WaterFire events, p. 431.) Unlike some of its competitors, Cafe Nuovo takes reservations, is open for lunch and dinner, and impresses with every course, from dazzling appetizers to stunning pastries. The fare skips lightly among inspirations—Greek, Portuguese, and Japanese among them.
1 Citizens Plaza (access from Steeple St. bridge). www.cafenuovo.com. 401/421-2525. Reservations recommended. Main courses $31–$50. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. RIPTA bus 1 or 23 (5-min. walk from Kennedy Plaza).
CAV INTERNATIONAL No corporate design drudge had a hand in this warehouse interior, a Jewelry District pioneer. CAV is an acronym for “Cocktails/Antiques/Victuals,” and patrons are surrounded by tribal rugs, African carvings, and assorted antiques (most for sale). Turkish kilims under glass cover the tables. The resulting bohemian air is not unlike Greenwich Village in the 1960s. Select from such strenuous menu swings as pistachio-crusted crab cake with Sriracha aioli and taro root chips to such modern comfort foods as braised lamb with poppy seed port wine demi-glace, butternut squash custard, and Israeli couscous. Consult a map or the directions at the restaurant’s website before heading out.
14 Imperial Place (at Basset St.). www.cavrestaurant.com. 401/751-9164. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$32. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri 11:30am–1am; Sat 10am–10pm; Sun 10:30am–10pm. RIPTA bus 3, 22, or 92.
Chez Pascal FRENCH Located about 2 miles north on Hope Street from the Brown University campus, this warm little bistro is worth the trip. The kitchen works in the French tradition but isn’t dogmatic about it. The variety of house-made pâtés and charcuterie is unusually large, from a root vegetable terrine to the pork and fennel sausage. Pascal always offers a “local pork of the day” dish, but it also caters to non-meat-eaters with a vegetarian tasting menu that often features lentil ragout with roasted sugar pumpkin. Winning desserts have included pear upside-down cake with Great Hill blue cheese and walnuts, caramel sauce, and crème fraiche. Reserve well ahead.
960 Hope St. (at 9th St.). www.chez-pascal.com. 401/421-4422. Main courses $25–$31. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm. RIPTA bus line 1.
Garden Grille VEGETARIAN Animal-free meals are not so easy to find as you might expect in this college town, but a long-time favorite is this small restaurant a few steps across the town line into Pawtucket. Go for the food, not the atmosphere, which is non-existent and somewhat cramped. But the menu has something for almost every food preference: gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, Kosher—and when possible, the vegetables come from local farms. Along with the expected quesadillas, stir-fry bowls, and veggie burgers, you’ll see seitan mushroom burgers, tofu BLTs with avocado or egg, pastrami seitan Reubens, and vegan mac ’n’ cheese. Meat-lovers will never miss the meat in Garden Grille’s tamales, stuffed full of mushrooms and sweet potatoes, with walnuts, quinoa polenta, wilted greens, and cumin-scented tomatoes.
big Tastes Hide in little Rhody
You’d think that, in an age of instant communication, no flavorful food tidbit would stay unknown for long. Regional specialties often become national staples—think Buffalo wings, Carolina blooming onions, Texas burritos. But Rhode Island’s food specialties remain mysteriously secret. Even residents of neighboring states are in the dark about a lot of them. So while you’re visiting, be sure to check out some of the following:
Stuffies: These come in as many versions as there are cooks. At Flo’s Clam Shack (p. 431), in Newport, big quahog clams are chopped up with hot and sweet peppers and bread crumbs, packed inside the two shell halves, and shut, the whole held together by a rubber band and baked.
Rhode Island clam chowder: This is a potato, onion, and clam (often quahog) soup of clear broth. It’s neither cream-based (such as the well-known New England chowder) nor tomato-based (such as Manhattan chowder).
Coffee milk and cabinets: Obligatory Rhody beverages. Coffee milk is made with milk and sweet coffee syrup (available in any Rhode Island grocery store). Cabinets are what most of the rest of America calls a milkshake (and some parts of New England call a frappe): milk, ice cream, and flavorings such as chocolate syrup.
Johnnycakes: Also spelled jonnycakes, these are breakfast fodder. Sometimes they’re as thin as crepes, sometimes as thick as griddlecakes. Their primary ingredient is cornmeal. Honey is a common topping.
New York System Wieners: These have only a passing acquaintance with Big Apple franks. In Rhode Island, the wieners are served on soft steamed buns and topped (usually) with a chili-type meat sauce, minced sweet onion, and mustard. Try them from Olneyville New York System, 2014 recipient of the James Beard Foundation America’s Classics Award (two Providence locations; see www.olneyvillenewyorksystem.com).
727 East Ave. (at Lafayette St.), Pawtucket. www.gardengrilleri.com. 401/726-2826. No reservations. Main courses $9–15. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm, Sun 11am–9pm. RIPTA bus line 1.
Gracie’s NEW AMERICAN Pin lights in the ceiling hint at the night sky, and white tablecloths and well-spaced tables carry out the romantic theme. The menu changes seasonally, but the first course might be house-made potato gnocchi or crispy veal sweetbreads with wild leeks. Carnivores will be more than sated by the lamb duo with bok choy, green garlic panisse, and beech mushrooms. Prix-fixe menus of three, five, seven, and nine courses are available with appropriate wine pairings.
194 Washington St. (1 block from Empire St.). www.graciesprov.com. 401/272-7811. Reservations advised. Main courses $26–$39; 3-course prix fixe $50. Tues–Sat 5–10pm.
Siena ITALIAN Federal Hill’s days as a tomato gravy and pizza destination are fading, replaced by upbeat, contemporary chefs and owners who value quality and are alert to trends. Promising “Tuscan Soul Food,” Siena draws all ages (including an occasional shrieking child). Waitstaff is patient and more knowledgeable and attentive than average. Antipasti and thin, wood-grilled, upscale pizzas may distract your attention from the rest of the card, but give full consideration to the pollo al diavolo, chicken breasts
WaterFire events, p. 431.) Unlike some of its competitors, Cafe Nuovo takes reservations, is open for lunch and dinner, and impresses with every course, from dazzling appetizers to stunning pastries. The fare skips lightly among inspirations—Greek, Portuguese, and Japanese among them.
