flavor to many dishes. It has slender white stalks with dark green strap-like leaves.
SEAWEED Used extensively in Japan. Dark green dried kelp or konbu is an essential ingredient in basic stock or dashi. It is sold in packets. Wipe clean with a damp cloth but do not soak before using. Other varieties include a fine golden kelp (shiraita konbu), mozuku, which are hair-like shreds, small squares of salted dried kelp (shio-kobu). and laver (nori), which is dried and sold in very thin, dark green sheets. Wakame is sold either dried or in salted form in plastic bags. Reconstitute by soaking in water.
SESAME Both black and white sesame seeds, the latter more commono are used in Japanese cooking. White sesame seeds are toasted and crushed to make a paste; if you don't want to do this yourself, you can buy either a Chinese or Japanese brand of sesame paste. Middle-Eastern tahina has a slightly different flavor as the sesame seeds are not toasted.
SESAME OIL Added to some Chinese dishes-usually at the last minute-for its fragrance and flavor, but never used on its own as a frying medium.
SESAME RICE CRACKERS Thin crackers made from rice flour sprinkled with sesame seeds. Grill or lightly bake before serving, and use like a cracker for dipping. Prawn crackers or puffed rice crackers may be used as a substitute.
SEVEN-SPICE POWDER A mixture of different spices and flavors, shichimi contains sansho, ground chilies, hemp seeds, dried orange peel, nori flakes, white sesame seeds and white poppy seeds. Shichimi togarashi contains chili. Both are available in bottles in Japanese stores.
SHALLOTS Small, round and pinkish-purple, shallots add a sweet onion flavor to sambals and curries. Packets of deep-fried shallots are generally available in Asian supply stores. If they lose their crispness, scatter in a large baking dish and put in a very low oven for a few moments to dry thoroughly. Cool before storing. Indonesian shallots are smaller and milder than those found in many Western countries.
SHARK'S FIN Transparent threads of dried shark's fin (generally sold in packets) are highly valued for their gelatinous texture and added to soups or sometimes cooked with egg. Soak in boiling water for about 30 minutes to soften before use. Shark's fin is also available canned.
SHISO The tangy, attractive green leaves of the Perilla frutescens or beefsteak plant, related to the mint family, are a common garnish in Japan. There is no substitute for the flavor of shiso leaf. The flower is often used as a garnish, and the tiny seeds for cooking. If the seeds are not available, omit as there is no good substitute.
SHRIMP PASTE Known variously as kapi, trasi, and belacan. A dense mixture of fermented, ground shrimp used extensively in Southeast Asian cooking. There are many different types, ranging in color from pink to blackish-brown. The former is good for curry pastes, the latter for making dipping sauces. Shrimp paste should be cooked before eating; if the recipe you are using does not call for it to be fried together with other ingredients, either grill or dry-fry the shrimp paste before pounding. To grill, wrap a piece of the paste in a piece of foil and toast under a grill or dry-fry in a pan for about 2 minutes on each side.
SHRIMP SAUCE, BLACK A very thick syrupy paste, usually sold in jars or plastic tubs, with a strong shrimp flavor. It is commonly added to rojak. a fruit and vegetable salad, and Penang laksa.
SHRIMPS, DRIED Small dried shrimps or prawns are a popular seasoning in many Asian dishes, particularly in sauces, condiments (sambals), and vegetable dishes. Choose dried shrimps that are bright pink in color, and soak in warm water for about 5 minutes to soften before use.
SICHUAN PEPPER A round, reddish-brown berry with a pronounced fragrance and flavor, used primarily in Sichuan cuisine and as an ingredient in five-spice powder. It is also known as prickly ash or fagara, and often sold powdered under the Japanese name sansho.
SOUR PLUMS Salty pickled plums (umeboshi) are very popular with plain rice for breakfast in Japan, as they are believed to aid digestion. These dull-red plums are available in jars, and should be refrigerated after opening.
SOY SAUCE Three types are used in Chinese cooking. Light soy sauce is thinner, lighter in color and saltier than black soy sauce. which is often added to give a dark coloring to a dish. Delicately flavored red soy sauce is seldom used and can be substituted with light soy sauce.
For Japanese food, use the Kikkoman brand. Tamari is very strong, thick and black and available from Japanese stores; dark soy sauce is a reasonable substitute.
In Indonesia. thick sweet soy sauce (kemp manis) is most frequently used as a condiment, followed by the thinner, saltier light soy sauce (kemp asin). If you cannot obtain kemp manis, use thick black Chinese soy sauce and sweeten with brown sugar.
SPRING ONION See SCALLION.
STAR ANISE A sweet-smelling star-shaped, eight-pointed pod with a pungent flavor of aniseed or licorice. Frequently used in soups.
STARFRUIT A star-shaped fruit, eaten raw and finely sliced. Young starfruit has a tart taste and is often served on the Vietnamese vegetable platter as a complement to grilled or fried foods.
SUGAR CANE Fresh sugar cane juice-extracted from the stalks by a crushing machine-is a very popular drink in Vietnam. In addition to the familiar uses of sugar cane, the peeled stalks are also used as skewers in cooking.
TAMARIND A large, brown pod with several seeds, tamarind has a tangy, acidic taste, and is a popular sour flavoring. It can be bought fresh, dried or in pulp form, and is most commonly sold in compressed blocks, with the seeds removed. The paste is used in hot and sour soups, and fresh crab dishes. To make tamarind juice, add 1 part pulp to 3 parts hot water for 5 minutes before squeezing to extract the juice. Discard the seeds and fibrous matter before using.
TAPIOCA The root of this plant (also known as cassava) and the tender green leaves are both eaten, though the leaves have to be cooked for at least an hour to remove the mild toxins. The root is grated and mixed with coconut and sugar to make sweetmeats. Fermented tapioca root is added to some desserts, while the dried root is made into small balls and used in the same way as pearl sago. Substitute spinach for tapioca leaves.
TAPIOCA STARCH Used as a thickening agent, and sometimes in the making of fresh rice papers. Combined with rice flour, it adds a translucent sheen and chewiness to pastries. Available in many Asian food markets.
TARO A barrel-shaped oval root, with hairy, brown skin and white flesh with purple-brown fibers, which can be used like a potato in soups. The tubers are best eaten when the fibers are small and barely noticeable.
TEMPEH Cakes of compressed, lightly fermented soy beans with a nutty flavor. Often available in health food stores. No substitute.
TURMERIC A bright yellow-orange tuber from the ginger family, turmeric is often used in curries and as a coloring agent. It is also used for medicinal purposes. Peel before using. Substitute ½ teaspoon turmeric powder for ½ in (1 cm) fresh.
VIETNAMESE MINT: see DAUN KESUM
VINEGAR Black, red and white Chinese vinegars are all made from rice, and as the flavor differs, be sure to use the
