Walking in the Brianconnais. Andrew McCluggage

      An old shepherd’s cabin below the Col de Dormillouse

      Arrive at the stone building of la Bergerie de Dormillouse (4hr). The views from the bergerie into the Clarée Valley are beautiful. Nearby are more recent huts. The difference between what shepherds use today and the old stone huts is stark.

      Pass to the right of the bergerie and descend the grassy slope to the SW – watch where you place your feet as there are a lot of marmot burrows here.

      Upon reaching the Ravin de la Lauze again, cross over and pick up a small path heading down the S side of the ravine. The path is faint at times but there are plenty of red and black waymarks. Eventually the path moves away from the middle of the ravine and heads into the forest.

      When the path emerges from the trees onto a grassy plateau (4hr 30min), with fabulous views of the Clarée Valley, keep descending, passing to the left of an old stone ruin. Shortly after the ruin, the path bears around to the N and enters the trees again. After a few minutes, arrive at a junction of paths – turn left and descend on a small path.

      Eventually, the path emerges from the trees and works its way along the base of some cliffs – the path here is narrow in places and there are steep drops, so be careful. Then the path zigzags S down the slope and enters the trees again. Finally, the path arrives at a track – turn right and immediately afterwards, turn left (W) to descend on a path. Where the path meets another faint track, turn right and continue downhill back to the car park (5hr 30min).

      EMILIE CARLES

      Emilie Carles, the most famous resident of the Clarée Valley, was born in 1900 into a peasant farming family. Her mother died when she was four and she managed to juggle strenuous farm work, helping to look after her family and trying to attend school to gain an education. The Clarée Valley in those days was remote and bitterly poor and opportunities for advancement for its children were few and far between. Against all odds, Emilie managed to qualify as a teacher and taught in a number of impoverished peasant farming communities throughout the Haute Alpes before returning to Val-des-Prés. She loved the Clarée Valley with all her heart and spent the rest of her life here.

      In 1977 she published her memoirs, in the French language, to popular acclaim. Une Soupe aux Herbes Sauvages was published in English in 1991 as A Wild Herb Soup – The life of a French Countrywoman.