and better texture than large cucumbers. Lebanese cucumbers are an ideal substitute.
CUMIN Pale brown to black fragrant seeds that look similar to caraway. Frequently partnered with coriander in spice mixtures and curry pastes.
CURRY LEAF Sprigs of these small, dark green leaves with a distinctive fragrance are often used in Indian curries. A sprig is about 8-12 individual leaves. Dried curry leaves are milder, but a more satisfactory substitute than daun salam or bay leaves.
CURRY POWDER Various spices are ground together to form curry powders. Certain spice combinations are appropriate to different basic foods, and curry powders labelled "fish", "chicken" and other more specific dishes such as "korma" or "rendang" should be used for that particular purpose only. Curry powders are often blended with water to a stiff paste before being fried. For maximum freshness, store in a jar in the freezer.
DAIKON: see RADISH, GIANT WHITE
DAL Also "dhal". Refers to dried legumes, usually husked and split. Varieties include channa dal or Bengal gram, which resembles a small yellow pea and is often sold split; moong dal, a small green pea; urad dal or blackgram dal, which is sold either with its black skin still on or husked; masoor dal (salmon-pink lentils); toor, tuvar or arhar dal, a pale yellow lentil which is smaller than the Bengal gram; and kabuli channa or chickpeas, also known as garbanzos.
DASHI A stock made from dried kelp and dried bonito flakes, the basis of Japanese soups and sauces. Instant dashi granules (dashi-no-moto) are sold in glass jars in Japanese stores.
DAUN KESUM This pungent herb (Polygonum hydropiper) has long, pointed green leaves tinged with purple. Used in Vietnamese table salads and other Asian dishes.
DEVIL'S TONGUE A greyish-brown mass made from a starchy root known as devil's tongue (konnyaku). It is sold in plastic packets and used in Japanese soups, one-pot cookery and to make noodles called shirataki konnyaku. Keep refrigerated.
DRIED MANGO POWDER Dried and ground unripe mangoes, used to give a sour tang to some Indian dishes. If unavailable, use a squeeze of lemon juice.
FENNEL Only the seeds are used in Asian cooking. The spice smells of aniseed, and looks like a larger, paler version of cumin. Used to add a sweet fragrance to Malay and Indian dishes.
FENUGREEK These almost square, hard yellowish-brown seeds are strongly flavored and generally used whole in southern Indian dishes and frequently in pickles and fish curries. Fenugreek leaves are eaten as a vegetable and because of their rather bitter taste, are combined with other greens or potatoes. Substitute with spinach if fenugreek leaves are not available. The dried leaves (methi) are sometimes used as a seasoning.
FISH SAUCE The distinctive nam pla, made from salted, fermented fish or prawns, is used in Thai and Vietnamese marinades, dressings and dipping sauces. Good quality nam pla is golden-brown in color and has a salty, pungent flavor.
FIVE-SPICE POWDER A Chinese spice combination of star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, fennel, cloves and cinnamon. A very strong seasoning, so use in small amounts.
GALANGAL A member of the ginger family, used in Thai, Malay and Nonya dishes. Peel off the tough skin before pounding or slicing. The young, pinkish galangal is the most tender and imparts the best flavor. Slices of dried galangal (sometimes sold under the Indonesian name, laos) must be soaked in boiling water for about 30 minutes until soft before use. Jars of tender, sliced galangal packed in water from Thailand make an adequate substitute for the fresh root. As a last resort, use the powdered form (1 teaspoon = 2.5 cm/1 in).
GALAN GAL, LESSER A white, ginger-like rhizome believed to have medicinal properties. Do not confuse with the fragrant greater galangal used in Southeast Asia. Omit if unavailable.
GARAM MASALA An Indian blend of several strongly aromatic spices designed to add flavor and fragrance to meat dishes. Powdered garam masala can be bought from stores specialising in spices. Store in a jar in the freezer.
GARLIC Widely used as a flavoring and for its medicinal qualities. It is often pounded or puréed before use in curries. Garlic cloves are often much smaller in Southeast Asia than in Western countries, so adjust to taste.
GINGELLY OIL A light oil made from unroasted sesame seeds, quite different in flavor from Chinese sesame oil. It adds a distinctive touch to Indian pickles.
GINGER This pale, creamy yellow root is widely used not just to season food but for its medicinal properties. Always scrape the skin off fresh ginger before using, and do not substitute the powdered. Store in a cool, dark place. To make ginger juice, finely grate about 8 cm (3 in) fresh ginger. Squeeze it little by little in a garlic press, or wrap in cheesecloth and squeeze to extract the juice. Depending on the age of the ginger (young ginger is far more juicy), you will obtain 1-2 tablespoons of juice. Pickled ginger (benishoga or gari), sometimes dyed red, is sold in jars and widely used as a garnish. Slender pink young ginger shoots are also pickled and sold in jars.
GINSENG A highly prized medicinal root, sometimes used in cooking. Available from Chinese medicine shops.
GREEN PEPPER, JAPANESE Tiny slender green peppers which have none of the spiciness of green chilies. Eight japanese peppers are the equivalent of a green capsicum. The latter is closer in taste to Japanese peppers and makes a better substitute than seeded green chilies.
HOISIN SAUCE A sweet sauce made of soya beans, with spicy and garlicky overtones. Used to season meat and served as a dipping sauce. Refrigerate the jar after opening.
HORSERADISH See WASABI
IKAN BILIS See ANCHOVIES, DRIED
JACKFRUIT A large, green fruit with a tough, knobbly skin. The segmented flesh is sweet and perfumed when ripe. In Vietnam, young jackfruit, which is whitish in color, is used as a vegetable.
JAGGERY A crude sugar popular in Sri Lankan cookery most commonly made from cane sugar and the sap of coconut or palmyrah palms. Southeast Asian palm sugar makes an acceptable substitute, or use soft brown sugar.
JASMINE ESSENCE The heady perfume of fresh jasmine flowers, soaked overnight in water, adds a unique fragrance to many Thai desserts and cakes. Substitute bottled jasmine essence.
KAFFIR LIME Also known as fragrant lime, this citrus fruit has intensely fragrant skin but virtually no juice. The grated skin or rind is added to food, while the fragrant leaves are used whole in soups and curries, or shredded finely and added to salads. Round yellow-skinned limes slightly larger than a golf ball (jeruk nipis) and small, dark green limes (jeruk limau) are used in Indonesia and Malaysia for their juice. Use lemons if limes are unavailable.
KALE Known also as gai Ian, this vegetable is enjoyed for its firm texture and emphatic flavor. Only the leaves and tender portions of the stems are eaten. Peel and halve lengthwise if they are thick. Broccoli stems are a good substitute.
KANGKONG See WATER CONVOLVULUS.
KELP See SEAWEED
KENARI A soft, oily nut found in Maluku; the almond is the closest substitute.
KENCUR Kaemferia galanga is sometimes incorrectly known as lesser galangal; the correct English
