The Food of Asia. Kong Foong Ling

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The Food of Asia - Kong Foong Ling

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      CANDLENUT A waxy, cream-colored nut similar in size and shape to a macadamia, which can be used as a substitute (although less expensive almonds or cashews will also do). It is ground and used to add texture and a faint flavor to Malay and Nonya dishes. Do not eat raw. Store in the fridge.

      CARAMBOLA A pale-green acidic fruit about 2-3 in (5-8 cm) long that grows in clusters. A relative of the starfruit, carambola is used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to soups, curries, fish dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit juice or tamarind juice are good substitutes.

      CARDAMOM About 15-20 intensely fragrant brown-black seeds are enclosed in a straw-colored pod. Try to buy the whole pod rather than seeds or powder for maximum flavor. Bruise lightly with the back of a cleaver to break the pod. More common are small, greenish or straw-colored pods containing a dozen or so tiny, intensely aromatic black seeds. Large black cardamom pods, which are at least six times the size of the green, are used in some northern Indian dishes.

      CAROM Carum ajowan comes from the same family as cumin and parsley. Known as carom or bishop's weed in the West, it is called ajwain in India. The flavor is similar to caraway with overtones of thyme.

      CATERPILLAR FUNGUS Neither a caterpillar nor a fungus, these dried pods (Cordyceps sinensis) are used in Chinese dishes for their medicinal value.

      CELERY The celery used in Asia is much smaller than the Western variety, with slender stems and particularly pungent leaves. Often known as "Chinese celery" and used as a herb rather than vegetable, it is added to soups, rice dishes and stir-fries. Substitute with regular celery leaves.

      CENTURY EGGS Duck eggs coated with a mixture of powdered lime; rice husks and salt and left to cure for several months. To use, peel off the shell and quarter or chop the eggs, which have a translucent black albumen and greenish-grey yolk.

      CHILI Many different varieties of chilies are used in Asia. The flavor of fresh and dried chilies is different, so be sure to use the type specified in the recipes. Large, finger-length green (unripe) and red (ripe) chilies are usually moderately hot.

      In India chilies are used fresh only in their unripe green state. The majority of ripe red chilies are dried and a large percentage ground to make chili powder. Cut or break dried chilies into pieces and soak in hot water for about 10 minutes to soften before grinding or blending. If you want to reduce the heat without losing flavor, discard some or all of the seeds.

      The main types of chili used in Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia include the normal finger-length red or green chili; tiny but fiery-hot bird's-eye chilies (which may be red, green or yellowy-orange) and dried red chilies. Be careful to wash your hands thoroughly after handling chilies-use rubber gloves if possible.

      CHILI OIL Dried chilies or chili powder steeped in oil, used to enliven some Sichuan dishes.

      CHILI PASTE Pounded chilies, sometimes mixed with vinegar, sold in jars. The heat varies from brand to brand. Sichuan chili paste is made from dried chilies, soaked and ground with a touch of oil.

      CHILI POWDER Made from finely ground dried chilies. Do not confuse with American chili powder, which is a blend of a variety of seasonings.

      CHILI SAUCE Chilies mixed with water and seasoned with salt, garlic, sugar, and vinegar, sold in bottles and jars. Some sauces are sweeter than others, and others may have added flavorings like garlic or ginger.

      CHINESE CABBAGE The three most common types are white cabbage (bai cai or in Cantonese, bok choy), which has white stems and bright green leaves and is often sold in immature form; long white or "celery" cabbage, which has long pale green leaves and white celery-like stems; and round cabbage.

      CHINESE RICE WINE Wine made from fermented rice used in cooking. Wine from Shaoxing, generally considered the best, is available from Chinese food stores. Dry sherry is a substitute.

      CHINESE SAUSAGES Thin, sweet Chinese pork sausages that are delicately perfumed with rice wine. Used as a seasoning rather than eaten on their own. They will keep almost indefinitely without refrigeration.

      CHIRONJI NUTS Small brownish nuts that look a little like large sunflower seeds, sometimes ground with other nuts, such as cashews or almonds, or with white poppy seeds to enrich some dishes. The flavor is similar to that of hazelnuts. Substitute with a mixture of hazelnuts and almonds.

      CHIVES "Chinese", "coarse" or "garlic" chives have dark green flat leaves about 12 in (30 cm) long. They are used as a vegetable and as a herb. The flavor is stronger than normal chives.

      CHOKO An oval-shaped squash that looks like a light green cucumber, with a small white seed inside. Peel before using as a vegetable. Zucchini is a substitute.

      CHRYSANTHEMUM LEAVES Enjoyed as a vegetable for their distinctive flavor and bright green color. Spinach leaves can be used as a substitute.

      CILANTRO See CORIANDER.

      CINNAMON True cinnamon comes from the fragrant bark of a tree native to Sri Lanka, and is lighter in color, thinner and more expensive than cassia bark, which is often sold as cinnamon. Powdered cinnamon is not a substitute.

      CLOUD EAR FUNGUS Sometimes known as wood fungus, this crinkly greyish-brown dried fungus swells to many times its original size after soaking in warm water for a few minutes. They have little flavor but are prized for their texture.

      CLOVES A small, brown, nail-shaped spice that emits a floral, spicy fragrance. Used in spice blends.

      COCONUT Widely used in Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Philippines, and Indonesia, not just for cooking but also for palm sugar, alcohol, housing, utensils, and charcoal. The grated flesh is often added to food; it is also squeezed with water to make coconut milk. To make fresh coconut milk, put the flesh of a grated coconut into a bowl and add ½ cup lukewarm water. Squeeze and knead for 1 minute, then squeeze handful by handful, straining into a bowl to obtain thick milk. Repeat the process with another 2½ cups of water to obtain thin milk. Combine both lots of milk for the coconut milk called for in this book, unless thick milk is specified. Coconut milk can be frozen; thaw and stir thoroughly before use.

      The best substitute for fresh coconut milk is instant coconut powder, sometimes sold under the name "santan". Follow the instructions on the packet. Use tinned coconut cream for desserts and cakes.

      CORIANDER Widely used in Asian cooking. Thais use the whole coriander plant: leaves, seeds, and roots. The roots are pounded together with garlic and black pepper to make a common basic seasoning. The seeds are roasted and ground for spice blends, and the leaves, known as cilantro or Chinese parsley, are eaten as a vegetable or used as a herb.

      CORNFLOUR Known also as cornstarch, this fine white powder is widely used to thicken sauces. Mix cornflour with water, stir and add to the pan. Cook, stirring constantly for a few seconds, until the sauce thickens.

      CUCUMBER Japanese cucumbers are short, roughly 1 in (2½ cm) in diameter, and have a sweeter flavor

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