Ty Du Face (including Pinnacle Ridge and Porcupine Ridge) 2+Exposed scrambling on an introductory ridge followed by a big hike to reach the rock arêtes of the upper face that lead, with increasing difficulty and excitement, to the summit slopes.
| Location | Pen yr Ole Wen, Ogwen (SH 648 611) |
| Grade | 2+** |
| Approach time | 15min |
| Altitude and aspect | 360m, west |
| Route length | Despite the short approach, a lengthy outing with over 500m of height gain – allow plenty of time. Pinnacle Ridge on its own offers a quick burst of scrambling when time is limited. |
| Conditions | West-facing and quick-drying, this is a good choice when the north faces are likely to be cold or damp. Nevertheless, it is worth waiting for dry rock, especially for the airy pinnacles. The less-frequented Porcupine Ridge requires an astute judgement of holds, although the rock is generally sound. Good visibility is vital for the approach to Porcupine Ridge. |
A huge, complex face of ribs and gullies rises above the Nant Ffrancon Pass, appearing to provide endless opportunities for the scrambler. Unfortunately there are two main drawbacks: first, a large part of the lower slope consists of unstable scree which threatens to cascade onto the road at the first ill-judged step and thus limits the access; and second, a wide band of heather at mid-height seriously affects continuity. The selected route does its best to avoid both scree and heather and despite its shortcomings redeems itself with some exciting situations and, on the upper face, a genuine sense of exploration.
Many parties will choose to ascend only the easily accessible and popular Pinnacle Ridge – a good outing when short on time. For those intrepid enough to venture onwards to the Porcupine Ridge, they will find it surpasses the first ridge and is worth every drop of sweat exerted in reaching it. There is, perhaps, no better place to be in the late afternoon sunshine than on the Porcupine Ridge.
Approach
Park at Ogwen Cottage (SH 649 604) – approximately 150m east of YHA Idwal Cottage – or at the overspill parking areas further east. Leave the A5 at the Alfred Embleton stile, on the north side of the road bridge over the stream outlet from Llyn Ogwen, and follow the main Pen yr Ole Wen path for 80m. Turn left on a grassy path near some round stone shelters and follow the well-walked path to the base of the couloir on the right of the distinctive slender twin pinnacles that become identifiable on the approach. Ascend the couloir directly until a low dry stone wall is reached. A clear path accesses a scrappy part of the ridge 10m below the wall, although a pleasant grass gangway 10m above the wall provides the best access to the ridge.
Ascent
Use the gangway to gain the ridge. Follow the crest to a ledge then ascend a 3m step, slightly on the right using large holds, to gain another ledge. An exposed traverse of the pinnacles awaits. They can be taken on their couloir flank leading to a heather shoulder and slender grass col, but few will want to miss the photogenic ascent of the second pinnacle. This can be climbed and traversed on its west side at an exposed and exciting upper-end grade 2. (The first pinnacle is a much trickier undertaking, especially the descent from its top; it receives a V-Diff climbing grade and should only be considered by roped climbing parties.) Pinnacle Ridge ends at the slender grass col, where a path down the couloir leads back to the approach.
At the first pinnacle of the Braich Ty Du Face, with the profile of Yr Esgair beyond
For adventurous scramblers the next objective is the cluster of ribs seen on the left side of the upper face – but steel yourself for a big hike. A broad, steep and grassy couloir – often wet and slippery – above and slightly left of Pinnacle Ridge avoids a blocky buttress and emerges onto an open slope of grass and heather. Alternatively, the couloir on the right of the blocky buttress is circuitous but drier and easier (its hidden east face offers various lines of roughly Diff standard) – at its top use a sheep path to move back left.
Plod up heather and scree (ignore any well-worn transverse sheep paths) towards a line of low, broken outcrops that are passed on their right. (The first outcrop gives a heathery scramble.) Take a rising leftward line to gain the left skyline ridge with an obvious cracked triangular face near its base set above a collection of spikes which, without stretching our imagination too far, we could call the Porcupine. (There is a second ridge over to the right across a couloir that has an imposing overhanging prow on it.)
Start in the middle of the porcupine spines and head up to reach the cracked triangular face where the rocks coalesce into a continuous ridge. Tackle the triangular face by moving rightwards across it to gain its right edge, which is then followed to its apex. Continue up the crest towards a substantial rise of clean rock, which appears to bar the way. This is craftily surmounted. Bear slightly left to gain height. Then, standing on a block and facing right (east) across the arête just beyond the front of its imposing wall, pull over a rib to land in a groove at the top of which is a well of boulders.
The groove is escaped by means of a shallow rectangular channel leading up to the knife-edged crest of the ridge and an airy position. Continue along the knife-edge and descend to a notch by means of its right side using a prominent shark’s tooth-shaped horn. Continue up the crest using an awkward-to-enter sentry box en route to the next impending wall. This is clearly too steep for the scrambler, so head round to its left side and west face where two options present themselves:
Climb its west face – steep but on excellent holds. Scuttle along the crest and drop down its east side to gain the tilted platform of a large block.
A wide rectangular ramp leads up to the block. The right side of this is less steep, but more awkward than it looks; its cracks can be disconcertingly greasy. Use the channel formed by its right edge to gain height and at the top of the ramp hand-traverse left on excellent flaky holds beneath the block to gain its top more easily.
The steep, heavily featured wall above the block is – somewhat surprisingly – too difficult. Unfortunately the scrambler must sidle right from the block and gain an awkward heather runnel. Head up this and rejoin the crest.
Eventually the ridge falls back into a knife-edge and finally turns to grass as it abuts the supporting mass of the mountain. The path of the South Spur walking route is close by and soon leads to the summit.
Descents and combinations
The knee-wrecking South Spur provides the quickest and most convenient return to the start. Otherwise, descend by the East Ridge (see Route 1). It is a pity to waste hard-won altitude so this route makes an excellent alternative start to a traverse of the Carneddau ridges (Route 1), although with some imagination and boundless energy the Llech Ddu Spur (Route 5) could be descended and the east ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6) ascended to give a magnificent link-up.
ROUTE 3
Broad Gully Ridge 2+
An
