Cenis Charbonnel
The most recent editions of these maps show the extent of glacial retreat in a different colour.
If you are bringing a GPS, ensure it is programmed to datum WGS 84 and the grid system to UTM/UPS otherwise all grid references will be inaccurate. Don't forget to reprogramme it to UK settings on your return or the same problems will occur back in the UK.
Unlike the UK, paths are waymarked and signed to a high degree. The signage usually gives information in times rather than distance, and these seem to be calculated with a similar formula to Naismith's Rule of 5km per hour. The red-and-white flashes on rocks, walls and buildings will become familiar friends, and the small cycling symbols will also be a welcome aid to route finding.
A friendly sign with an old walking boot being put to good use!
Weather
Weather forecasts are posted at tourist information offices, usually in French with a simpler version in English. These are updated daily and are for the coming night and next two or three days. They are generally accurate but be aware that they are based on Bourg Saint Maurice to the north and so need to be slightly adapted, particularly the timing of weather fronts approaching. You can get them by phone; the current phone number is listed on the weather reports. If you are staying in a refuge, the guardian can be a good source of information and advice on local conditions.
The summit of Pointe de Leche and Dent Parrachée in the background (Route 21)
The sun can be a significant hazard; your sunscreen should be at least SPF15. Solar radiation at 1800m is more than twice that at sea level.
Good quality sunglasses are another must. If you wear spectacles, Optilab may be worth investigating for prescription sports sunglasses at prices not far off ‘normal’ frames and lenses. Photo-chromatic wrap-around glasses are great for all-day use in a variety of weather conditions. Remember, too, that the solar radiation is still there when its overcast.
Clothing
The weather in the Alps can change very dramatically. Snow can fall at any time of the year, even in August. Valley temperatures can drop to 5°C overnight in the summer. Equally, they can rise to over 30°C in the daytime. Therefore a fairly adaptable range of clothing and equipment is required. Given fairly accurate weather forecasts, it is possible to travel light by choosing appropriate equipment for the given weather. There is always a risk with this strategy, but by choosing some of the real lightweight kit available pack weight can be minimised, something which is really worthwhile when walking at higher altitudes.
For a day walk below the snowline the following ought to be perfectly adequate:
30 litre rucksack
Paclite Gore-Tex jacket
softshell trousers (if the forecast is inclement)
trekking trousers – with zip off legs (if forecast is good)
Merino-blend socks
boots – lightweight Gore-Tex lined or a tougher mountain boot depending on the terrain to be encountered
wicking top – either long sleeve or T shirt
mid-weight fleece
lightweight fleece top
wide-brimmed sun hat
stiff-peaked water-resistant fleece-lined hat
gloves
good quality sunglasses – wrap-around style
Buff (microfibrous, multi-functional headwear)
sunscreen and lip salve
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