to convert many more from the ranks of hill walkers and rock climbers. This is not an entirely comforting thought. Unroped scrambling, however exhilarating it may be, is potentially the most dangerous form of mountaineering. There have been times when – alone, unroped and in trouble halfway up some remote and uncharted face – I have vowed never to go into the mountains again. I break the vow regularly, but grow ever more cautious. There is no way of entirely eliminating the risk, only of reducing it. No mountain is worth a life, yet without mountains perhaps no worthwhile life remains to be lived.
Steve Ashton, 1992
UPDATERS’ NOTE
It has been a privilege to work on this inspirational book, and one that we have not taken lightly. In preparation for this extensively updated third edition, we have climbed and checked all the original routes, some of them many times. Grades have been reappraised and descriptions revised as necessary. After much thought, five of the routes from the previous edition have been relocated to the book’s supporting webpage on the Cicerone website, www.cicerone.co.uk/890/updates. In contrast, 16 additional routes have been included in the book. All are in keeping with the original premise of the book and allow scramblers to venture onto the best lines in a wider area of the national park, as well as to explore a greater number of excellent lines on the northern mountains.
We share Steve’s sobering sentiment regarding the use of this guide. Although grade 3 scrambles are now more commonly climbed with a rope, we have tried to clarify where there is a higher element of risk by introducing the 3S grade – the ‘S’ being severe, serious or, when tackling their hardest parts, an expletive of your choice! Taking into account scramblers’ feedback about the last edition, we have tried to provide extra information about finding and following the routes that are less frequented. Ultimately though, the difference between a superb mountain day and an unmitigated disaster is the experience and common sense of the party. The freedom of scrambling is life-affirming, yet it must be taken seriously.
Carl McKeating and Rachel Crolla, 2017
A fine crest on the Cyfrwy Arête with Llyn y Gadair beyond (Route 79)
INTRODUCTION
Area covered by the guide
Nearly all the described routes lie within the northern half of the Snowdonia National Park, where the most rugged mountains are found. Good scrambling in the southern half is scarce, the rock here being typically loose or vegetated, but a handful of good routes have been included.
Northern Snowdonia naturally divides into four regions. From north to south these are: the Carneddau, the Glyders, the Snowdon group and Eifionydd. The best scrambles will be found in the Glyders, with the large majority concentrated on Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr. The Snowdon group also boasts many excellent routes, whereas the Carneddau and the Eifionydd regions provide only a handful. In this book, each region is introduced by a general description of the terrain and an indication of the scrambling potential. The best routes in the outlying areas of the Rhinogs, Moelwyns and Cadair Idris have been added to the updated edition of this guide to give wider coverage of the Snowdonia National Park.
Selection of routes
The choice of routes is, by necessity and design, a selective one. All the best scrambles, along with the most worthwhile routes in the outlying areas, have been included. The range of difficulty extends from scrambly walks to short sections of proper rock climbing. Average fitness and a head for heights will suffice at one end of the scale, whereas nothing short of mountaineer’s skill and daring will do at the other. Some routes fit neither category: scrambling over loose rock and up dripping, vegetated gullies seems to require a special cunning, for which neither hill walking nor rock climbing provides adequate preparation. The proficient all-round scrambler is a unique beast with some cautionary tales to tell.
Using this guide (including explanation of grades)
Route information boxes
Basic information has been included in a box at the start of each route in order to help readers decide whether the scramble is suitable for them. The headings are fairly self-explanatory: ‘Location’ refers to the mountain or mountain group where the scramble can be found and the grid references given here refer to the location of the actual scramble. (Parking details and corresponding grid references can be found in the longer ‘Approach’ section at the start of the main route description.) ‘Approach time’ is provided from the point at which most people would begin walking, up until the start of the scrambling. ‘Altitude’ is the height at which the scrambling, rather than the approach, begins. ‘Aspect’ simply refers to the approximate direction the route faces. The ‘Route length’ information is a rather subjective estimate of how much scrambling you can expect to find and whether the route is a long or short outing. This should be treated with caution because people move at vastly different speeds on steep ground, especially if ropework is sometimes involved. Approximate scrambling vertical height gains are often included, but again it is worth bearing in mind that scrambles are rarely vertical. The ‘Conditions’ heading is essential reading; it takes account of aspects such as rock quality and weather.
For the longer ridge circuits that include more than one scramble, such as the Snowdon Horseshoe, a rough circuit time based on an average unroped party has also been included.
Route descriptions
After an introduction and approach description, the routes are described generally or in detail according to the intricacy of the terrain. Remember that the described line is often only one of several ways of ascending the face. Use it as a guide, but be prepared to find easier or harder variations as the situation demands. A ‘Descent by this route’ section gives advice on using the route as a descent; if this section is not present, a descent is impractical or unduly difficult.
Descents and combinations have been given for all the routes to suggest interesting combinations for those seeking a longer mountaineering day. (See also Appendix B.)
Within route descriptions, alternative options are given as bullet points.
Early on the Cwm Glas Ridge with Esgair Felen behind (Route 63)
Route classification
The routes have been classified 1, 2, 3 or 3S, according to difficulty and level of risk. The progression from the very easiest grade 1 routes, such as the Southern Ridge Circuit or Seniors’ Gully, through to the hardest grade 2 routes, such as Bastow Buttress or Bryant’s Gully, is considerable; this increase in standard should not be underestimated. To give as much detail as possible we have sub-divided the grades for this edition. Borderline cases formally indicated by a grade of 1/2 or 2/3 are now indicated by the use of + or - symbols. However, it is impossible to apply any grading system rigorously, and at best it can serve only as a rough guide.
Above the Great Pinnacle Gap on Bristly Ridge (Routes 8 and 30)
Grade 1: This grade denotes routes that require no special mountaineering skills (eg Snowdon Horseshoe, Tryfan North Ridge, Bristly Ridge), and which should be within the capability of any adventurous and experienced hill walker with a head for heights. These routes are unlikely to require rope protection, and may be considered for descent or during doubtful weather.
