with an ingenious third rail placed in the centre of the track. The rail was ‘gripped’ by two wheels to allow a train to climb much steeper gradients than normal. Once over the pass, the descent to Susa was protected from avalanches by long covered sections. This was such a severe descent that the brake linings had to be replaced after each descent! Remains of these sections can still be seen next to the road today. The railway was an experimental undertaking and was dismantled when the railway tunnel at Frejus was constructed. This tunnel was started in 1857 and the two teams of tunnellers shook hands on 26 December 1870, with the first train travelling in September 1871.
Because of its strategic transport importance, the region has had a strong military presence. The House of Savoy has its origins in Sardinia and in the early 19th century its lands stretched from Lac Léman to the Mediterranean. The Victor Emmanuel Fort complex near Modane is the most striking feature of their reign in the region. The forts were built to repel invasion and each is named for a prominent member of the House of Savoy. The frontier has changed repeatedly (the most obvious example of this is to be found on the slopes of Cime du Laro, Route 19).
One of the many war memorials recording the great losses suffered in the valley right through the war
During WWII the strategic importance of the valley was not lost to either side. The subterranean fort complex near Modane (part of an extended Maginot line built by the French during the military build-up in the 1930s) is a sober reminder of the conflict that came to this beautiful valley. The vicious weather conditions must have made the desperate battles for the high ground on Mont Froid, Pointe de Cugne and Petit Signal du Mont Cenis in April 1945 even more difficult. Footage in the museum at the Pyramide du Mont Cenis of the French soldiers receiving American rations in the snow shows just what the conditions must have been like.
Art and culture
The Maurienne was the road to and from Italy for those taking part in Grand Tours, and this has inevitably left its creative mark, with Baroque architecture and design particularly in evidence. Indeed, one church in Lanslebourg has been converted into a museum of Baroque architecture and artwork. Many other churches and chapels in the valley were designed in this style and are often open for visitors. A number of artisans throughout the valley also encourage visitors and sell direct to the public. The glass-blowing workshop at Avrieux and woodworkers at Sollières welcome visitors and sell unusual pieces made on site. Many dairies give guided tours (usually in French) of milk and cheese production, and also offer ‘vente directe’ for great prices and an opportunity to see the source of such wonderful food. The local cheeses are of international renown and a key ingredient in many a picnic lunch.
Folklore abounds in the mountains and the Haute Maurienne is no exception. In or near Bessans many statues and paintings feature a four-horned devil. According to folklore a local man, Joseph, was contracted to build a bridge over the Arc. He fell behind in his work and was worried that he might end up imprisoned for failing to fulfil his commitment in the allotted time. The Devil appeared and made Joseph an offer that in return for his assistance the Devil would be allowed the soul of the first to cross the bridge. Joseph readily agreed and the bridge was duly completed on time. On the day of the opening, a troop of soldiers were approaching the bridge, led by a small local boy. Knowing what would happen to the boy if he was first to cross, Joseph's wife chased a goat onto the bridge. The goat saw the Devil and, mistaking him for another billy goat, charged him. His horns pierced the Devil's skull and the Devil escaped, never to be seen again.
Another tale gives an ancient account of the formation of the Chasseforêt glacier. ‘Chasse forêt’ translates as hunting forest, and this tale begins with a group of herdsmen tending their herds and flocks on the high mountain pastures and forest land. While they were engrossed in milking the cows and goats a beggar woman approached and asked for some milk. The men refused and sent her away with some strong words. She cursed the men and vowed they would regret their decision. That evening it began to snow. The snow continued to fall throughout the following days, steadily covering the pasture and forest. Eventually they were covered by such an accumulation of snow it began to turn to ice, putting the pasture out of reach of the herdsmen. The curse is said to have cut those pastures off for ever.
A typical lunch high in the mountains, Dents des Ambin in the background
A more recent tale features Flambeau, a dog who throughout the 1930s delivered post to the fort high on the summit of Mont Froid. For ten years he made his way each day from Lanslebourg to the fort with the military mail and then returned home. In pride of place in Lanslebourg high street is a memorial stone to this epic journey and faithful canine postman.
In this area, pride in traditional ways of life is very evident. Traditional dress is celebrated and hospitality centres on the fabulous local produce. There are many local shows and festivals celebrating all things agricultural and rural. Highlights include a wonderful community re-enactment of the Nativity in December at Bessans, the National Accordion Festival in Termignon in January, and a five-day husky dog sled race (le Grand Odyssée) throughout the valley in January. Any of these would add interest to a winter ski holiday. The summer festivals include a week-long astronomy festival, taking advantage of clear skies and the minimal light pollution to star gaze. The French national holiday on 15 August is cause to celebrate food and farming, with festivals and events throughout the valley. Sheep shearing and herding are demonstrated, along with dances and traditional dress parades. A growing mountain sports festival in August encourages novices and children to try a range of outdoor sports in collaboration with the local mountain guiding bureaus. The local tourist offices produce a free weekly newsletter outlining the upcoming events.
Travel
The Maurienne valley is served by very good transport links, and travelling to the valley by public transport is perfectly feasible. Modane serves as the gateway to the upper valley and has a railway station with links from Paris and Turin, served by the TGV. The journey from Paris to Modane is around 4hrs, and by taking the Eurostar from St Pancras to Paris the journey can be both quick and environmentally responsible (without the complex baggage limits of airlines). Buses and taxis are readily available from the station into the upper reaches of the valley.
Lanslebourg in bloom
The A43 motorway enters the valley on its way to Turin and probably is the transport link many people will use. The favoured route is Calais-Reims-Dijon-Lyon-Chambéry-Modane. This avoids Paris and its associated traffic problems. In 2010 the motorway tolls were around €70 each way. A reasonable travel time from Calais is 10 to 11hrs. Taking an afternoon crossing and driving to the Champagne region will break the journey. Troyes is a beautiful medieval town with a pedestrianised town centre and countless Tudor-style buildings. The next day's journey is then around 6hrs and makes for an afternoon arrival in the valley.
Budget hotel chains Formule1 and Etap offer good value, basic accommodation when you are travelling, and you can arrive any time as you can swipe your credit card at the door to gain access to your room. This means you can travel further later into the evening, but make sure you pre-book online.
Viamichelin is a useful route-planning website. It has information on the tolls for motorways and speed cameras; it also allows you to print out plans with the motorway signs included, which is of great help to the less confident co-driver.
On a Saturday in school summer holidays a good portion of Europe is travelling through France, and you would be well advised to avoid being part of the masses if at all possible – queues of an hour or more at booths for the Péage (toll roads) are not uncommon. The credit card lanes seem to move quicker.
Flying
