to house its lending library, the fourth-oldest in the United States. Edgar Allan Poe courted Sarah Whitman, his “Annabel Lee,” among the stacks here. Glances through the old card catalog reveal handwritten cards dating well back into the 1800s; bibliophiles will lose themselves in this evocative place. Rotating exhibits of rare books and works by local artists are additional attractions.
251 Benefit St. (at College St.). www.providenceathenaeum.org. 401/421-6970. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 9am–7pm; Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 1–5pm. Also Sun 1–5pm Sept–May. Closed 1st 2 weeks Aug.
Rhode Island State House ARCHITECTURE Constructed of white Georgian marble that blazes in the sun, Rhode Island’s capitol building dominates the city center. This near-flawless example of neoclassical governmental architecture (by McKim, Mead & White; 1885–1904) is crowned by one of the world’s largest self-supported domes. The gilded figure on top represents “Independent Man,” the state symbol. Inside the State Room is a portrait of George Washington, one of several painted by Gilbert Stuart (1755–1828), a Rhode Island native.
82 Smith St. (at State St.). sos.ri.gov/divisions/Civics-And-Education/State-House-Tour. 401/277-2357. Free admission. Guided tours by appointment.
Roger Williams Park Zoo ZOO One of the country’s oldest zoos (founded in 1872), its mission is to engage visitors’ interest in animals and to promote their conservation in the wild. The 40-acre zoo is divided into six habitats: Tropical America, North America, the Plains of Africa, Madagascar, Australia, and the Marco Polo Trail. Featured animals include giraffes, elephants, harbor seals, and snow leopards. Halloween brings special programs including a huge display of jack-o-lanterns and “spooky zoo” parties.
1000 Elmwood Ave. (exit 16 or 17 from I-95). www.rwpzoo.org. 401/785-3510. $18 adults, $16 seniors, $13 ages 2–12, free for children 1 and under; 50% discount for retired and active military. Admission half-price Jan–Feb. Free parking. Daily 9am–4pm.
Stroll Federal Hill
Federal Hill, on the west side of the city, has long been a tourist destination. It’s a traditionally Italian neighborhood—the television show Brotherhood was filmed in the area, as was the 1994 movie Federal Hill—complete with traditional Italian eateries, but since about 1990 it has seen a rise in non-Italian restaurants and new boutiques and galleries (see “Shopping,” p. 432). Atwells Avenue is the neighborhood’s main artery.
WaterFire Providence OUTDOOR EVENT The signature event of the Providence summer and early fall are the WaterFire nights. Along the three rivers that run through the city, an installation of 100 floating bonfires creates a haunting glow, with world music adding to the scene. Thousands of people descend to the shores to witness the event, held a dozen times from late spring to early fall. It takes place along Memorial Boulevard and the Providence and Woonasquatucket Rivers, running for just over a half-mile from Providence Place to the Crawford Street Bridge.
Basin of Waterplace Park and along the river, downtown Providence. www.waterfire.org. 401/273-1155. Free admission, donations accepted at site. Late May–Oct, from 20 min. after sunset until midnight. Check website for schedule.
Shopping
On the East Side of the city, Thayer Street, the main commercial district for Brown University, is good for browsing. The official Brown Bookstore is here, at no. 244 (corner of Olive St.). Wickenden Street, which crosses Thayer at its southern end, also has interesting shops and art galleries.
Downtown, Providence Place, a 170-store mall at One Providence Place (www.providenceplace.com; 401/270-1000), is home to Nordstrom, Tiffany & Co., Coach, Apple Store, J. Jill, and Build-A-Bear Workshop, among others. There’s also a National Amusements IMAX movie theater. The mall’s parking garage rates are reasonable for a midsize city (2 hours free, 2–5 hours $2, 5–8 hours $15 and up).
The Arcade , 66 Weybosset St. ( 401/454-4568) is the granddaddy of all U.S. shopping malls, having opened in 1828. While its upper floors have now been made into “small lofts”, the first floor continues the shopping history with nine shops. Carmen and Ginger specializes in items including jewelry, clothing, and bric-a-brac—you might say light antiques. Chamonix Antiques sells furniture and art (both old and contemporary). The Arcade also has Lovecraft Arts and Sciences, a book and gift store devoted to Providence native son H. P. Lovecraft, the early 20th-century master of horror and spooky fiction; it also serves as headquarters for occasional literary events and the biannual Necronomicon convention.
Foodies will want to stroll Federal Hill, Providence’s “Little Italy,” west of I-95 (see box p. 431). Head to Atwells Avenue, the main drag. Keep an eye out for Costantino’s Venda Ravioli , 275 Atwells Ave. (www.vendaravioli.com; 401/421-9105), a pasta store that has expanded into a small empire of prepared foods, packaged Italian specialties, and large cheese and meat sections. There’s an espresso bar, as well as cafe tables for noshing either inside or on a terrace.
Where to Stay in Providence
The Renaissance Providence, listed below, is across the street from the State House. Three others recommended are downtown—“Downcity,” as it’s called here—and one is just south of the city near TF Green Airport. Tip: Hotel demand goes through the roof for Brown University commencement weekend; even if you are lucky enough to snag a free room, expect rates to soar well above usual.
The Dean Hotel As cheeky and hip as the city itself, The Dean is a newcomer to Downcity but rooted firmly in its idiosyncratic traditions. Take the karaoke lounge for example, or the stylish furniture that combines the work of local craftspeople with “previously owned” finds. There’s a sociable vibe going on here, in the welcoming public areas and in the no-phone-no-reservations-no-menu restaurant, North , where ingredients are sourced from local growers and producers. Stylish rooms are decorated with original art and works of RISD photographers, and range from cozy double-bunk dens to Guardian Suites with king-size beds and seating for six.
to house its lending library, the fourth-oldest in the United States. Edgar Allan Poe courted Sarah Whitman, his “Annabel Lee,” among the stacks here. Glances through the old card catalog reveal handwritten cards dating well back into the 1800s; bibliophiles will lose themselves in this evocative place. Rotating exhibits of rare books and works by local artists are additional attractions.
