is zedoary. Kencur has a unique, camphor-like flavor, so use sparingly. Wash and scrape off the skin before using. Dried sliced kencur (sometimes spelled kentjoer) or kencur powder are substitutes. Soak dried slices in boiling water for 30 minutes; use ½-1 teaspoon of powder for 2.5 cm (1 in) fresh root.
KINOME Their refreshing, minty taste makes the leaves of the prickly ash a popular garnish. Available in Japanese stores, they will keep refrigerated for about 1 week, or use watercress.
KRACHAI This rhizome, sometimes referred to as "lesser ginger", looks like a bunch of yellowish-brown fingers. Enjoyed for its mild flavor and crunchy texture. Dried krachai is a poor substitute; omit if the fresh is unavailable.
KRUPUK Also known as prawn crackers, these dried wafers made from tapioca flour, prawns or fish are a popular snack and garnish. Dry thoroughly and deep-fry in oil until they puff up and become crisp.
LADIES' FINGERS See OKRA.
LAKSA LEAF See DAUN KESUM
LEMONGRASS A lemon-scented plant that grows in clumps. Use only the bottom 2-4 in (5-10 cm) portion. If it is to be pounded or blended to a paste, discard the outer leaves and use only the pale, tender part. Or bruise the stem before adding to stews. Also available in fresh, frozen, dried and powdered form. About 1 teaspoon powdered equals one stalk.
LILY BUDS, DRIED The Chinese call these "golden needles" because they are thin and golden in color. They are usually knotted for a neater appearance and added to Chinese and Burmese soups or vegetable dishes. No substitute.
LIME Various types are used. Large limes are about the size of a small egg with a greenish-yellow skin, and have a tart flavor similar to lemons. Small green limes, frequently known as kalamansi, are about the size of a walnut and have a less acidic, more fragrant juice. These are preferred for squeezing over noodle dishes and into sambals. See also KAFFIR LIME.
LOOFAH A gourd with an earthy flavor, often used in Vietnamese soups. Any type of gourd can be substituted.
LOTUS The tumescent root has a delicious crunchy texture and decorative appearance when sliced, making it a popular vegetable and garnish in Japanese and Chinese cooking. Its seeds are used fresh for sweets or dried in stews. Soak dried lotus nuts in boiling water for 1 hour, peel, and poke out the central core with a thin skewer or toothpick. (Canned lotus nuts normally have this core already removed.)
MACE The lacy orange-red covering or aril of the nutmeg seed. Used in spice mixes and garam masala for flavoring sweet and savory dishes. For maximum flavor, grind as required.
MINT Peppermint and spearmint are often used in salads and as flavor accents. See also DAUN KESUM.
MIOGA BUD This pretty pale pink bud with green tips, a member of the ginger family, is used for its spicy flavor and appearance in some Japanese dishes. No substitute.
MIRIN A bottled sweet rice wine used in Japanese cooking. If mirin is not available, use 1 teaspoon sugar as a substitute for 1 tablespoon mirin.
MISO A protein-rich salty paste of fermented soya beans, the mainstay of Japanese soups. Many different types are available, varying in taste, texture, color and fragrance. The most common are red miso, which has a reddish-brown color and an emphatic flavor, and white miso, which is actually golden-yellow in color, has a lighter flavor and is less salty than the red variety, making it ideal for soups and dressings. Plastic bags or tubs of miso are generally sold in Japanese or health-food stores.
MITSUBA Both the stems and leaves of this decorative herb, a member of the parsley family, are used in Japanese cuisine. Parsley makes an acceptable substitute, although the flavor of mitsuba is more like celery.
MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG) Some cooks in Asia make use of this taste enhancer. If you use only top quality ingredients, there should be no need for MSG.
MORNING GLORY See WATER CONVOLVULUS
MUNG BEANS Husked, dried green mung beans are known as yellow mung beans. Sprouted beans have a subtle flavor and a slight crunchiness. In Vietnam, yellow beans are used to make yellow bean sauce or other sauces. The starch from the beans is processed into cellophane noodles.
MUSHROOMS DRIED Black (shiitake) mushrooms are prized in Japanese and Chinese cooking for their flavor and texture. Soak in warm water for 15-20 minutes before use and discard the fibrous stems. Do not substitute with European dried mushrooms. Fresh shiitake are increasingly available outside Asia.
Fresh and delicate sheathed straw mushrooms are excellent in soups and vegetable dishes. Button mushrooms and the large, bland oyster variety are good for stir-frying. Golden mushrooms (enokitaiki), clusters of slender cream-colored stalks with tiny caps, are available fresh and tinned-discard the tough ends before use.
Reddish-brown nameko mushrooms have a slippery texture and attractive reddish-brown cap; they are more commonly found in jars or tins. See also CLOUD EAR FUNGUS.
MUSTARD OIL Oil made from ground mustard seeds is used as a cooking medium in some parts of India, particularly in Bengal. The oil gives a distinctive flavor to the food and is worth looking for in Indian grocery stores. Substitute any refined, flavorless vegetable oil.
MUSTARD SEEDS Both yellow and brownish-black mustard seeds are used in Indian cuisine. They are not interchangeable.
NIGELLA Often referred to as onion seeds, these small, black seeds are known as kalonji in India. Omit if not available. If specified for Indian breads, substitute with black sesame seeds.
NOODLES Both fresh and dried noodles made from either wheat flour, rice flour or mung bean flour are used in Asian cooking. The most popular types are fresh yellow or "Hokkien" noodles, spaghetti-like noodles made from flour and egg; dried wheat-flour noodles, plunged into boiling water to soften; fresh flat rice-flour noodles, ribbon-like noodles about 1 cm (½ in) wide, used in soups or fried; fresh laksa noodles, which look like white spaghetti; dried rice-flour vermicelli, sometimes known as rice-stick noodles; and dried mung bean noodles, generally used in soups and sometimes referred to as "glass", "jelly" or "transparent" noodles.
In Japan the wheat noodle, udon, comes in various widths and is either flat or round. Packets of dried udon, whitish-beige in color, are readily available in Japanese stores. Somen are also made from wheat, but are very fine and white in color. Soba are made from buckwheat, and are sometimes flavored with green tea. Devil's tongue is used to make shirataki konnyaku-soak in hot water until they swell and become transparent.
NORI See SEAWEED
NUTMEG A native of the Moluccan islands, the nutmeg is actually the seed of a fleshy fruit. Try to purchase whole if possible and grate as required.
OIL, COOKING Blended vegetable oils (never olive oil) are used by Chinese cooks for frying. Peanut oil is sometimes specified for its distinctive flavor.
OKRA A green, ridged vegetable
