trekking pole(s)
2 or 3 litre drinks bladder
lunch
emergency kit – small head torch; mobile phone; insurance documents; money; passport; gaffer tape; GPS
map and compass
guidebook
camera
Wet weather alternatives
With such a range of activities on offer, there is usually something to do. For a rest day, or when the weather has taken a turn for the worse, there are a number of alternatives.
Crossing a simple snow slope is still likely to need crampons (Route 22)
The Maison du Vanoise at Termignon is an interpretation centre that allows you to understand the traditional lifestyle of the valleys and high mountains. One of the highlights is a model of a typical marmot colony enabling you to see exactly where the little critters go when the lookout whistles! The 3D virtual flight through the national park is a new technological attraction which combines a Google Earth type of projection with a large screen and a joystick control. Free internet access is also available, which may be useful for gaining longer term weather forecasts and keeping in touch. Downstairs is the tourist office and outside are the weather reports and an ATM.
Mini-golf Parrachée
The pyramidal visitor centre at the Lac du Mont Cenis is another interesting place to develop an understanding of the area. It has displays of old farming methods and a section on the battle front of the valley during World War II. A short film (in French) gives an impression of the struggle the mountain troops faced. There are some written English explanations and a useful audio guide in English to help you understand the exhibition.
The mini-golf on the road out of Lanslebourg is popular; although the owner insists it is ‘serious’, it is a favourite with children. The Biathlon d'Eté (summer biathlon) centre at Bessans has a permanent summer course for roller skiing, which is like cross-country skiing without the snow. Equipment (including safety pads and helmet) can be hired locally and a day ticket purchased. Instruction is available and rollerblading is also welcome. Courses are colour-graded and surfaced in a smooth tarmac. Falls are inevitable, so jeans, or at least long trousers, are recommended.
The high ropes adventure courses (parcours aventure) at the Redoute Marie Thérèse near Modane and another on the road to Bellecombe from Termignon are sure to be a big hit with children (and those who enjoy thinking they're still ten years old).
There are numerous small artisans offering their wares: glassmaking, pottery and ‘artisan du bois’ abound and vary in style from beautiful to the more acquired taste. A visit to Bois s'Amuse in Sollières offers you a range of very reasonably priced wooden toys and ornaments.
Susa is a small Italian town ‘over the pass’ from Lanslebourg and was an important staging post for the journey from Lyon to Turin. It has a host of Roman remains, including an amphitheatre, triumphal arch and remains of the old wall and aqueduct. On the road over the pass, there are the remains of the covered Fell railway that forms a chapter of Whymper's Scrambles in the Alps.
Should you be in the area, then the refuge and restaurant at Col de l'Iseran has a small exhibition of WWII memorabilia and a gift shop. This is the highest point of the Tour de France when it passes through the area, and you are sure to see road cyclists climbing to the summit of the col.
A fabulous visit for fans of the Winter Olympics must be the Olympic Museum in Albertville, about 1¼hrs from Haute Maurienne. The town makes for a pleasant wander, particularly the old town. The parking in the town centre is very cheap, €2–3 for up to 4hrs. The museum has a host of outfits and artefacts on display and a very interesting short film (with English subtitles) explaining the build-up to the games. Another section has some slightly disturbing reflections on how politicians have hijacked the games for their own ends. A very reasonable entry fee and minimal souvenir shop make you feel that you are welcome to come and enjoy the values of the Olympics.
Crossing the Col du Galibier to explore the walled town of Briançon, the highest town in Europe, is another option. The old town and its maze of streets will be busy on a wet day but there are a number of forts that provide guided tours and a respite from wet weather. Further down the valley is L'Argentière-la-Bessée. This small town has successfully transformed from an industrial town into what may be described as an outdoor capital. It has a white water canoeing course and hosts numerous climbing competitions, as well as being home to the largest ice axe in the world, which stands outside the mairie (town hall). Many of the roads and streets are named after famous mountaineers, so a walk around the town may well turn into a who's who of classic Alpine mountaineering. Nor should you miss the chance to visit the old capital of Savoy, Chambéry, with its elephant statue in the middle of town (a celebration of General de Boigne's exploits in India rather than an indication of Hannibal's passing through the region). The large market on Saturdays, the old town architecture and Dukes' Palace encourage an amble through the maze of backstreets and alleyways. The title of capital of Savoy is also claimed by Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, which is home to the Opinel knife factory, a French classic. The factory houses a small shop offering a wide range of knives and household tools, all of the highest quality.
The Pas de la Beccia with the frontier barbed wire still visible on the skyline (Route 19)
Further afield, a long day out to Chamonix can fulfil all your gear-shopping dreams. Towards the end of July the shops all have a huge clearout sale aimed at the French holiday market. The Quechua outdoor equipment supermarket at Saint Gervais has more incredible bargains. Chamonix has an interesting museum in the centre of town and a (very expensive) cable car trip up Aiguille de Midi is literally breathtaking, at around 3500m. It is always fun to plonk yourself at a pavement table and wonder just why people are wandering around in spotless outdoor kit in the middle of town. The road trip will be 2hrs or more each way.
Air sports are another option. Tandem paragliding is available in Termignon and pleasure flights can be booked from the Sollières airfield. For current information and advice, ask at the tourist office in Termignon.
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