Shunju. Takashi Sugimoto

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Shunju - Takashi Sugimoto

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and kabosu juice and mix thoroughly. Add the cooled sake, bonito flakes, and konbu. Squeeze the liquid from the sudachi into the container, then add in the squeezed fruit.

      3 Let the sauce rest in a cool place or in the refrigerator overnight. Strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. This recipe yields abut 3 cups (800 ml) ponzu sauce and will keep for 2 months refrigerated.

      Clam and udo salad

      Aoyagi to udo no aemono

      Serves 4

      1 stalk udo, about 1 lb (500 g), substitute with white asparagus

      2 teaspoons su (rice vinegar)

      8 sashimi-quality akagai (fresh hen clams), about 3 oz (80 g), shelled, rinsed, and sliced lengthwise into 3 pieces

      8 shiso (peri 11 a) leaves

      1 oz (25 g) menegi (welsh onion sprouts), substitute with chives

      Salad dressing

      4 teaspoons koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)

      1 tablespoon fresh wasabi, substitute with frozen fresh or tube wasabi

      8 teaspoons vegetable oil

      Like all other shellfish except abalone, aoyagi —or hen clam—is a spring delicacy. It is blanched briefly, then tossed in a simple dressing with another spring delicacy, udo, a stalk plant somewhat similar in taste and fragrance to white asparagus. Wild udo belongs to the category of sansai, or spring mountain vegetables, but the udo used in this recipe is the cultivated variety, possessing a milder flavor which does not overpower the shellfish. Because it is grown in the dark, it has a snow-white color.

      1 Cut the udo into 1 1/2-in (4-cm) lengths and peel. Slice each piece in half lengthwise, then each half lengthwise into thin slices, and finally the thin slices into matchstick slivers. Soak in some water with vinegar added to remove the acid.

      2 To make the dressing, combine the soy sauce, wasabi, and vegetable oil. Set aside.

      3 Blanch the clams in hot water, about 190°F (80°C), and refresh in iced water.

      4 Toss the clams and udo with the dressing, divide into 8 portions, and arrange each portion on a shiso leaf. Garnish with menegi or chives.

      Sea eel braised with spring burdock root

      Anago to shin gobo ni

      Serves 4

      11 oz (320 g) sashimi-quality anago (fillet of conger eel), substitute with other eel or any firm-fleshed white fish (but not with braised eel commonly found in Japanese grocery stores)

      6 1/2 oz (200 g) burdock root, soaked in water with a little vinegar

      1 1/4 cups (300 ml) katsuo dashi (bonito stock) (for preparation see page 248)

      2 tablespoons koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)

      3 1/2 tablespoons mirin

      Ginger juice, obtained by peeling, grating, and squeezing ginger

      This is a wonderfully light braised spring dish. The burdock root is rich in dietary fiber and vitamins but it is bitter and should always be soaked in water with vinegar before using. The shavings should just be lightly braised so that they retain their crunchy texture. Anago, conger eel, is quite rich in fat and compliments the burdock root well.

      1 Place the eel on a cutting board above the sink, skin side up, and pour boiling water evenly over it. Remove any slime from the skin by running the spine (the blunt side) of a knife over the skin.

      2 Wash and peel the burdock root by scrubbing it, then shave it (as you would sharpen a pencil) with a knife, turning it slowly until you have shaved the entire root. Soak the shavings in water for 10 minutes, then drain and reserve.

      3 In a saucepan large enough to fit the eel, bring the stock, soy sauce, and mirin to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the eel (if the eel is too long, cut it in half), and simmer for 5 minutes.

      4 Remove the eel carefully so that it does not break. Cut across into bitesize pieces. Arrange in serving bowl, pile the braised burdock root on top, add the ginger juice to the remaining liquid, and slowly pour on top. Serve immediately.

      Grilled fava beans and new onions

      Yaki soramame to shin tamanegi

      Serves 4

      8 soramame (fava/broad beans) in their pods

      Natural sea salt

      3 new onions, about 10 oz (300 g) each

      In Japan, fava (broad) beans, or soramame (literally "heavenly beans"), are an important spring vegetable. They are normally boiled in salt water out of their pods, but at Shunju, where charcoal grilling is an important method of cooking, we have discovered that these beans are delicious grilled in their pods. The heat is trapped and, consequently, the beans are steamed to perfection inside their pods. The same holds true for the sweet new onions which also arrive in spring.

      1 Soak the fava beans in their pods in water for a few minutes, then sprinkle them liberally with salt.

      2 Remove any wilted outer skins from the onion but be sure to leave the rest of the skin intact.

      3 Grill the beans and onions on a charcoal grill or broil under an oven grill until their skin is charred and they are soft to touch, or are easily pierced with a skewer. You should grill the onions first as they take longer to cook.

      4 Alternatively, bake the beans and onions in a 350°F (180°C, gas 4) oven, 10 minutes for the onions, and about 5 minutes for the beans.

      5 Serve piping hot with some sea salt on the side, or with the spicy miso dip (see page 94).

      Ark shell sashimi with grated Japanese yam and vinegar

      Aka gai no tororo jitate

      Serves 4

      1/4 cup (60 ml) su (rice vinegar)

      2 tablespoons koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)

      2

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