Alpine climates tend to be drier and more predictable than those in mountain areas with a maritime climate (such as the UK or the US west coast). Nevertheless, as with any high mountain region, conditions can still change rapidly. It is prudent therefore to be prepared for rain and it is not beyond the realms of possibility to experience snow on high mountain passes (‘cols’) and summits even in the middle of summer. All mountains can be dangerous places and need to be treated with respect and caution, even if the weather forecast is favourable.
The Vallouise Valley in winter
The weather in the Briançonnais can be extremely localised, often differing from valley to valley. It is possible therefore to climb to the top of a col in blazing sunshine only to find cloud or even rain over the other side. The Durance Valley has a slightly different climate, for example, than the Guisane.
Forecasts in France are relatively easy to access. National and regional forecasts can be found on television or radio. Local forecasts can be found at tourist information offices and most mountain huts will display up-to-date weather forecasts. Indeed, often the most reliable forecast can be that provided by a hut gardien (manager), as it will be infused with a wealth of local knowledge.
In addition, there are numerous internet sites, both French and international, which produce forecasts of varying reliability. One of the best sites is Meteo France, the French meteorological office, which provides regularly updated national, regional and local forecasts at www.meteofrance.com. Meteo France also has an excellent smart phone app which provides detailed local forecasts.
When to go
In general the Briançonnais can be walked from May to October but, as with any part of the Alps, walking at altitude is restricted for part of the year by snow. Normally high cols will be snow covered until mid to late June, with the main walking season running from the end of June to the end of September. This does not mean that you cannot walk at other times and, indeed, it can be preferable to do so.
Spring (May and June): there is still plenty of excellent walking below the snowline to please the most hardened walker. Take care when approaching the snowline in spring, as avalanches are not uncommon and can kill. Away from the snowline you should have few concerns, and this can be the most beautiful time of year for walking: new growth will be on the trees, the weather is often sunny and warm and the peaks are frequently at their most photogenic, still frosted with snow. Visibility is generally excellent in the absence of summer haze. Of course there is still rain at this time of year, but this usually lessens as spring develops.
Furthermore, in May and early June the Briançonnais’ hundreds of varieties of wild flowers are at their glorious best, the pastures resplendent with colour. This is a sight which most walkers, focused on the summer season, never get to see, and it cannot be recommended highly enough. Additionally, the Briançonnais is extremely quiet during this period, so if you are seeking solitude then this is a great time to visit.
Wild flowers in spring in the Fournel Valley
Summer (July and August): normally most of the high cols are passable on foot. This is the peak season, reaching its crescendo in the four weeks commencing around 14th July, when most of the French take their annual vacations. During these four weeks visitor numbers are at the summer maximum, yet when compared to the more popular Northern Alps it does not really seem busy at all.
Temperatures will be at their peak, reaching more than 30°C. Mornings are often clear and sunny, heating up as the sun rises into deep blue skies. If there is to be cloud, this will likely form throughout the afternoon, and may bring thunderstorms. Sensible advice is to start early in the morning and get your main climb done while the temperature is cooler. Summer can be hazier than spring or autumn.
Autumn (September and October): visitor numbers thin out rapidly from the last week in August. French and Italian holiday-makers are back at work and the mountains are almost deserted (particularly mid-week). From the middle of September the mountain huts and gîtes start to close up for the season.
Often September offers the best walking, with settled weather and more comfortable temperatures than in summer. The skies are clear and visibility is normally excellent, particularly if your visit coincides with the Mistral, a strong, cold northwest wind. Evenings will be cooler.
Walkers generally ignore October, which is a shame as the weather can be beautiful, and the proliferation of larch trees and other deciduous plants means that the autumn colours are an astounding mix of yellows, reds and browns. Days will be shorter so start walking early in October – if something were to go wrong you would have much less daylight to seek help than in the summer, which should also be borne in mind when deciding what to bring with you.
The Guisane Valley in autumn
Where to base yourself
The main town in the Briançonnais is Briançon, which is also the most central place to stay. Details of tourist information can be found in Appendix C. Briançon is well served by accommodation and restaurants and the historical old town is fascinating, but after a night or two most walkers will prefer to locate themselves somewhere more rural. The fantastic towns, villages and hamlets in the region are too numerous to list exhaustively but the following all make good bases.
Vallouise (www.tourisme-lavallouise.com tel +33 (0)4 92 23 36 12) is set in the stunning Vallouise Valley about 20min from Briançon and is perhaps the nicest place to stay. In the centre, there is a lovely 15th century church, a supermarket, a hotel and a couple of shops and restaurants. There are also hotels, gîtes and campsites nearby. In the peak summer season bookings should be made in advance. There is great mountain biking and via ferrata here too, and equipment can be rented in the valley.
The magnificent setting of the village of Vallouise
Névache (www.nevache-tourisme.fr tel +33 (0)4 92 20 02 20). Located towards the top of the Clarée Valley, 20min drive from Briançon, its bucolic setting makes for a relaxing place to stay. There are some hotels, gites and restaurants and a beautiful campsite beside the river.
Montgenèvre (www.montgenevre.com tel +33 (0)4 92 21 52 52), a popular ski resort about 15min from Briançon, has many hotels and restaurants.
Le Monetier-les-Bains (www.serrechevalier.com/www.serre-chevalier.com tel +33 (0)4 92 24 98 98) is an attractive little town between Briançon and la Grave. It is home to a fantastic natural spring complex and plenty of restaurants and places to stay.
La Grave (www.lagrave-lameije.com tel +33 (0)4 76 79 90 05) is a pretty town set in front of the famous mountain la Meije (3983m). The many hotels, restaurants and bars are perfectly situated for those who wish to soak up the view of this permanently snowy peak. For something different to do, there is a cable car from the town up to the Glacier de la Girose.
Accommodation
