salt crystals start to appear. When the crystals start to gather into larger crystals, the liquid on the top is the nigari. This method will yield about 4 1/2 tablespoons nigari. Cool in the pot, then scoop the surface of the settled nigari, and pour through a fine sieve lined with paper towel or cheese cloth. If you do not live by the ocean, dissolve 1 1/2 teaspoons Epsom salts in 1 cup (250 ml) water and use about one-third of this solution.
Green bean soymilk yuba
Ryokuto nama yuba
Serves 4
Pinch natural sea salt
13 1/2 oz (420 g) endomame (shelled green peas), substitute with edamame (podded green soybeans) or soramame (fava/broad beans)
5 cups (1 1/4 liters) homemade soymilk (see page 254)
2 tablespoons fresh wasabi, substitute with frozen fresh or tube wasabi
Koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)
Yuba, a famous Kyoto delicacy is the film that forms on the surface when soymilk is heated, somewhat akin to the film which form son the surface of heated milk. This film absorbs the majority of the protein contained in soymilk and, at over 52 percent, is the richest source of protein known to exist. Nearly all fresh yuba is produced in Kyoto but due to its labor intensive method of production and the high refrigerated transportation costs, it tends to be very expensive. At Shunju, we are able to make our own yuba because of the abundant amount of soymilk that we extract for our home-made tofu. In this recipe, we have made our own green version with a green bean pureé. It will keep refrigerated for one day.
1 Bring a pan of salted water to a boil and cook the shelled green peas until tender. Drain.
2 Transfer the peas to a blender and add one-quarter of the soymilk. Blend until the peas are finely ground. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve and mash any remaining bits. Pour scant 1/2 cup (100 ml) of this green soymilk into a flat non-reactive container (such as tupperware) and set aside.
3 Pour the rest of the green soymilk mixture and the remaining plain soymilk into a pot and heat over medium heat, scraping the bottom of the pot, to prevent it from burning. When it reaches 176°F (80°C), remove from the heat and wait for the yuba to form on the surface. You can leave it and check on it from time to time. (See page 254.)
4 Lift the film out carefully with chopsticks and soak in the reserved green soymilk. Make sure that the surface of the film is completely coated to prevent it from drying out. Heat the soymilk again and repeat this procedure until no more yuba forms. Discard remaining soymilk.
5 Cover the yuba soaking in the green soymilk with plastic wrap or a lid, and chill in the refrigerator. Serve chilled with freshly grated wasabi and soy sauce (see page 255).
Sea bream salad
Tai no kaisen salada
Serves 1
1/2 kyuri (Japanese cucumber), about 1 1/2 oz (20 g); substitute with English cucumber
1/2 small carrot about 2/3 oz (20 g)
3/4-oz (20-g) naga negi (long welsh onion), substitute with white part of scallion (spring onion)
2 1/4 oz (70 g) radish
6 1/2 oz (200 g) sea bream
1 egg/lightly beaten
Oil for preparing omelet
Salad dressing
1 /2 clove garlic
Pinch minced ginger
3/4 oz (20 g) naga negi (long welsh onion), substitute with white part of scallion (spring onion)
1 heaped tablespoon kochujang (Korean red chili paste), or to taste
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Pinch natural sea salt
3 tablespoons ponzu sauce (available bottled, or see recipe below)
Ponzu sauce
5 tablespoons sake
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) fresh or bottled kabosu juice (a kind of citrus, L. citrus sphaerocarpa), substitute with fresh lemon juice
1 handful kezuri bushi (dried bonito flakes)
2 sudachi (small acidic citrus fruit), halved, substitute with lemons
4 x 7-in (10 x 18-cm) sheet konbu (kelp), gently wiped clean (leaving the flavorful white powder on the konbu)
Tangy and light, this refreshing dish is perfect for spring. If you live in Japan, be sure to ask for tennen dal (wild sea bream). Although it is more expensive than the normal farmed sea bream (tai), you will taste the difference. You can substitute sea bream with other firm-fleshed white fish, just make sure the fish is absolutely fresh. You can determine the freshness of fish by the firmness of its flesh, the sheen of its scales and eyes, the firm adherence of the scales, and by the bright red color of its gills or the translucent, shimmering color of its flesh.
1 To prepare the salad dressing, mince together the garlic, ginger, and naga negi, transfer the mixture to a bowl, and stir in the remaining dressing ingredients. Set aside.
2 Slice the cucumber, carrot, and naga negi into needle-thin slivers and refresh in cold water (see page 251). Cut the radish into paper-thin slices and refresh this too in cold water.
3 Prepare the sea bream into a three-section fillet (see page 244) and sogi giri cut (see page 247). Place the sea bream on your cutting board skin side up, the thinner side closer to you. Slice into 3/4-in (1 1/2-cm) thick slices by slicing on a diagonal slant. Arrange slices in a circular pattern on the dish.
4 Pour the egg into a lightly oiled skillet and make a very thin omelet. Remove from the skillet, cool, then roll and slice into needle-thin slivers.
5 Lightly toss the vegetable slivers together and pile high on top of the sea bream slices and garnish with the egg slivers.
6 Pour the dressing on the salad just before serving.
Ponzu sauce
1 In a saucepan, bring sake to a boil over high heat to burn off the alcohol. Remove from heat and cool.
2 In a sealable container, or a wide-mouthed bottle, large enough to accommodate all the liquid, pour the soy
