the enzyme tyrosinase in UVB‐irradiated dermal cells of guinea pig and inhibit melanogenesis in UVB‐irradiated mice. Oral treatment of fucoxanthin has been found to downregulate the skin m‐RNA expression associated with melanin production [117].
4.4.5.8 Zeaxanthin
The xanthophyll cycle is involved in the removal and addition of epoxy group from xanthophyll. The zeaxanthin is the product of a de‐epoxidized xanthophylls and has known to be involved in a photoprotective role and as an antioxidant. Although zeaxanthin was primarily known to be isolated from Zea maize, they are also found to be present in algae as well. Zeaxanthin is known to inhibit tyrosinase enzyme averting hyperskin pigmentation, thereby acting as a skin whitening agent. The pure extract of Nannochloropsis oculata, which contains zeaxanthin, as an antityrosinase substance [148]. Lutein‐ and zeaxanthin‐containing creams (Lutemax® 2020) are known to promote skin lightening and improve skin health conditions [149].
4.4.5.9 Violaxanthin
Violaxanthin is an orange‐colored, natural xanthophyll pigment occurring in a variety of algae and land plants. Violaxanthin pigments are biosynthesized from its precursor zeaxanthin by undergoing epoxidation carried out by de‐epoxidase enzyme. It is approved as a food additive coloring agent and only in countries like Australia and New Zealand (INS number 161e). Violaxanthin extract from microalgae Nannochloropsis oceanica has shown to reduce skin photoaging, induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation in HDF [150].
Figure 4.5 Important secondary metabolites and mycosporine‐like amino acids from algae used in cosmetic applications.
4.4.6 Secondary Metabolites
Various secondary metabolites are known to obtain from algae and are formulated in cosmetic products. Phlorotanins derived from algae Eisenia bicyclis, Ecklonia cava are proved to benefit the skin by reducing the elastase activity significantly. Mycosporine‐like amino acids (MAAs) such as scytonemin, asterina‐330, shinorine, and palythine are well‐known UV‐protective compounds, found in most of the algal and cyanobacterial species and widely used as photoaging protectant [79,122–124, 141] (Figure 4.5).
4.5 Conclusions and Perspectives
Skin aging is linked with the many complex factors like geographical, environmental, physical, and molecular factors. Skin aging is a natural process connected with the aging of any life forms. However, factors like environmental, molecular, and geographical have a significant impact on the process of skin aging. Most of the scientific reports suggest the role of compounds like antioxidants, vitamins, and enzymes in keeping the skin to rejuvenate for a longer period. The increasing awareness about the toxic effects of chemical compounds has augmented a sharp rise in demand for biological and natural compounds. With the current demand, most cosmetic companies are focusing on biological compounds due to their easy extraction, higher yields, low space and maintenance requirements, and cheap raw materials. In the future, biotechnology and microbial diversity will play a lead role in the production of novel commercially important cosmetic compounds.
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