Shunju. Takashi Sugimoto

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Shunju - Takashi Sugimoto

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and repeat the process before brushing with the soy sauce.

      3 Place each bamboo shoot on a cutting board, then slice in half lengthwise. Remove the shoot from the skin and slice crosswise into bite-sized pieces. Discard the most charred outer skins, then arrange the remaining skin into its original form and arrange the bamboo shoot on the skin. Serve immediately.

      Bamboo shoot rice cooked in a stone pot

      Takenoko meshi no ishi gam a daki

      Serves 4

      2 teaspoons vegetable oil

      1/4 taka no tsume (dried hot red chili)

      2 oz (60 g) takenoko (fresh bamboo shoots (for preparation see page 253), sliced into batons 2 in (5 cm) long and 1/2 in (5 mm) thick; substitute with vacuum-packed boiled whole bamboo shoot

      1 teaspoon natural sea salt

      1/3 cup (90 ml) katsuo dashi (bonito stock) (for preparation see page 248)

      1 teaspoon white sesame seeds

      1 cup (200 g) Japanese rice (see page 260 for washing instructions)

      3/4 cup (200 ml) water

      2 tablespoons Korean virgin sesame oil

      The most popular way of serving bamboo shoot is to cook it with rice or braise it with seaweed. As you will notice throughout this book, we have borrowed many ideas and ingredients from Korean cuisine, and the stone pot is one of the most important of these, along with aromatic Korean virgin sesame oil. Although we cook many of our flavored rice dishes, as well as plain rice, in a stone pot—it cooks excellent rice and produces a nice crunchy crust— any heavy-bottomed enameled pot will do the trick.

      1 Heat the vegetable oil in a saucepan over low heat and sauté the red chili. Add the bamboo shoot batons and increase heat to high. Add the salt and continue to sauté until the bamboo shoot baton is slightly browned. Stir continuously with a wooden spatula to prevent the shoots burning on the bottom of the pan.

      2 When the bamboo shoot batons are slightly browned, add bonito stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until most of the liquid is reduced. Add the sesame seeds, check for seasoning, and set aside to cool.

      3 Place the washed rice and water in a stone pot, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. When it reaches a rolling boil, remove from the heat and leave to stand for 10 minutes. Then return to high heat for 5 minutes. This develops a delicious crunchy crust at the bottom of the pot. If you do not own a stone pot, cook the rice following the instructions on page 260. Allow to stand for 10 minutes, then heat over high heat for a further 5 minutes.

      4 Open the lid and slowly drizzle sesame oil around the inside wall of the pot. Leave to stand for a few minutes, then add the sautéed bamboo shoot. Carry the stone pot to the table—be sure to wear thick oven gloves and use a stand or mat. to protect the table as the pot becomes extremely hot.

      5 Stir the rice at the table and divide into individual rice bowls. Make sure that every bowl gets some of the deliciously pungent crunchy crust and some bamboo shoot batons.

      Deep-fried bamboo shoots with dried bonito flakes

      Takenoko no tosa age

      Serves 4

      1 egg

      6-in (15-cm) takenoko (fresh bamboo shoots) (for preparation see page 253); substitute with vacuum-packed boiled whole bamboo shoot

      2 tablespoons bai niku (salted plum paste)

      1 1/2 cups (15 g) kezuri bushi (dried bonito flakes)

      6 cups (1 1/2 liters) vegetable oil

      8 kinome (young sansho leaves), to garnish

      Zukushi is to indulge in one ingredient to prepare a full-course meal consisting entirely of that one food item. If you are fortunate enough to have access to fresh bamboo shoots, try preparing a full-course meal using bamboo shoots and prepare this dish for one of the courses.

      1 Beat the egg in a bowl large enough for dipping the bamboo shoot slices.

      2 Slice the bamboo shoot lengthwise into 4 wedges. Make a lengthwise incision on the thick part of the wedge, about 1/2 in (1 cm) deep. Using a knife, spread the salted plum paste into this incision.

      3 Put the bonito shavings in a saucepan over low heat and crumple them with your hands so they dry further and break into fine pieces. Place in a flat container large enough to roll the bamboo shoot slices.

      4 Pour the vegetable oil in a saucepan and heat to 325°F (160°C). Dip the bamboo shoot wedges into the egg and coat evenly. Next, coat each wedge evenly with the bonito shavings, then carefully slip into the oil and deep-fry. Turn the bamboo shoots occasionally so that they are fried evenly. When nicely browned, remove from the oil with a slotted spoon. Gently shake above the pan to remove any excess oil and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately, garnished with fresh kinome leaves.

      Bamboo shoot sashimi

      Takenoko no sashimi

      Serves 4

      4 teaspoons sake

      8 teaspoons koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)

      6-in (15-cm) takenoko (fresh bamboo shoots) (for preparation see page 253)

      2 sprigs kinome (young sansho leaves), to garnish

      1 teaspoon fresh wasabi, grated, substitute with frozen fresh or tube wasabi

      Koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce), to accompany wasabi

      The name of this recipe says sashimi but, in fact, the bamboo shoo" is not served raw. It is referred to as sashimi because this dish can only be made if you have freshly dug bamboo shoots, hence in the same context as having immaculately fresh seafood. The sweet flavor and crunchy texture is indescribable.

      1 Pour sake into a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat to boil off the alcohol content. Cool and combine with soy sauce. Set aside.

      2 Slice the bamboo shoot length-wise into thin slices, about 3/4 in (2 cm) thick. Arrange on a serving platter and garnish with fresh kinome sprigs. Place the grated wasabi on the

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