Hotel Providence A dazzling contribution to the emerging downtown arts and entertainment district, this boutique hotel, combining two buildings, gained instant membership in the selective Small Luxury Hotels of the World marketing group. The owners filled the public areas with fine 18th- and 19th-century European antiques and artworks, and commissioned custom reproductions for the bedrooms to carry the image through. Pillow-top beds are cozy and enveloping. Guests are serenaded at 15-minute intervals by the pealing of the 16 tower bells of Grace Church, across the street, so light sleepers will want a room away from that side of the hotel.
139 Mathewson St. www.hotelprovidence.com. 855/861-8990 or 401/861-8000. 80 units. $199–$239 double. Valet parking $25. Small pets accepted ($75 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; small exercise room; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
NYLO Providence/Warwick Outside the center on the airport (south) side of the city, the NYLO’s minimalist loft rooms overlook the Pawtuxet River or have views of Downcity. Rooms are 300 square feet, suites double that, all with king-size beds and industrial-chic decor of brick walls and cement floors. The Skyline Suite adds a 300-square-foot private terrace. Some rooms have heating/air conditioning units behind the bed, which can be noisy at night. An outdoor patio lounge overlooks the river, and the in-house restaurant serves Italian/New England dishes. Shoppers like the NYLO’s location opposite the Warwick Mall, a complex of 80 stores, restaurants and a movie theater. Special airport packages include free parking and shuttle to TF Green Airport.
400 Knight St. (off Greenwich Ave.), Warwick. www.nylohotels.com/warwick. 401/734-4460. 163 rooms. $107–289 double. Free parking. Pets accepted ($50 per pet for up to 3 nights). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; allergy-free rooms available; Wi-Fi (free).
Providence Biltmore A grand staircase beneath the stunning Deco bronze ceiling dates the centrally located building to the 1920s, and a plaque in the lobby shows the nearly 7-foot-high water level reached during the villainous 1938 hurricane. From the lobby, the dramatic glass elevator shoots skyward, exiting outdoors to scoot up the side of the building. Most guest rooms are large (over half are suites averaging 600 sq. ft.), and California king beds are standard in all rooms. The in-house restaurant, McCormick & Schmick’s, specializes in seafood and steaks, with an Oyster Night every Thursday.
11 Dorrance St. www.providencebiltmore.com. 800/294-7709 or 401/421-0700. 292 units. $169–$234 double. Valet parking $24. Pets accepted ($35/night). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Renaissance Providence Here’s a story: In the late 1920s, the Masons were building a neoclassical temple a couple of blocks west of the State House. When they ran out of money, construction suddenly ended, leaving the building an empty shell. There it stood for 78 years, unoccupied, a magnet for graffiti vandals and thieves. A $100-million renovation by the Marriott company transformed it into this ambitious luxury hotel, which opened in 2007. Immediately, the Renaissance Providence rivaled the best the city has to offer. A grand lobby with a fireplace welcomes guests, and Temple, the flashy in-house restaurant-bar, was an instant hit with locals as well as out-of-towners. Two executive-level floors have a private club/lounge with honor bar. The hotel is a 5-minute walk from the Amtrak station and across from the State House.
5 Ave. of the Arts (formerly Brownell St.). www.renaissancehotels.com. 866/238-4218 or 800-468-3571. 272 units. $209–$299 double. Valet parking $30. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; executive-level rooms; fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi ($13/day).
Where to Eat in Providence
Providence has a sturdy Italian heritage, hence its profusion of tomato-sauce and pizza joints, especially on Federal Hill. That identity is changing, but a stroll along the Hill’s main drag, Atwells Avenue, can set off furious hunger alarms. Another fruitful strip to explore for lower-cost and ethnic dining options is that part of Thayer Street bordering the Brown University campus.
An interesting phenomenon in Providence, and indeed throughout the state, is its customer loyalty: Outstanding restaurants stay popular as long as they stay good.
Al Forno CREATIVE ITALIAN In the 1980s if you’d asked almost anyone in Providence the best place to eat, they’d most likely have said “Al Forno” without a second thought. When chef-owners Johanne Killeen & George Germon opened this Italian-influenced restaurant in 1980, farm-to-table was a new idea that didn’t even have a name yet, wood-fired ovens were rare, and Providence was just beginning to make a name as a dining mecca. That nearly four decades later Al Forno is still one of the city’s top dining spots is testament to its continuing excellence. Ingredients from New England farms and waters are transformed over hardwood charcoal and in blistering hot ovens, creating memorable dishes such as roasted stuffed rabbit, duck confit and roasted duck with grapes, or an entrée of wood-grilled and roasted vegetables. The signature dessert, Grand Cookie Finale, is so abundant that it comes with a bag for the leftovers.
577 South Water St. www.alforno.com. 401/273-9760. Reservations recommended. Main courses $24–$34. Tues–Fri 5–10pm; Sat 4–11pm. RIPTA bus 60.
Bacaro ITALIAN A standout for what might be called Italian tapas—small dishes that allow for an evening of grazing and tasting—Bacaro’s menu seems made for sharing with friends. Diners choose from 30 such cicchetti options here, from fried smelts with lemony aioli to wild boar sausage on crispy polenta crostini served with blueberry chutney. You can also order from an expansive salumeria menu of cured meats and robust cheeses—ask for advice and start there. Bacaro’s location on South Water Street offers views of the Providence River and is a logical destination after touring the historic east side of the city.
262 S. Water St. (near Williams St.). www.bacarorestaurant.net. 401/751-3700. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$35; cicchetti $5–$12. Tues–Sat 5–10pm (Sat from 4pm). RIPTA bus 35 or 78.
Cafe Nuovo INTERNATIONAL This spacious room of glass, marble, and burnished wood, on the ground floor of a downtown office tower, overlooks
52 units. $109–$209 double. Valet parking $28. Amenities: Restaurant; coffee bar; cocktail lounge; karaoke lounge; rain showers; complimentary bikes; Wi-Fi (free).
