Kingitud maitsed. Evelin Ilves
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500 G LEHTTAINAST – JUHUL KUI LEIATE EHTSA VÕIGA TEHTU!
ALTERNATIIV LEHTTAINALE: KRÕBEDAD PÕHJAD
5 DL JAHU
250 G VÕID
200 G HAPUKOORT
NÄPUOTSAGA SOOLA
NÄPUOTSAGA SUHKRUT
CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE ELIK KEEDUKREEM
1 L PIIMA
40 G VÕID
5 VANILLIKAUNA
7 MUNAKOLLAST
200 G PEENT TUHKSUHKRUT
20 G NISUJAHU
80 G POUDRE Á CRÈME (VÕIB ASENDADA MAISIJAHUGA)
TILGAKE KONJAKIT
KOKKU 1700 G
IGA 500 G CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE’I KOHTA VÕTA 400–500 G CRÈME MI-MONTÉE’D (MEIL: VAHUKOOR 35 %).
Taina valmistamiseks pane jahu, suhkur ja sool kaussi, lisa tükeldatud külm või ja hapukoor. Näpi sõrmedega ühtlane tainas ja pane vähemalt tunniks külma. Siis jaga tainas 10 osaks, igaühest tuleb üks kiht. Rulli õhukeseks ja lõika ühesuurused ruudud või ringid. Küpseta iga põhja eraldi 5–6 minutit umbes 220 °C juures. Lõikamisest jäänud ribad küpseta eraldi, neist saab kaunistamiseks puru. Jahuta põhjad. Valmista kreem.
Crème pâtissière’i (CP) jaoks kuumuta suhkruga segatud piim keemiseni, lisa vanillikaunad, võta tulelt, lase jahtudes maitsestuda. Võta vanillikaunad välja, lõika pikuti pooleks, kraabi noaga seemned välja ja pane piima sisse. Sega munakollased nisujahu ja maisijahuga, lisa natuke piima, et segu oleks kallatav, lisa see pidevalt segades piimale. Kuumuta veevannis piima-muna-jahusegu pidevalt segades paksenemiseni ning jahuta. Vahusta või ja lisa kreemimassile (väikeste koguste puhul sega toasoe või lihtsalt kreemimassile). Jahtunud CP sega kokku vahukoorega. Määri kihtide vahele, peale pudista lõikamisest üle jäänud servad. Suvel kaunista kook võilillede, saialillede, kartuliõite, aedkannikeste või roosiõitega, sügisel aga küpsete viljapeade või astelpajumarjadega. Sobib süüa kohe, krõbedalt, ent iga päevaga läheb ta paremaks ja mahlasemaks. Unelmate kook!
⇒ Lehttaina tegemine on aeganõudev ja töömahukas, L’Obélisque’i kokad tegid seda oma köögis masinatega. Ent kui on aega ja kannatust, tasub ka käsitsitegu ära.
Mille-feuille
Mille-feuille
Mille-feuille or Napoleon cake
If they ever organise a cake Olympics, this cake will, I have absolutely no doubt, reach the podium. Yet, it is the simplest of simple things that make it so delicious – real butter, milk and cream, and stone-ground flour, as well as your heart and your hands. These things always occupy a place of honour when making French pastries and cakes. The fact that confectioners use flour that has been ground at small mills is not regarded as anything special, and substituting butter with margarine is not even discussed. In France, they know that you don’t have to eat a lot, but it must be the best. I’ve never had a mille-feuille like the one that I was served at the L’Obélisque restaurant on the Place de la Concorde in Paris. It took time, and an excellent command of French (thanks to our Cultural Attaché Kersti Kirs!), but finally, Chef Cuisine Jean-François Piège gave us the longed-for recipe.
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500 G FLAKY PASTRY – IF YOU CAN FIND ONE MADE WITH REAL BUTTER!
AN ALTERNATIVE TO FLAKY PASTRY IS A CRISP PASTRY CRUST
5 DL FLOUR
250 G BUTTER
200 G SOUR CREAM
A PINCH OF SALT
A PINCH OF SUGAR
CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE OR CUSTARD
1 LITRE MILK
40 G BUTTER
5 VANILLA BEANS
7 EGG YOLKS
200 G FINE POWDERED SUGAR
20 G WHEAT FLOUR
80 G POUDRE Á CRÈME (CUSTARD POWDER, BUT CORN FLOUR MAY BE SUBSTITUTED)
A DROP OF COGNAC
MAKES 1700 G
FOR EVERY 500 G OF CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE TAKE 400–500 G OF CRÈME MI-MONTÉE (OR 35 % WHIPPING CREAM).
Toprepare the dough, put the flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Add chopped cold butter and sour cream. Form a uniform dough between your fingers and store it in the cold for at least an hour. Then divide the dough into 10 portions; each will become a layer. Roll the dough out very thinly and cut into identical squares or circles. Bake each layer separately, for about 5 or 6 minutes, at about 220 ºC. Separately, bake the strips left over from cutting; they can be used later, when decorating the cake. Cool the layers. Prepare the cream.
For the crème pâtissière, heat the milk mixed with the sugar, until it starts to boil. Add the vanilla beans and remove from the heat. Let the flavour infuse while it cools. Remove the vanilla beans, cut them open lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and put them in the milk. Combine the wheat flour and corn flour and stir into the egg yolks. Add a little milk, so the mixture is pourable. Add the milk while stirring constantly. Heat the milk-egg-flour mixture in a double boiler while stirring constantly. Then cool. Whip the butter and add to the creamy mass (in case of a small amount, just stir the room-temperature butter with the creamy mass). Mix whipped cream into the cooled mixture. Spread between the layers. Crumble the edges left over from cutting and sprinkle on top. In the summer, decorate the cake with dandelion, marigold, potato, pansy or rose petals. In the autumn, with mature heads of grain or sea-buckthorn berries. Can be eaten right away, when it is crisp, but it gets better and more succulent every day. The cake of your dreams!
⇒ Making flaky pastry is time-consuming. The chefs at L’Obélisque used machines. But,