Scrambles in Snowdonia. Rachel Crolla

      The initial slabs on Direct Approach to Seniors’ Ridge (Route 44)

      Grade 2: Things are getting much more serious now. These include the difficult gullies and ridges, and the easier face routes (eg Y Gully, Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders, North Buttress Variant). You may have to wait for optimum weather conditions, and even then difficulties that require rope protection may be encountered. Grade 2 routes often involve short passages of Moderate grade rock climbing. A wide experience of scrambling, or a background in mountaineering, is essential. Such routes are rarely suitable for descent. Note also that a grade 2 climbed unroped may be potentially far more dangerous than a grade 3 climbed with rope protection.

      Grade 2-: Routes that provide an introduction to the grade (eg Llechog Ridge, South Face of Rhinog Fawr).

      Grade 2+: The hardest routes in the grade (eg Bastow Buttress, Bryant’s Gully).

      Grade 3: These routes have the attributes of grade 2 scrambles but with the additional complication of one or more short ‘pitches’ of simple rock climbing, often up to Difficult standard, on which rope protection is usual (eg Chasm Face, Dolmen Ridge). Someone whose background is limited to hill walking and scrambling will need to acquire a knowledge of basic rope technique before attempting these routes – in particular an ability to select belay anchors, fix running belays, and, in the event of a forced retreat, to abseil.

      Grade 3-: Routes that offer an introduction to the grade (eg Craig Lloer Spur, South Gully, South Ridge Variant Rhinog Fach).

      Grade 3S: Particularly challenging grade 3 terrain (eg Yr Esgair, Devil’s Kitchen, Jammed Boulder Gully). The scrambles given grade 3S have more sustained or exposed passages of Difficult grade rock climbing or crux sections on wet or suspect rock. They present mountaineering experiences where good judgement and knowledge of rope work are essential. Experienced climbers who solo grade 3 scrambles should be wary of 3S routes.

      Star ratings

      Routes have been allocated a quality rating from zero to three stars. Obviously this is a subjective assessment, although few will argue over the merits or otherwise of routes at either end of the scale:

Equipment

      Small first aid kit: Essential and should include: bandages, plasters, antiseptic cream/wipes, sun cream and surgical swabs. A tiny roll of duct tape can be surprisingly advantageous for holding swabs and plasters in place.

      Whistle,compass and head torch.

      Clothing: Your normal hill-walking clothing will generally be suitable for scrambling, but ensure that it gives adequate free movement for high leg and arm reaches. Mountain weather is changeable; it is wise to always pack a lightweight waterproof. Fingerless gloves or liner gloves that offer sensitivity and grip can be useful for scrambling up cold or wet rock but are no substitute for the sensitivity offered by gloveless hands.

      Footwear: Specialist climbing approach shoes designed for scrambling and easy climbs are produced by all the major climbing brands and are recommended for scramblers venturing onto the grade 2 and 3 routes. However, be aware that approach shoes have their downsides: their soft soles can wear down very quickly; they offer very little ankle support; are no fun during boggy or wet approaches; and are not great on mud, wet grass or angular scree. Lightweight walking boots, particularly those with a firm (not rigid) rather than floppy midsole, are also good for scrambling – especially on easier routes that involve a lot of hiking. Rigid-soled mountaineering boots are unnecessarily clumsy and uncomfortable for scrambling.

      Rucksack: Choose a neat daysack, ideally fitted with stabilising waist and chest straps but with as few other fittings as possible. Remember, ‘light is right!’

      Rope: The typical 50m or 60m single and double ropes used for climbing are unduly heavy and cumbersome for scrambling, where a rope is often needed only for a short section of the overall route. The best compromise might be 30–50m of 9mm diameter half-rope. Half-rope can be used double in ascent and will allow significant abseils. Better, although more expensive, is a specialised superlight 9mm single rope. If using either a half-rope or a narrow diameter single rope, scramblers should be aware of its limitations: it is unlikely to be ‘sharp-edge’ tested and will wear out faster.

      Note

      The Devil’s Kitchen (Route 49) requires an abseil. Yr Esgair (Route 53) requires exactly 50m of rope to reach a good belay on its hard step.

      It is essential your rope is a climbing rope with a ‘dynamic’ quality (in other words it must be capable of stretching to help absorb the energy of a fall), so it is no use buying caving or yachting rope, which has a low-stretch ‘static’ quality. Note that rope sold off the reel in 8mm diameters or less for making into runners and slings is low-stretch ‘static’ rope and should not be used as a main rope for scrambling. The rope should carry the UIAA label of approval.