Võid soola sees küpsetada ka tervet forelli, lõhet või tuura. Tulemus saab ikka enneolematult hea ja eriline.
Soolas küpsetatud valge kala
White fish cooked in salt
White fish cooked in salt, with gremolata sauce
I was served fish cooked in salt, for the first time, in Greece, on the island of Poros. After that experience, I noticed that many of the world’s restaurants cook fish in this way. However, if I had not seen and tried it myself, it would have probably taken quite some time before I would have ventured to eat it – a fish buried in several kilos of salt, doesn’t it become bitterly salty? Actually, the fish absorbs just as much salt as is needed, the chef at a Kadriorg restaurant once explained to me, when I asked. And, in a few minutes, he graciously revealed the secret for preparing a dish that seemed to be a genuine masterpiece. The salt creates a peculiar cave environment, which gives any fish a slightly smoky taste and a beautiful golden colour while baking. Here it is – a Greek-Kadriorg fish delicacy.
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1 WHOLE WHITE FISH (PIKE PERCH, GILT-HEAD BREAM, PIKE, 700 G TO 1 KG)
2 KG COARSE SEA SALT
2 TBSP WHITE WINE
1 EGG WHITE
HANDFUL OF HERBS (ROSEMARY, CORIANDER, THYME, ETC.)
A FEW LEMON SLICES
FOR THE GREMOLATA SAUCE, MIX THE FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS:
3 TBSP FINELY CHOPPED SMOOTH PARSLEY (OR CORIANDER)
1 LARGE CLOVE OF GARLIC, PRESSED
1 TSP LEMON ZEST
GROUND SEA SALT, FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
4 TBSP COLD-PRESSED OLIVE OIL
1 TSP FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE
Gut the fish and wipe clean with paper towelling (but, don’t remove the scales, or the head and tail!). Stuff the lemon slices and handful of herbs into the stomach of the fish. In a bowl, mix the coarse sea salt, white wine and egg white by hand, which will give you a moist and fragrant mixture.
Puta half-centimetre thick layer of this moist sea salt mixture on the bottom of a roasting pan. Place the fish in the sea salt mixture, and cover completely with a thick coating of the same mixture. Pat this down evenly, so that even the end of the fish’s nose is covered. Bake in a preheated oven at 230 ºC, for 10 minutes, in which time, a strong salt crust will develop; thereafter, bake for another 20 to 40 minutes (depending on the size of the fish), at 175 ºC. To serve, cut the salt crust with a heavy knife (or crush it with a potato masher). Remove the fillets of the fish, and serve with grilled vegetables or a fresh salad. Put a spoonful of gremolata on the fish fillet. As you enjoy this dish, you will detect the scent of the Mediterranean in your nostrils…
⇒ You can also bake an entire trout, salmon or sturgeon in salt. The result will, again, be uniquely special and delicious.
Kaheksajalg valges veinis
See oli kümmekond aastat tagasi, kui varahommikul väiksel Symi saarel oma jooksutiiru tehes sattusin iseäralikule vaatepildile: kaluripere hommikust saaki puhastamas. Nood pesunööril rippuvad hiigelsuured kaheksajalad ei kao mu mälust iialgi. Mõjudes ühtaegu nii maaliliselt kui ka eemaletõukavalt, maitsevad nad sellest hetkest saadik kuidagi teisiti. Uurisin tookord ka ühelt kohalikult kokalt nendest maitsvate roogade keetmise saladusi ning ega neid palju olnudki. Kaheksajalg peab olema korralikult puhastatud, et tema mõru must neste toidu sisse ei satuks. Ning ta vajab hea tekstuuri saavutamiseks õrna hapet: valget või punast veini ning sidrunit.
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500 G KÜLMUTATUD VÕI VÄRSKEID BEEBIKAHEKSAJALGU
350 ML VALGET VEINI
5–6 VÄRSKET KÜÜSLAUGUKÜÜNT
300 G KOORITUD KONSERVTOMATEID VÕI 3–4 VÄRSKET KÜPSET TOMATIT
2 SPL KÜLMPRESSITUD OLIIVIÕLI
2–3 VIILU SIDRUNIT
MERESOOLA
NÄPUTÄIS HELEDAT SUHKRUT (SÕLTUVALT VEINI MAGUSUSEST)
VÄRSKET MUSTA PIPART
2 TL KUIVATATUD PUNET
VÄRSKET KORIANDRIT (SOOVI KORRAL)
Pane kaheksajalad veini sisse tasasele tulele podisema. Kaant ära peale pane! Koori küüslauguküüned ja vajuta lõikelaual noa seljaga laiaks, nii muutuvad nad mahlakamaks. Seejärel haki nad jämedalt ning lisa potti kaheksajalgade juurde. Lase haududa 30 minutit, seejärel tükelda tomatid (kui teed blenderis, ära päris püreeks lase – tükid sobivad sellesse rooga) ja lisa potti koos punega. Maitsesta soola ning pipraga ja lase veel 5–7 minutit haududa. Lõpuks lisa sidruniviilud, puista üle värske hakitud koriandriga ning serveeri kerge lõuna- või õhtueinena. Kõrvale sobivad grillitud köögiviljad või lihtsalt viil (oliivi)saia.
Octopus in white wine
It was about ten years ago, when taking my early morning run around the small island of Symi that I happened upon an unusual sight – a fisherman’s family cleaning the morning catch. I will never forget those giant octopuses hanging on a laundry line. Simultaneously, causing a picturesque and repellent feeling, they have never tasted the same from that moment on. At the time, I asked a local chef for the secret to preparing delicious dishes from them, but there weren’t many. An octopus must be properly cleaned, so that its bitter black ink does not get into the dish. And, it requires delicate acids to achieve a good texture – white or red wine and lemon.
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500 G OF FROZEN OR FRESH BABY OCTOPUS
350 ML WHITE WINE
5–6 FRESH CLOVES OF GARLIC
