towns and villages have popular weekly markets at which there will be stalls selling bread, cheeses, meats and other locally made products. These markets are well supported by locals and visitors alike and tourist information offices can provide information on them. Perhaps one of the most enjoyable is the Thursday morning market in Vallouise, where the stalls are set up in the old village centre.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Language: French is the first language but many locals will have at least some basic English.
Money: France uses the euro (€). ATMs can be found in most towns but rarely in smaller villages. Credit cards are accepted widely although most refuges accept cash only.
Visas: citizens of the European Union do not need a visa. At the time of writing citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US do not need a visa for stays of up to three months. Brexit may change things for the UK traveller.
Mobile phones: mobiles should work in towns and villages. In the mountains, however, it can be hit and miss. 3G services are widely available so access to the internet from smart phones is often possible.
International dialling codes: the country code for France is +33 and the first 0 in the French area code is omitted if calling from outside of France.
Internet: many hotels and gîtes now have wifi but refuges do not.
Insurance: mountain rescue services may not be free and therefore it is wise to ensure that you have adequate insurance which covers hiking. Visitors from the UK should also make sure that they have the free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) but remember that in France this will only cover part of your medical treatment so insurance is still recommended. Also, the EHIC will not cover mountain rescues. With Brexit looming it is possible that the EHIC card may soon be a thing of the past for UK residents and in such circumstances private insurance will become even more important.
Emergencies: the emergency telephone number is 112.
Via ferrata
A few of the routes in the book can be varied to link them with via ferrata routes. Via ferrata is an Italian phrase which literally means ‘iron road’. It is commonly associated with the First World War, when steel ladders were bolted into rock faces in the Italian Dolomites to assist with the movement of Italian troops. In recent years, modern via ferratas have been constructed in the French Alps. Crête de la Rortie (Walk 23) could be combined with an excellent via ferrata and L’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Walk 38) also has a via ferrata.
A via ferrata enables people with no rock climbing experience to ascend a rock face with the assistance of ladders, steps and cables (onto which the user should be clipped at all times). You should always be properly equipped with a twin lanyard and carabiner set, helmet, gloves and harness. Get instruction from an experienced professional unless you know what you are doing. Tackling a via ferrata is an exhilarating experience which can be the highlight of many people’s trip to the mountains, but it should not be treated lightly and should not be attempted by anyone who does not have a good head for heights. A fall during a via ferrata climb could lead to serious injury or even death.
Full information on how to do a via ferrata is beyond the scope of this book. They are mentioned here in passing to make the reader aware of possible alternatives on particular walks but the book does not provide detailed route descriptions for the specific via ferrata routes or information on how to do a via ferrata safely. A good reference point is Richard Miller’s excellent book Via Ferratas of the French Alps (Cicerone Press, 2014).
What to take
Having the wrong equipment or clothing can make a day out in the mountains uncomfortable, unpleasant or even dangerous. You should be adequately equipped for the terrain and for the worst weather conditions which you could possibly face. Being cold and wet at high altitude is no fun and can put you at risk.
Weight is also worth taking into account – if you take too little then you might not be properly prepared, but if you take too much then that 1000m ascent will be more difficult.
Boots should be good quality, properly fitting and worn in. Good ankle support and thick cleated soles (such as Vibram) are recommended.
Good quality walking socks are as important as boots and they should fit properly and be quick drying.
A good quality waterproof jacket is vital even if the forecast looks dry. Breathable fabrics are the norm. It is also wise to carry waterproof trousers although you may rarely need them.
Layering is important. On your upper body wear a base layer (which will wick moisture outwards from your body) with a fleece on top as a mid-layer. For added warmth you can put on your waterproof. Depending on the season, you may wish to bring additional layers. On your legs wear shorts or trousers, depending on the season. Always carry a warm hat and gloves just in case. Bear in mind that in October if you start early in the morning the temperature could be -5°C but by noon it can reach 18–19°C.
Hiking with a baby towards Col des Cibière (Walk 34)
Your rucksack should have well padded shoulder straps and waist band. Much of the weight of the pack should sit on your hips rather than your shoulders. A waterproof liner to go into your pack can be a good investment.
Poles will transfer some of the weight from your legs onto your arms keeping your legs a little fresher. On descents they can save your knees and can reduce the likelihood of falling or twisting an ankle.
Carry a basic first aid kit at all times. A small torch with spare batteries and a whistle are sensible additions – many rucksacks have whistles incorporated into the sternum strap. A space blanket or emergency bag is very light and could save someone’s life.
Always carry a map and compass and know how to use them. A GPS can be a useful addition but it is no substitute for a map and compass – after all, batteries can run out and electronics can fail.
The sun at altitude can be brutal so wear sunscreen and lip salve. Sunglasses and a sun hat are also recommended
Carry at least 1.5 litres of water per person
Maps
IGN is the French public geographical service, producing a range of maps covering French territory in various scales and formats. Each walk description in this book contains information on the appropriate 1:25,000 scale map(s).
Using this guide
The walks in this book are only a taste of the hundreds of possibilities available in this amazing region. Six geographical areas are covered and you could easily spend a week or more in each area. Routes could be shortened or lengthened to meet your needs. A route summary table is provided in Appendix A as a useful aid for choosing a walk.
Walk grading: walks have been graded easy, medium, hard or very hard. Walk grading is subjective: one person’s hill is another person’s mountain. The grades in this book take account of distance, ascent, gradient, terrain and navigational challenge. If there is difficult terrain or significant exposure on a walk then this can impact its categorisation. In general, a walk graded easy could be undertaken by most people. A walk graded very hard is only suitable for fit and experienced walkers.
Timings: these indicate the time for a reasonably fit walker to complete the walk. They do not include any resting time.
Distances:
