Kingitud maitsed. Evelin Ilves
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Tarte flambée alsacienne
Tarte flambée alsacienne or Alsatian onion and bacon tart
“Alsatian villages are truly magical at Christmas time, and the cuisine there is the world’s best,” my girlfriend, who lives in Strasbourg, said one December morning, and suggested we visit a small porcelain factory near the border. There, one could peek into the factory and exchange a few words with the women who hand painted the dishes. Afterwards, we could enjoy lunch at an ancient village sheltered, like a pearl, between the fields. The name of the small place where we stopped was Riquewihr. We had to park the car on the edge of the small town, because the streets were so narrow that it was easier to walk – an authentic medieval environment. Every respectable eatery served the local speciality, which was unknown to me at the time – tarte flambée. And the fact that the best things in the world are usually the simplest was proven that time by the Riquewihr chef, when we asked him for the secret to this salty delicacy.
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DOUGH
150 ML WATER
2 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
½ TSP GROUND SEA SALT
½ TSP WHITE SUGAR
250 G WHEAT FLOUR (YOU CAN ADD ⅓ WHOLE-GRAIN SPELTA)
15 G FRESH YEAST OR 1 PACKAGE OF DRY YEAST
FILLING
200 G SMOKED BACON
3 ONIONS, CHOPPED
200 G THICK SOUR CREAM
200 G UNFLAVOURED CREAM CHEESE
GROUND SEA SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
For the dough, rub the yeast into a smooth mass with a little lukewarm water and sugar; add the remaining water, salt and oil. Sift in the flour and knead into thick dough. This should take about 5 minutes. Cover with a towel and set aside in a warm place to rise.
Stir the room-temperature cream cheese and the sour cream into a uniform cream using a hand whisk. Season with salt and pepper. Cut the bacon into strips about 3 cm long. Chop the onion.
Roll out the dough until it is very thin, almost transparent. Place on a baking pan that is covered with baking paper. Spread the cream cheese mixture evenly and quickly onto the dough. Sprinkle on the bacon strips and onion. Bake in a preheated over at 180 ºC for about 15 to 20 minutes – until the dough is crisp and golden.
Depending on the season, garnish with fresh thyme, dandelion or marigold petals. Serve with a green salad. This tart is just as addictive as good Italian pizza!
⇒ You can filter the sour cream for an hour through a coffee filter to thicken it. The chef in Riquewihr used 30 % sour cream.
⇒ Avoid diet cream cheeses, they crumble and ruin the dish. Use fresh and natural raw ingredients. If you like, choose a flavoured cream cheese.
Crêpes elik pitsilised ülepannikoogid
Minul ei tulnud krepid ilmaski õiged välja. Elastsed, õhukesed ja pitsiliste servadega koogid aga on üks parimaid toite, mida võiks pühapäevasteks perehommikuteks lauale võluda. Anne Labrosse1 kergitas saladuskatte oma retseptilt ja mõnelt kasulikult nipilt. Näiteks soovitas ta suus sulava krõbeduse saavutamiseks asendada pool retseptis märgitud piimakogusest apelsinimahlaga.
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650 ML PIIMA
200 ML KOORT (10 % VÕI 35 %)
4 MUNA
2 SPL HELEDAT SUHKRUT
NÄPUGA MERESOOLA
250 G NISUJAHU
2 SPL SULAVÕID
SOOVI KORRAL VANILLI, KANEELI, SIDRUNIÕLI
Sega kausis jahu soola ja suhkruga läbi, lisa kolmandik piimast ja munad, sega korralikult (võid lasta ka köögikombainil segada). Lisa ülejäänud piim, koor, sulavõi ja maitseained. Pane vähemalt tunniks külma.
Määri pann võiga ja lase kuumeneda. Tõsta kulbiga tainast pannile ja kalluta ringikujuliselt, et see kataks õhkõhukese kihina terve põhja. Õige pööramisaeg on käes, kui üle terve koogi tulevad väiksed õhumullid – see võtab 1–2 minutit. Hopp! Võid oma hõrgutise pipilikult lakke suunata. Maaläheduse armastajad piirduvad laia pannilabidaga. Lao koogid kuumale taldrikule. Selleks võid taldriku kuuma vee anumale asetada.
Serveeri moosi, vahtrasiirupi, kohupiimakreemi või hoopis toorjuustuga. Mmm!
⇒ Tee pannkoogitainas eelmisel õhtul valmis ja pane külma, siis on jahu hommikuks kindlasti ideaalselt paisunud.
⇒ Enne küpsetamist võid mis tahes pannkoogitainale lisada tilga Vana Tallinnat või Grand Marnier’d – see võimendab häid aroome ja kõik mõistatavad, miks just sinu pannkoogid eriti hõrgud on.
Crêpes or large crisp pancakes
Crepes never turn out right for me. However, these elastic and thin pancakes, with crinkly edges, are one of the best dishes to conjure up for a Sunday family breakfast. Anne Labrosse2 revealed the secrets of her recipe and added some helpful hints. For instance, for achieving mouth-watering crispiness, replace half the amount of milk specified in the recipe with apple juice.
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650 ML MILK
200 ML CREAM (10 % OR 35 %)
4 EGGS
2 TBSP WHITE SUGAR
PINCH OF GROUND SEA SALT
250 G WHEAT FLOUR
2 TBSP MELTED BUTTER
1
Anne Labrosse on Prantsuse Vabariigi suursaadiku Eestis (2006–2009) Daniel Labrosse’i abikaasa.
2
Anne Labrosse is the wife of Daniel Labrosse, who was the French Ambassador to Estonia from 2006 to 2009.