Frommer’s EasyGuide to Rhode Island. Barbara Rogers

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cocktail lounge hidden behind a store on Olneyville Square.

      16 miles SE of Providence; 15 miles N of Newport

      About halfway between Providence and Newport, Bristol is perhaps the best-kept secret in Rhode Island. First settled in 1680, this beautiful waterfront town sits on a peninsula straddling the Narragansett and Mount Hope Bays. It makes for a soothing excursion from the urbanity of Providence and the concentration of sights and activity that is Newport.

      Bristol is best known as home to the nation’s oldest 4th of July parade, which has run annually here since 1785. The parade, which now draws up to 200,000 spectators, is the highlight of the year for what some residents call “America’s Most Patriotic Town.” The main boulevard, Hope Street, replaces the double yellow line in favor of a red, white, and blue band marking the 1.8-mile parade route.

      Bristol’s past also includes the notoriety of being the former home to the DeWolfs, the largest slave trading family in U.S. history. During much of the 1700s and the first decade of the 1800s, Rhode Island was the business epicenter of the “Triangle Trade,” the trade of rum from New England, molasses from the West Indies, and enslaved peoples from Africa.

      Today, though, Bristol is known for its historic homes and quaint downtown. In the past 15 years, it has undergone a gentrification from industrial town to tourist haven, with shops, a few fine dining spots, and cafes comprising a landscape of what used to be abandoned mills and fading industry.

      Note that in the off season, November through April, most museums and small inns close.

      Essentials

      Arriving

      From Providence, it’s fastest to take I-195 to Route 136, but the more scenic route is to take I-195 to exit 7 and follow Route 114S toward Barrington. Follow Route 114 all the way into Bristol; on the way, you’ll pass marinas and historic buildings and traverse scenic bridges.

      Visitor Information

      Tourism information (www.explorebristolri.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 401/253-7000) is available in the Town Hall at 10 Court St. (Mon–Fri 8:30am–4pm), and in the Burnside Building at 400 Hope St. (Sat–Sun 10am–5pm).

      Exploring Bristol

      The city’s quiet charm is in its well-preserved historic district, which runs along Hope Street and down side roads to Thames Street (pronounced “TH-aymz”), which borders the Bristol Harbor. Start here and stroll past homes dating back to the 1700s and 1800s. Former industrial sites at the harbor have been gentrified into high-end condos in converted mill buildings. There is 1- and 2-hour parking available along most streets, and a municipal parking lot on Thames.

      Bristol was named one of the Distinctive Destinations in the U.S. by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which called it a “quintessential New England waterfront town” with an “unwavering commitment” to preservation. Also cited by the Trust are town attractions Blithewold Mansion, Coggeswell Farm Museum, Herreshoff Marine Museum and America’s Cup Hall of Fame, and Colt State Park, all listed below.

      Blithewold Mansion, Gardens, and Arboretum Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg HISTORIC HOME This 45-room waterfront estate was built in 1907 as a summer home to Augustus Van Wickle. Featuring beautiful gardens and landscaping, it’s now a museum that feels like a rural English manor. Open for tours, the estate is preserved much as it was in the early 1900s. The gardens bordering the water are a particular treat, and in mid- to late April, thousands of blooming daffodils provide a magnificent scene.

      101 Ferry Rd. (Rte. 114). www.blithewold.org. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 401/253-2707. $15 adults, $14 seniors, $11 military and full-time students, $6 children 6–17, children 5 and under free. House open mid-Apr to mid-Oct only, Tues–Sun 10am–4pm. Gardens open daily 10am–4pm year-round.

      Coggeshall Farm Museum Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg LIVING HISTORY MUSEUM Set on 50 acres abutting Colt State Park (see p. 441), this museum is worth a visit even if just to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere of centuries-old farmland. In its 1790s farmhouse and several small antique farm buildings, costumed staff answer questions and demonstrate farm life of the 18th century.

      Off Poppasquash Rd. (turn off Rte./Hope St. and follow signs). www.coggeshallfarm.org. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 401/253-9062. Weekdays $5 adults, $3 seniors and children; weekends $7 adults, $5 seniors and children. Tues–Sun 10am–4pm; closed some holidays.

      Herreshoff Marine Museum and America’s Cup Hall of Fame Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg MUSEUM This maritime museum highlights the history of the Herreshoff Manufacturing Company, a boat builder of everything from U.S. Navy torpedo boats to championship America’s Cup yachts; it was once the centerpiece of industry in Bristol. The facility houses the America’s Cup Hall of Fame and features a collection of 35 boats, including the famous “America3,” winner of the 1992 America’s Cup race.

      1 Burnside St. (off Hope St./Rte. 114). www.herreshoff.org. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 401/253-5000. Admission $3. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm.

      Outdoor Activities

      Once the estate of Samuel Colt, of the same family as the famous firearms manufacturer, Colt State Park (www.riparks.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 401/253-7482) encompasses 464 acres of land bordering Narragansett Bay. Open year-round sunrise to sunset, it offers stunning views over the water, especially at sunset. There are trails for biking, walking, jogging, or cycling, and bridle paths for horseback riding. In warmer months, families come for the day to barbecue, play volleyball, and otherwise enjoy the bucolic atmosphere. You’ll also find anglers casting lines and kayakers paddling on the bay. Entry and parking are free, but there is a $2 charge for picnic tables and grills.

      The East Bay Bike Path (www.dot.ri.gov/community/bikeri/eastbay.php) is a 14.5-mile paved trail running between Bristol and Providence, built atop a converted train track. After passing through Colt State Park, it spends much of the trip skimming Narragansett Bay. The trail is used by runners, skaters, and walkers as well as bikers. Access to the path is free.

      Shopping in Bristol

      The most interesting shopping in Bristol is in the historic downtown area. The highest concentration of shops is along Hope Street (Route 114), with more on Thames Street and the short side streets between them. Jesse/James Antiques, 44 State St. (www.jessejamesantiques.wordpress.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 401/253-2240), open since 1992, has notable pieces of china, glassware, and period furniture. Harbor Bath & Body, 251 Thames St. (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 401/396-9170), offers a variety of natural and organic bath products, many of which are made

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