the scope of this guide. Rock climbers and mountaineers will be able to adapt their normal belay methods to suit scrambling terrain. Hill walkers will need instruction from experienced companions. Failing that, they may wish to enrol on a course at an outdoor centre (advertised online or in specialist climbing/outdoor magazines). Climbing instruction guidebooks and reputable online videos are invaluable reference points, but are no substitute for face-to-face instruction and practice.
Maps
The vast majority of routes appear on the OS Explorer OL17 1:25,000 Snowdon – Conwy Valley sheet. The Rhinogs are covered by OL18 and Cadair Idris by OL23. The location of every scramble in this book is shown on OS mapping in the relevant chapters. For longer ridge circuits and lengthy isolated outings, the entire routes are shown on the maps. Do not rely on a smartphone as a substitute for a map.
Strutting up the Catwalk of the Chasm Face (Route 31)
Access
Approaches have been carefully described to avoid crossing land where access is restricted or in dispute. Improvising unrecognised approaches across lower pastures merely antagonises farmers. Besides, there is plenty of scope for wandering at will on the higher ground.
Bases
For the Carneddau and Glyders routes, a base in the Ogwen Valley is best. Those with private transport will find anywhere between Capel Curig and Bethesda will do. Both villages provide basic amenities and a range of accommodation can be found throughout the valley, including campsites (those offering facilities are marked on OS maps – enquire locally for other sites); bunkhouses; youth hostels (Idwal and Capel Curig – the latter is now privately run); bed and breakfast; and hotels.
For routes in the Snowdon group, the best bases are the Llanberis Pass and, to a lesser extent, Nant Gwynant. Both have campsites and bunkhouse accommodation (Nant Peris has two campsites and a pub). Bed and breakfast and hotel accommodation, along with amenities, can be found in and around Llanberis and Beddgelert and there are youth hostels at Bryn Gwynant, Llanberis, the Snowdon Ranger at Llyn Cwellyn and Pen y Pass.
Most people will visit Eifionydd and the outlying areas from a base in the northern mountains or on separate trips. Dolgellau is a good base for Cadair Idris.
Further information can be found in Appendix C.
Public transport
Regular rail and bus services link Conwy to Bangor and Betws-y-Coed. Bus routes from Caernarfon extend only as far as Nant Peris and Beddgelert. At the time of writing there was no service along the Ogwen Valley road from Bethesda to Capel Curig – a situation likely to change. In summer the Sherpa bus service makes a circuit around the Snowdon group by linking Beddgelert and Nant Peris via Pen y Gwryd. This service is extremely useful, allowing car owners to park and ride up to Pen y Pass and facilitating other unusual combinations of ascent and descent routes (search Sherpa bus timetable for details).
The remote cliffs of Craig Cwm Du (Route 75)
Accidents and emergencies
Always carry a small first aid kit (see ‘Equipment’) and know how to use it. Consider attending an emergency first aid course including CPR. The National Mountain Centre (www.pyb.co.uk) runs these in Snowdonia and St John Ambulance (www.sja.org.uk) has details of affordable, regular courses across the UK.
With minor injuries, especially during cold or wet weather, it is nearly always best to keep moving – so attempt to descend the mountain by a known route. The danger from hypothermia in mountains is often much greater than the danger from a broken arm or a sprained ankle. Use a whistle to summon help from others on the mountain (sequence of six blasts). Head torch flashes are common on these mountains at night and less likely to raise an alarm (use a sequence of six flashes).
Take responsibility for your own safety. Mountain rescue should only be used as a last resort; teams in Llanberis and Ogwen Valley have seen a massive increase in callouts over the last few years, many of which could easily have been avoided.
Looking across Nor’ Nor’ Buttress at a coastguard rescue helicopter, East Face of Tryfan
To alert mountain rescue
Even in areas with no mobile phone signal, there is a high chance 999 will connect. Dial 999, ask for police/mountain rescue, and try to have the following details ready:
precise position of the injured person on the crag (eg name of route)
location of the crag (including grid reference if possible)
time and nature of accident
extent of injuries
indication of prevailing weather at the scene (cloud base, wind strength, visibility, etc).
Keep the phone to hand until met by a member of the emergency services.
Rescue helicopters
Secure all loose equipment before arrival of helicopter (weight rucksacks and jackets, for example, with stones).
Identify yourself by raising your arms in a ‘V’ as helicopter approaches. Do not wave.
Protect injured person from rotor downdraught (which is intense).
Allow winchman to land without interfering.
Do not approach helicopter unless directed to do so by one of the crew.
A final cautionary note
A guidebook of this sort reflects the author’s and updaters’ reactions and responses to the routes. Not everyone will agree on the exact lines to follow, the levels of difficulty encountered, or the best techniques to apply. The author climbed all the routes personally, specifically with the guide in mind, and at least once in every case without rope protection. All routes have been re-climbed by the updaters for this edition, often several times and in various conditions and ways. Nevertheless, when faced by an unexpected route-finding problem you must be prepared to trust your own mountain sense or judgement.
The same goes for loose rock encountered on the routes. Coping with unstable blocks, shattered rock and treacherous vegetation is all part of the game. Even the easiest scrambles can never be made completely safe, and some are potentially more dangerous than most rock climbs.
All the described scrambles are ‘summer’ routes. Even the simplest of them would be a totally different proposition in winter conditions, when ice-axe, crampons and winter-climbing skills are required. Remember that even when snow is absent the rocks may be coated in verglas – the thin veneer of ice rendering an ascent extremely difficult and dangerous.
A further consideration: the proliferation of indoor climbing and localised bouldering in the years since the last edition of this guide has led to a generation of technically gifted climbers who have
