Accommodation of all types is plentiful throughout the Briançonnais. During the French summer holidays it’s advisable to book ahead. Outside of these times you should have no problems finding a pleasant place to stay, but be aware that in early spring and from mid-September onwards some accommodation will be closed.
Hotels
The range of available hotel accommodation is wide but quality can vary. The majority of hotels will be in the one to three star categories. There are a few four star hotels, but the five star is a very rare species indeed. Most hotels will offer breakfast and evening meals and the half board rates can be very good. These days many hotels are part of the Logis chain and details of their hotels can be found at www.logishotels.com. In this digital age, independent hotels in the region normally have their own websites too.
Self-catering chalets and apartments
For those wishing to stay in the same place for a week or more, self catering accommodation can be excellent value, particularly for families or groups. It is not too difficult to find a high quality chalet or apartment with a garden or terrace and a very fine view. Most immobiliers (estate agents) rent self-catering accommodation. However, English speakers may find it easier to avail of the good rates that can be found with Alp Base (see Appendix C).
Gîtes d’étape
A gîte is a difficult thing to define. Traditionally it would have been akin to a youth hostel, offering beds in dormitories and evening meals. Nowadays, however, as travellers are more demanding, gîtes are more upmarket – private rooms are normally available and blankets have largely been replaced by duvets. The accommodation in some gîtes is in fact better than many hotels but it pays to check before you book. Many gîtes now have their own websites.
Chambres d’hôte
Generally these approximate to bed and breakfast accommodation in the UK. Quality can vary widely – some can be better than hotels but others are little more luxurious than a mountain hut.
Refuges
These are mountain huts which offer dormitory accommodation and meals. Many also have private rooms. Duvets and sheets are becoming the norm and hopefully the itchy blanket is a thing of the past. To stay in a refuge, you will need to bring a sleeping sheet, a thin bag made of silk or cotton. These can be purchased cheaply at most outdoor shops in the UK or France or, sometimes, they can be rented for a small charge.
Refuges are often located deep within the mountains and accessible only to the walker. This is mountain travel at its finest, with no need to carry heavy gear or food. Wine and beer is usually available and if you are lucky the gardien may let you try his secret stash of homemade Génépy, a potent liqueur made from a plant only found in the high mountains. Most importantly refuges are good value – a bed for the night, dinner and breakfast should cost less than €50.
Campsites
Most towns and villages will have campsites and the services which they offer vary greatly. They will all have toilet and shower facilities but some have swimming pools and restaurants too. Wild camping or bivouacking may be tolerated provided that you only stay for a night. If you do camp out ensure that you carry out all rubbish and bury any toilet waste well away from watercourses.
Briançon viewed from the well preserved city walls (Walk 30)
Safety
On a sunny day the Alps can appear to be a benign paradise, but it only takes a change in the weather or a twisted ankle to turn a pleasant day out into something potentially life threatening. This should not put you off, but it is wise to treat the mountains with the respect they deserve and to be aware of your own experience levels and physical capabilities. The following is a non-exhaustive list of recommendations.
Read walk descriptions carefully and make plans based on the abilities of the weakest member of your party.
Get an up-to-date weather forecast (see ‘Weather’ above) and carefully reconsider your plans in light of the forecast. Never set out on long or exposed routes if the weather is uncertain.
Get as fit as possible before you begin your vacation; the fitter you are the more you will enjoy walking.
Start early to avoid having to ascend during the hottest part of the day and to give you more time in case something goes wrong.
Buy a map. The maps in this book are indicative only and are no substitute for a sheet map.
Before setting out, tell someone where you are going and what time you will return.
Carry surplus food and clothing in case you have an accident or get held up by the weather.
Never be afraid to turn back if you find the going too tough or if the weather deteriorates. It is better to fail on one occasion in order to succeed a hundred times in the future.
Do not stray from the path (unless the route does not have one) to avoid getting lost. This will also avoid erosion of the landscape.
Avoid exposed high ground in a thunderstorm. If you get caught out in one then drop your walking poles and stay away from trees, overhanging rocks, metal structures and caves. The generally accepted advice is to squat on your pack and keep as low as possible.
In the event of an accident, move the injured person into a safe place and administer any necessary first aid. Keep the victim warm. Establish your exact coordinates and, if possible, use your mobile to call for help. The emergency number is 112. If you have no signal then send someone for help.
Mountain biking is becoming more and more popular so keep your wits about you to avoid a collision.
Hunting is popular in the Briançonnais. The season starts at the beginning of September and lasts throughout the autumn and early winter. It is sensible to wear something brightly coloured when walking in the hunting season.
The pretty chapel in Névache
Food and drink
French food is generally excellent. Most hotels, gîtes and refuges will offer breakfast and evening meals. Breakfast will normally be coffee, bread and jam, perhaps with some cheeses or cold meats. Evening meals are usually substantial three course affairs as walkers tend to be hungry people. Soup and pâté are common starters and the main course will normally be some sort of meat with vegetables, rice, pasta or salad. This will often be followed by dessert or cheese.
Many of the restaurants will serve local specialities such as Tourtons, otherwise improbably known as Coussins du petit Jésus (Cushions of baby Jesus). These are tasty little pastry squares stuffed with fillings such as potato, cheese or meat. Fondues and tartiflette (a rich and tasty concoction of potatoes, cream, ham and Reblochon cheese) are also popular mountain fares.
Bread is nothing short of a way of life in France and is consistently excellent – most towns and villages will have a boulangerie (bakery). Supermarkets in France stock a wide range of fantastic cheeses and cold meats so picnic food is readily
